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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



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BY G. FORT. 






PHILADELPHIA: 

237 Dock Street. 
1859. 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1859, by 

G. FORT, 

in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States 

for the Eastern District of Pennsylvania. 






INTRODUOTIVE NOTE TO TAE READER. 

It was once my lot to reside, during seven 
years, in Tangier, on the coast of Africa. Ever 
since my return home numerous friends have 
been urgently requesting me to give them, in 
print, a series of letters, written whilst living 
there. These oft-repeated wishes have at last 
been reluctantly granted, and the letters are 
before you on the following pages. Coos-coo- 
soo is the name of the favorite, national dish 
of the Tangierines, and is composed of several 
different articles. As these letters are descrip- 
tive of the various different races who compose 
the population of Tangier, the name has been 
deemed very appropriate for the title of this 

book by 

The Aut:hor. 



CONTENTS 



Page. 
LETTER I. 

Across THE Ocean.,.. .„. , 9 

LETTER IL 

QUAKANTINE , 13 

LETTER IIL 
A Christmas Day on the Bay 15 

LETTER IV. 
Still on Board ,....,,.. .., ,, 23 

LETTER V. 
Ok Shore , 26 

LETTER VI. 
A First Walk in Europe.. ,. ,..,. 31 

LETTER VIL 
A Walk ON the Rock , 38 

LETTER VIII. 
Departure from the Rock 46 

LETTER IX. 
A Surprise 53 



6 CONTENTS. . 

Page. 
LETTER X. 

Arrival at Tangier. Outer and inner view of the Town... 63 

LETTER XI. 
A First Walk in Africa 70 

LETTER XIL 
An African Fountain and Grave-yard 76 

LETTER Xin. 
A Walk to an African Garden 85 

LETTER XIV. 
Fruit Trees. An African Wat to Milk the Cow 90 

LETTER XV. 
Seedy Sharkey 95 

LETTER XVI. 
Consular Etiquette 98 

LETTER XVII. 
An African Rain. A Famine and its Victims 101 

LETTER XVIII. 
The Flowers. Beggars' Bread. Grave Robber 110 

LETTER XIX. 
Tangier Muedden. Walk on the House-top 116 

LETTER XX. 
A Moorish Betrothal. Coos-coo-soo, and how to make it... 123 

LETTER XXI. 
A Moorish Wedding and the Bride 133 

LETTER XXIL 
Moorish Masonry. Ranks of Society 142 

LETTER XXIII. 
Moorish Houses = ... 147 



CONTENTS. 7 

Page, 
LETTER XXIV. 

Moorish Parlors and Kitchens 151 

LETTER XXV. 
Visit to a Moorish Lady 159 

LETTER XXVI. 
A Moorish Tea Drinking. A Tangier Water Seller. The 

Breach in the Wall 166 

LETTER XXVII. 
Jewish Cemetery. A View of Tangier from the House-top.. 171 

LETTER XXVIII. 
Seedy Sharkey's Life and Wife. Sandhills 180 

LETTER XXIX. 
Moorish Saddles, Bridles and Horseback Riding 190 

LETTER XXX. 
The Renegades. TheHaik. Passports 198 

LETTER XXXI. 
A Jewish Wedding in Tangier 203 

LETTER XXXII. 
The Jewish Wedding Continued. A Rural Morning Ramble. 209 

LETTER XXXIII. 
A Moor's Change op Rank. Cattle Prison. The Cultiva- 
ted Fields. The Castle 218 

LETTER XXXIV. 
Tangier Castle Continued 224 

LETTER XXXV. 
Tangier Castle Continued 231 

LETTER XXXVI. 
Jewish Toll. Moorish Festival 236 



8 CONTENTS. 

Page. 
LETTER XXXVII. 

Festival of the Mouloud. A Flight of Stokks 243 

LETTER XXXVIII. 

A Day at the Lakes 249 

LETTER XXXIX. 
A Day at the Lakes Continued , 258 

LETTER XL. 
A Snail Vender ,.. 262 

LETTER XLI. 
The Eisawys 265 

LETTER XLII. 
Moorish Granaries. Muley Abdrahaman 269 

LETTER XLIII. 
Moorish Snuff Taking 273 

LETTER XLIV. 
Jewish Festival. Lady John Franklin. A Moorish 

Child's Funeral , „.., 277 

■ 

LETTER XLV. 
Canes AND Palmettos. The Date Selier. Ploughing 283 

LETTER XLVL 
Consular Cemetery „ ,„ 287 

LETTER XLVIL 
A Christmas in Africa .., , 289 

LETTER XLVIII. 
A New Year's Day, Departure fr)m Tangier 293 



LETTER I. 

ACROSS THE OCEAN. 

Bay of Gibraltar, Dec. 23 d, 18 — . 

My Dear Friend : 

According to the promise, made at tlie 
time of my departure from America, I now write 
to you, on my arrival in Europe, without wait- 
ing, until my journey is ended, by my landing, 
at Tangier in Africa. 

Our passage across the Atlantic, was stormy 
— but why need any one attempt to describe, 
what you and everybody else know all by heart 
—a trip across the ocean is now so common, 
that all readers know, it is made up of alternate 
sunshine and tempest. That it is diversified, on 
one day, by the view of mountainous waves, 
capped with hoary foam, and on another, by 
seeing the surrounding waters calmly gleaming, 
under the bright rays of an unclouded sun. 

Thus is the voyage, most frequently, a perfect 
type of our journey through life; in which we 
are called to pass through scenes of varying 



10 COOS-COO-SOO; OR LETTERS 

sunshine and darkness — the light of prosperity 
and the shadow of adversity — now a few days 
of peace, quietness and bodily good health- 
then through long nights of sorrow, harassing 
cares, or of suffering sickness. 

That thus it is, we believe to be, as benefi- 
cial, as it is wise. Too much trouble, would 
wear us out. Too much rest and peace, we all 
know, harden the heart. Of the two evils — 
a broken and a hardened heart, our heavenly 
Father, in mercy, love and goodness to our souls, 
sends us the broken one, the most frequently. 
It would be needless, to take up your time, with 
a long and tedious description of our voyage. 
But there was connected with it one little cir- 
cumstance, which will never be forgotten — we 
had a skilful mtisician on board ; he was a com- 
mon sailor, what his name was, or of what place 
he was a native, I know not, even the likeness 
of his face and form was unheeded, all things 
concerning him, were unnoticed by me, except 
the sweet melody of his flute, that is even yet, 
through memory, freshly sounding as it did, 
when he was sitting among the bowsprit-rig- 
ging, and sent to us on the quarter deck, those 
never-to-be-forgotten strains of harmony ! 

Oh, how delightfully its low and soothing 



FEOM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 11 

tones^ floated upon our ears, and seemed to waft 
our enraptured senses into a calm haven of per- 
fect bliss ! 'No, his music will never he for- 
gotten ! 

Even so it is with the mental productions of 
some writers ; they may be unknown, or if ever 
known, they may be entirely forgotten, but if 
they have poured forth from their gifted minds, 
some beautiful and impressive sentiment — it 
lives forever, and becomes dear to the hearts of 
posterity. 

Let us then thank Heaven, for the durability 
of all that is beautiful and worth preserving, in 
the writings of old and long since deceased 
authors. Let us also thank the same Heaven 
for the gift of the art of printing, by means of 
which, that durability is preserved and promul- 
gated. And let us be thankful that in our 
favored land, the press is free, unfettered, and 
imtaxed. 

We arrived at Gibraltar this evening after dark, 
and were obliged to cast anchor at some distance 
from the town, and there await the visit of the 
health officer. Very much we fear we may be 
condemned to a place in quarantine; as the 
health regulations of this port are very rigid. 

The great rock of Gibraltar is said to be seven 



12 COOS-COO-SOO; OE LETTERS 

miles in circumference, and about two and a half 
long, it looks now, as we see it in the darkness 
of a moonless night, like some huge animal, 
crouched in repose but having its side full of 
open and gla&ing red eye-balls. The apparent 
eye-balls, are the town lamps and hghts from 
windows. At nine o'clock a gun was fired, from 
the top of the rock, and its roar came booming 
around us in the bay, like a clap of thunder. 
It reminded us that we were in a warlike, and 
military region where we would have to be care- 
ful of our actions, or we might find ourselves 
shot into, instead of being as we were then, 
only shot over. 

We will sleep but little this night— anxiety 
about the decision of the health ofiicers, will 
prevent our resting well. We have been six 
weeks and some days in our prison of a ship, 
and we are naturally very desirous to leave it, 
as soon as we possibly can. Good night ! My 
first night in Europe. 

Yours affectionately, 

&c., &c. 



FEOM TANGIER IN AFEICA. 13 



LETTER II. 

QTTAKANTINE. 

Gibraltar Bay, Dec. 24th, 1 8 — . 

My Dear Friend : 

This morning we arose very early. At 
about 8 o'clock a boat from the quarantine guard- 
ship came alongside of ours, and an officer in it 
received our American bill of health, with a pair 
of long iron tongs and dipped it in vinegar. 
Then, after asking our captain a long list of 
questions, the officer ordered his men to return 
to the guard-ship, where he had to exhibit our 
bill of health. 

In the course of a few hours the same boat 
returned, and told us that we would have to move 
into the quarantine ground, and there remain — 
he could not yet tell how many days. They 
said that our paper would have to be examined 
more fully before it could be decided how much 
longer we would have to remain prison-bound. 

The hateful, yellow flag then was hoisted to 
the head of our mizen-mast, and we were towed, 
by our own boats I believe, into the quarantine 
ground. 

And why was this done ? 

^ 1* 



14 

Our bill of health was clean — the port from 
which we sailed was perfectly healthy — but 
there was at that time an epidemic disease, said 
by the English newspapers, to be prevailing in 
one of the cities of the United States, which city 
was more than a thousand miles distant from 
the port we had left more than six weeks ago, 
and at a town not more than two days' sail from 
Gibraltar, the very same disease is now raging, 
with more virulence, than it has ever done any- 
where in North America. 

All this is positively true ; but we are treated 
with severe rigor, because our port is known to 
be careless and very remiss in its quarantine 
regulations. It was very trying, but, like all 
other evils, it had to be borne. The (to us) in- 
teresting question is now, the one so oft repeated 
— How long ? 

All day long we have waited in vain for an 
answer to this important question. In the after- 
noon several boats, containing the friends of the 
captain and some of our passengers, paid us kind^ 
considerate, but very distant visits. 

They were obliged to keep a wide space of 
water between them and our ship, and even that 
privilege was granted them only by especial 
favor from the officers of the guard-ship. 



FEOM TANGIEE IN AFEIOA. 15 

A few minutes before sun-set a health-boat 
came alongside, and put on our deck a guard to 
watch our actions. He was armed, and had au- 
thority to enforce his commands over us. He 
seemed to be a very good humored, and well- 
disposed person, yet his presence was unpleasant, 
because it was forced and unwelcome. We could 
not resist feeling that he was a spy on our move- 
ments. 

How we treated, him must be deferred for the 
present. Adieu until my next letter. 

Yours, affectionately, 

&c., &c. 



LETTER III. 

A CHRISTMAS DAY ON THE BAY. 

Bay of Gibraltar, Dec. 25 th, 18 — . 

My Dear Friend : 

This morning the health officer came 
alongside and informed us of our doom. Then 
there was grumbling enough on all sides of us. 

The guard grumbled because the bed the cap- 
tain had allotted him was too short, and too nar- 
row — it did not suit him " at all, at all." 



16 

The men of the crew were grumbling, because 
they had to work on Christmas — the mate was 
grumbling at them, for presuming to grumble, 
instead of working with a good will — the stew- 
ard grumbled that he was sick — the captain 
grumbled that his breakfast was not ready in 
proper time — the passengers grumbled that every- 
thing was untidy and out of order — then guard, 
men, mate, steward, captain and passengers all 
grumbled because we were condemned to a quar- 
antine of fourteen days. 

That was any kind, more than it was a merry 
or a happy Christmas morning on shipboard. 

We all forgot to look beyond the present to 
the stable in Bethlehem, and to give thanks for 
the blessing which was there so freely given to 
our sinful and ungrateful race. 

Alas, are there not even too many like us ; 
frowning upon their petty affairs, while they are 
forgetful of the stupendous events of the great 
past, and of the still greater future ? 

At 8 o'clock we heard the shrill music of fifes 
and drums on board the guard-ship, and also the 
distant harmony of a full band, playing martial 
tunes on shore. Then the ringing of bells on 
the vessels around us, sounded very pleasantly ; 
and gradually, amid the tingling of bells and 



FEOM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 17 

melodies of a variety of music, our ill humor 
vanished, so that we began to make merry over 
our prolonged confinement within the "wooden 
walls " of our " floating prison." 

If it is true that " misery loves company," we 
ought to be in a very loving mood, for we have 
plenty of company. . We find there are near us 
at least forty square-rigged vessels, and about 
double the number of lateen-sailed ones. 

The weather is fine — the sky is clear, and 
cheerfulness has taken us under its pleasant in- 
fluence, after awhile we walked the deck, and 
greatly enjoyed the novelties of our gay and 
bright surroundings. 

Meanwhile the guard and the captain entered 
into conversation, and seemed to have come to 
the wise and commendable conclusion to become 
better acquainted. The guard soon took particu- 
lar pains to make himself agreeable, and for that 
purpose repeated to the captain the current news 
of the quarantine ground, and rehearsed several 
anecdotes, of which I remember only one. It 
ran in the following manner : 

There is a vessel here which arrived a short 
time ago from Ireland, after a boisterous voyage 
of fifty-nine days. This vessel encountered ter- 
rible storms in the Bay of Biscay. There were 



18 COOS-COO-SOO; OE LETTEES 

on board of her three female passengers. One 
day, during one of the storms, the captain of the 
said vessel was at the helm, and at a short dis- 
tance from him there stood one of the female 
passengers. 

A tremendous wave broke suddenly over the 
quarter-deck, and swept both the woman and the 
captain overboard. A sailor immediately flung 
one end of a coil of rope towards them, the wo- 
man grasped it, but the captain sank, apparently 
without making a single struggle or effort to- 
wards saving his important and valuable life. 
The woman continued her hold on the rope, 
amid the furious raging of the howling tempest, 
and the surging violence of the mountain-hke 
waves, during the terrible space of three-quarters 
of an hour, befoi;e she was hauled safely on deck. 

" There now," said the guard, in conclusion, 
'^ would you believe that of a woman ? "Was she 
not, think you, a stronger vessel than the captain?" 

At about noon the port-physician came along- 
side, and inquired of the guard if we were '' all 
hands all right." Before the guard had time to 
answer him, he in a pompous and haughty man- 
ner, ordered the captain to bring all hands on 
board to the side of the ship, that they might be 
viewed by him. 



FEOM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 19 

Some of the passengers were below at the time, 
and they, in obedience to the captain's message, 
happened to come on deck just as the robust, 
healthy black steward was in the act of stretch- 
ing out his great red tongue, for the doctor s ex- 
amination. Fortunately for their risibilities, 
they were not obliged to follow the steward's 
example. 

That trouble (and it must have been a good 
deal,) was imposed on him in consequence of the 
guard having reported to the M. D. his com- 
plaining of not being well. The doctor then 
asked the captain a vast multitude of unimportant 
and troublesome questions, and then waved us 
a gracious good morning. 

These investigation visits, he makes regularly 
every day, to all the vessels in quarantine. 

A provision-boat comes alongside every morn- 
ing, with fresh meat, vegetables, bread, fowls, 
eggs and milk, so that there is no impediment to 
our living on the fat of the land, provided we 
have money to pay for it. The price is high, 
but our captain is liberal, and buys like a prince. 
His money has to be thrown into vinegar before 
it can be touched by the boat people. This 
afternoon another boat came near, and threw on 
board our ship a basket full of dainties for one 



20 

of the passengers, from his kind friends on shore. 
At about two o'clock, p. m. the captain ordered his 
gig to be manned, and, after having given us a hint 
to prepare for a treat, he told us to take a seat 
in it with him. As we did so we noticed that 
he was dressed in his best land-suit, and looked 
exceedingly well. How we wondered what he 
could be intending to do with us.^ 

When we arrived within speaking distance of 
the guard-ship, he asked for leave to row around 
the quarantine ground, stating for his reason, 
that one of his lady passengers wished to see 
some person on another part of it. A lady's 
wish is, sometimes, as good as law, to even the 
rigidity of a quarantine officer, and he, this time, 
condescended to grant the captain's desired per- 
mission, which" he did, he said, " for the sake of 
gratifying the lady." 

The captain used his privilege to the utmost, 
and kept us in motion until sun-set. The water 
was very clear and beautifully smooth; the 
smallest pebble at the bottom of the Bay was 
distinctly visible. This remarkable clearness of 
the water is said, by the weather-wise, to be a 
sign of an east wind, which here, brings dry and 
oppressive weather : it is so injurious to some 
persons on the Rock, that they are obliged to 



FEOM TANGIER IN AFEICA. 21 

keep within doors as long as it lasts. It some- 
times continues during five or six weeks. 

The view of the town of St. Roque, in Spain, 
with its large church and monastery crowning 
the centre of a high hill, is very beautiful from 
this place. The bells of the church were ringing 
a merry peal for Christmas, and several bands 
of music were playing animating and gleesome 
tunes on shore. 

Our row, along the Spanish shore of the Bay, 
was exceedingly pleasant. We saw the paisanos, 
or country people, walking about in small groups 
on the beach, while on the sides of the hills be- 
yond it, were many of the inhabitants of St. 
Eoque, in happy, loving pairs, or in merrily 
laughing parties, strolling about, enjoying this, 
their greatest annual festival. Though, for that 
matter, almost every other day is a festival with 
them : they seem to know very little about daily 
toil. One can almost fancy that their working 
days are " few and far between." 

After spending some time in rowing along the 
Spanish shore, we went in and out between the 
rows of the many small vessels that contained a 
large proportion of our companions in quaran- 
tine. The greatest number of these were laying 
under the gay and flashy flags of Sardinia and 



22 coos-coo-soO; oe lettees 

Portugal. We passed as closely to them as we 
could, to see their mode of living and view their 
domestic arrangements. Their comforts were 
not numerous, neither did they occupy much 
space. A box or basket of charcoal, a small clay 
furnace, a frying pan, a pair of rusty old tongs, 
a few tin cups and plates, a large brown earthen 
dish, a bottle of olive oil, another of cheap sour 
wine, a bag or box of hard bread, were all the 
articles they required to make them superlatively 
happy. Their favorite dish was composed of 
fresh sardines, fried in oil, and freely sprinkled 
with red pepper. 

Some of the boats were so rich as to own a 
guitar, and on board of them there was no lack 
of music and dancing. 

But there now, as usual, my pen has danced 
itself down to the end of my paper, and I dare 
not begin another sheet to-night, for fear, if I do, 
day-dawn will find me still at my desk. 

Sincerely wishing that you may enjoy many 
happy returns of this blessed holiday, 

I remain, yours truly, 

&c., &c. 



FEOM TANGIEE IN AFEICA. 23 



LETTER lY. 

STILL ON BOARD. 

Bay of Gibraltar, Dec. \6th, 1 8 — . 

My Dear Friend : 

This Bay is said to be in some places 125 
fathoms deep. While we were yesterday going 
on our pleasant row, around the quarantine 
ground, we saw several persons on board of a 
Portuguese mistici^ of war, who were said to be 
prisoners, for having been caught at night while 
swimming about the quarantine ground ; which 
breach of law subjects them to the penalty of 
their lives. Their statement is, that they were 
engaged in a squabble with some comrades on 
the shore of the neutral ground, and that unin- 
tentionally they had killed one of them, and 
were trying to escape from the dead man's re- 
lations, who were pursuing them when they 
were caught swimming. They are now waiting 
for the expiration of their quarantine, to be 
taken ashore, and there stand their trial before 
a legal tribunal. Poor fellows, they looked the 
picture of woe and distress. This is to them a 
very dull Christmas season ! And most em- 
phatically they are proving that, 



24 coos-coo-soo, or lettees 

" The way of the transgressor is hard." 

As the sun was sinking in unclouded beauty, 
below the Western horizon, we reached the side 
of our own ship. That little excursion did us 
good ! After seeing those miserable fishermen, 
and pent up coast-traders in their diminutive 
little boats, our clean and roomy ship seemed to 
be a palace instead of a prison. 

Then to think of our national and religious 
difference ! Truly when we thought there- 
upon, we were compelled by the contrast, to take 
courage and give thanks to the Giver of every 
good and perfect gift, whose mercy alone had 
made our lot in life so much better than theirs ! 

The evening was fine, clear, and mild, as any 
evening in May at home. 

After tea, we took a walk on deck, and lis- 
tened to the vesper bells at the Church of St. 
Roque, in Spain, and of the Spanish church in 
Gibraltar. 

Then our ears were again delighted, by the 
martial music of several bands playing on the 
Rock, and on board of some of the large vessels 
near us. 

Really, our first day in quarantine after all, 
turned out to be a very happy and pleasant one. 

At nine o'clock p. m. we saw a short, bright 



FEOM TANGIEE IN AFEICA. 25 

flasli of light beam from the highest pinnacle of 
the E-ockj then we heard the booming report of 
the evening gun^ in a few minutes afterwards, 
the silence of the " stilly-night" air, was softly, 
stealthily broken, by the slowly measured plash- 
ing of light oars, in the water near us, presently 
we discovered gliding softly past us, the dark- 
colored boat of the quarantine-police, as it went 
on its vigilant and wearisome round, through the 
quarantine water to see if all was well. If they 
should find any vessel without a light at the 
mast-head, over or near the yellow flag, the 
Captain of that vessel would be unmercifully 
fined. 

Our walk on deck closed about ten o'clock, 
and we then retired to the cabin, where we 
spent an hour or two, in reading, writing, or in 
silent meditation. We are hoping that our next 
letter will be dated, and written within the 
strong walls of Gibraltar. How glad we will 
be to make a change ! 

Yours affectionately, 

&c., &c. 



2* 



26 coos-coo-soo, or letters 



LETTERV. 

ON SHORE. 

Gibraltar, Jan. 6th, 1 8 — . 

My Dear Friend : 

Day before yesterday, at about noon, tv e 
were told, that the pratique officer, was coming 
alongside to set us free. What joyful news that 
was ! Although we were spending our time 
very pleasantly, while the weather was clear 
and fine, we knew that it could not be expected 
to remain in its present agreeable state much 
longer. We were well aware, that to be where 
we were in a gale of Easterly wind, or in a 
thunder storm; with a Western hurricane, would 
prove, not only disagreeable, but might be dan- 
gerous to our lives, we were therefore, exceed- 
ingly anxious to proceed on our journey, as soon 
as we could. 

Upon our hurrying up to the deck, we were 
delighted to find that the pratique officer was 
actually at our side, and politely telling our 
captain, that Mr. H. S. our worthy and gentle- 
manly Consul, had interceded for us to the 
Board of Health, with so much earnestness. 



FEOM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 27 

that they had called a meeting to consider our 
case, and that the result of their meeting was a 
resolution to set us free without delay. 

The hateful little yellow flag was immediately 
torn down, and trampled under foot by one of 
the sailors, and the beloved " Star Spangled 
Banner" was soon floating aloft in its place. 
That blessed banner ! How delighted we were 
to see it once more, gaily streaming over our 
h^ads in beauty and joyous welcome. At half 
past one o'clock we weighed anchor, and were 
towed into the admittance ground. 

We again came to anchor at three o'clock. 
Then the captain and one of the passengers 
went on shore, with our American passports, to 
obtain passes for liberty to enter the gates of 
Gibraltar. 

They remained on shore until near sun-set ; 
and then returned on board without them, but 
we were promised that they should be sent to 
us on the following morning. We were ex- 
pecting to make our home at the house of an 
American friend, until we could meet with an 
opportunity of going over to Tangier. 

The captain congratulated us on the good for- 
tune of having a friend to stay with, and said 
something which prejudiced our feelings against 



28 coos-coo-soo, or letters 

the Gibraltar hotels, and added that if we had 
not, he would be glad to have us remain on 
board his ship, until our departure for Tangier. 
We landed to day between three and four 
o'clock, and went to the residence of our Ameri- 
can friend. We found his family all in sad con- 
fusion, and overwhelmed with grief. He had 
just been suddenly seized with a severe illness, 
and was scarcely expected to live. It was im- 
possible to intrude upon them at such a time. 

Then we did not know what to do, or where 
to go. We felt very unwilling to go to a hotel, 
and at the same time, we did not want to return 
to the ship — we were so tired of it. Thus we 
lingered and loitered in the street, in a state of 
indecision, until we perceived that the evening 
shadows were beginning to lengthen, and with 
them the conviction darkened our minds, that 
we must determine to return to the ship very 
soon, or the sun would set — the gun fire — and 
then the gates would close upon us, and we 
would be obliged to take shelter for the night, 
in a hotel. As soon as we had made up our 
minds to return to our old quarters, we started 
on our road towards the gates ; we had not pro- 
ceeded more than a few yards, when a pleasant 
looking, and well dressed little boy, came run- 



FEOM TANGIER IIT AFRICA. 29 

ning after us, and he told us, that his mamma 
wished us to return with him to her, and to do 
her the pleasure of giving her our company to 
dinner which was then nearly ready. 

His mamma was an old friend, but one upon 
whom we had not felt at liberty to call without 
an invitation. She was very kind, and procured 
for us lodgings in the house of a private family, 
where we have two very comfortably furnished 
rooms, in one of which is burning a bright fire 
of English coals, in a grate ; this fire affords a 
very home-like aspect to our temporary resi- 
dence. For the rent of these rooms, the fire 
and the attendance of a servant, we pay three 
dollars per week. Twice a day the servant is 
to bring to us, a kettle of boiling water, and a 
small tea service. We are to find, and scald our 
own tea, also the sugar and cakes, or crackers 
to eat with it. We are to procure our dinners 
from a mess-house. These dinners, we are told 
by our kind friend, will consist of the best and 
finest edibles in the world, and will be given us 
in an abundance that will be extravagantly boun- 
tiful. Thus we will live, at half the amount we 
would have to pay at a hotel, besides the gain 
of living in private, and feefing perfectly at home. 

This we could never do at any hotel. 



30 COOS-COO-SOO, OR LETTERS 

Do you wish to know what a mess-house is ? 
It is a long low building, in which the officers 
of the garrison take their meals, we believe at 
the expense of the British government. Truly 
they are well fed. We understand that they 
have their choice, to take their meals at the 
mess-house, or to receive larger pay and find 
their own provisions. The majority of the un- 
married and some of the married ones prefer eat- 
ing at the mess-house. 

We shall probably remain here a week or two 
— we will have to wait until the wind comes from 
the East, before we can depart for our future home 
on the shore of Western Barbary in Africa. 

Yours truly, 

&C.5 &c. 



FEOM TANGIER IN AFEICA. 31 



LETTER VI. 

A FIRST WALK IN EUROPE. 

Gibraltar, Jan. 8th, ig — . 

My Dear Friend : 

Yesterday we took a walk out on the 
surface of this most wonderful place. When we 
started out on this our first walk in Europe, we 
resolved to keep our eyes wide open, to see as 
much as we could, and to make a note of it aE, 
for your especial benefit. Well do you deserve 
this attention, in return for the real treat which 
we this morning received from you in the form 
of a four paged letter, all filled with interesting 
news about the dear ones at home. As we read 
it, we fully realized the force and beauty of the 
following 

STANZAS, 

On the pleasure of receiving letters from home, when in a foreign 

Country. 

<( 'Tis sweet, unutterably sweet, 

Upon a far and foreign shore, 
The pen-recorded thoughts to greet 
Of those whom 'twas once bliss to meet, 

But now are severed by the roar 
Of mighty ocean, and the green 
Of hill and plain, outstretched between. 



82 coos-coo-soo, or letters 

(' Then like a lava-tide the past 

Comes o'er the spirit, bye-past things, 

And half-forgotten thoughts, which cast 

Gleams, far too beautiful to last. 

Of heavenly radiance from their wings 

And lo ! in hues more bright than truth 

Start visioned forth the scenefof youth ! 

Yes ! like a picture there they smile. 
The sunbright years of early life, 

'Ere stooped the heart to worldly guile. 

And earth an eden looked the while. 

Replete with bliss, and free from strife ; 

Days far too heavenly to remain ! 

Days which will ne'er return again ! 

And thus 'tis welcome, thus 'tis sweet. 
When journeying on a foreign strand. 

The letter of a friend to greet — 

And dream that we once more may meet 
Within our own our native land ; 

It is iho hope whose glorious dye 

Alone makes bright futurity !" 

Alas, many a weary year will pass before we 
meet ; but meanwhile, we pray you may fail not 
to let us hear from you very frequently. We 
will do our part faithfully of writing to you, of 
all we see and learn, of the rare places in which 
we are to pass so much of our precious time. 

This Rock of Gibraltar was called (they say) 
Cape Calpe, by the ancients ; it is now reported 
to be seven miles in circumference, two miles 



FKOM TANGIER IN AFEICA. 33 

and a half long, in height it measures fourteen 
hundred feet. The meaning of its present name 
which is composed of two Arabic words, Gibel- 
trek, is literally translated into English, Moun- 
tain-road. It is doubtlessly the strongest forti- 
fication in the world. The garrison within its 
walls at this time, is supposed to consist of sev- 
eral thousand armed men. Their number varies 
at different times, as the regiments of the Brit- 
ish army are constantly changing about from one 
place to another, and are always coming and 
going, according to the will and commands of 
the Commander-in-chief. 

The Rock was taken from the Spaniards by 
the English, under Sir George Rook, in the year 
1704. 

Since that period they have made several at- 
tempts to re-take possession of the important 
citadel. In the year 1782 they made their last 
attack on it, but suffered so severely, and lost 
so heavily, that since then they have given up 
their efforts to recover it. 

The place at present is provided with dry 
meat, butter in firkins, and breadstuffs from 
England, Ireland and the United States ; with 
fresh beef, poultry, eggs, and oranges from Bar- 
bary. Wines and liquors are imported from 

3 



3-i COOS-COO-SOO, OR LETTERS 

France and Spain. Fruits and vegetables are 
brought in abundantly from Spain; figs, raisons 
and honey are supplied by Smyrna and other 
places in the Mediterranean. The Bay of Gib- 
raltar yields an abundant supply, and a great 
variety of excellent fish. The oysters are not fit 
to eat; they have a strong copperish taste, which 
renders them unpalatable. But where there is such 
an abundance of so many other good things, those 
selfish and hard-hearted creatures may be easily 
dispensed with. A walk through the business 
part of Gibraltar is very amusing ; there are to 
be seen in it people from every part of the globe. 
Their different modes of costume, and the va- 
riety of languages which they speak, make up a 
continual confusion of sights and sounds which are 
seldom seen or heard in any other place. While 
viewing them one might easily fancy that here is 
the centre of the difierent veins of the world, and 
that Gibraltar is the heart of that world — for is 
it not as stony, flinty and impregnable, as is this 
structure of nature's firmest handiwork. 

The town is built on the North-Western por- 
tion of the Rock, it begins at the water of the 
Bay, and extends nearly half way up the side 
of the Hock, and is about one mile in length. 
It is surrounded by a strong thick double wall, 



FEOM TANGIER IK AFRICA. So 

which near the water is f^xced bj batteries. 
These batteries are strongly armed with can- 
nons of the largest calibre on carriages, and 
heaped up with immense piles of balls and 
bomb-shells. To be ready to kill and destroy 
their fellow men, appears to be the ruling object 
of the rulers of the place. 

Not only the town but the entire Rock is con- 
stantly, day and night, (Sundays not excepted,) 
under the strictest and most rigid martial law. 
Sentinels are stationed here, there, and every- 
where all over the place, just as they would be if 
the town was besieged by a numerous array of 
fighting enemies. Our eyes are constantly being 
dazzled with the sight of their brilliant red coats, 
and the bright gleaming of their highly polished 
arms. 

After a certain hour at night — the hour is 
changed according to the will and pleasure of the 
Governor — no person is allowed to walk the street 
without being able to give the watch-word, (which 
is frequently changed,) unless they have in their 
possession an especial permit. If any one would 
attempt to pass a sentinel after that certain 
hour, without answering his roughly toned 
question, 

" Who goes there ?" by repeating the watch- 



B6 coos-coo-soo, or letters 

word, or showing a permit, to be out late at 
night, he would be taken prisoner and detained 
under arrest until next morning. 

The Governor of Gibraltar is the civil and 
militc^ry head of all authority, and is in his 
way, almost royalized. He reigns like a mon- 
arch over his little territory, and is treated with 
unbounded respect and honor. He mixes very 
little in general society, and appears to be almost 
alone in his official grandeur. 

Society here is divided in the higher circles 
into two different classes, and I suppose may be 
considered as a true copy, in epitome, of society 
in England. The two classes are the military 
and the civilian; the civilians are the rich mer- 
chants, and the military class is composed of 
officers of the Army and Navy, and the various 
Consuls, if they are salaried officials. 

If they are not salaried by their own nations, 
but are merely commercial agents, engaged in 
business for their own private benefit, they are 
considered as belonging to the civilian rank. 

To these rules there are of course some excep- 
tions ; but they are the exceptions and not the 
rules. 

The civilians call the military, " The liveried 
servants of H.* Majesty," and the military con- 



FROM TANGIER IX AFRICA. 37 

temptuously style the civilians, " The stupid, 
plodding trades-people." 

Generally the merchants are the richest, and 
they live in splendid houses which are hand- 
somely furnished. 

In point of intellect and respecting other 
moral and religious qualities, they are about 
equally divided : there are good and bad in both 
classes. 

Under the houses are dug in the solid rock 
large tanks, into which the rain is conducted 
from the roofs over them, and on these tanks the 
residents of the houses mainly depend for their 
supplies of water. 

The ground floors are used for storage, the 
rooms of the second stories are used for count- 
ing houses and business offices, and in those of the 
third stories are the dwelling places — the 
parlors, kitchens and bed-chambers, all on one 
floor, for the use of the families. They are 
large and well ventilated rooms. The houses 
very seldom have a fourth story. 

The retail stores are generally on the ground 
floors ; and are very well supplied with an abun- 
dance of goods and attentive clerks. 

But I must hasten to conclude this letter, as 
the vessel which I hope may carry it in safety 

3* 



88 

to your loving hands, is expected to take her 
departure to-night, for which reason I must send 
it off before sunset, or you will have to, wait for 
it a month longer. 

Yours affectionately, 

&c., &c. 



LETTER YIT. 

A WALK ON THE ROCK. 

Gibraltar, Jan. 1 6th, 1 8 — . 

My Very Deae Friend : 

About half way up the rock, there are 
the ruins of an* old Moorish castle. I presume, 
you know that this town was formerly owned 
and inhabited by that once powerful, but now 
fastly diminishing nation — though diminishing, 
they are to me, a very interesting — yea, the 
most interesting of all the nations of the eastern 
hemisphere — ^because they are to be my future 
neighbors. 

"When we went out of the southern gate of the 
town, we came to a very beautiful small grave- 
yard; it is finely shaded by large trees, and rich- 



FROM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 89 

ly ornamented with handsome and costly tomb- 
stones. This grave-yard is very small, so small 
that I do not think it is more than a hundred 
feet long. 

This is only guess work, you know, for I have 
no means of measuring it, and I cannot be for- 
ever asking questions about height, and depth, 
length and breadth. 

In fact, I have already found that there is 
very little use in ever asking questions, upon 
such descriptive subjects, for the answer to them 
most frequently is, that disagreeable and un- 
satisfactory one, ^'I dorit ImoivT 

I would, I believe, rather trust to guess-work 
than to it. 

But I must try to remember in these letters, 
to tell you when I guess and when I hnow. 

Well, to return to this enchanting little grave- 
yard. I was told — so I presume to be able to 
say I know — it is used only by a favored few of 
the most distinguished officers of the British 
government. To have a friend or relative buried 
on the rock, is considered a great honor. The 
usual place of interment is on the Neutral 
Ground, where it is said that at the depth of 
three feet, the coffins float in water. To be 
buried on the Neutral Ground, is viewed with 



40 

great dread and aversion by those who are not 
natives of this place. 

Such persons, if they can afford it, generally 
have their deceased friend's mortal remains con- 
veyed to their native country. 

The natives of the rock are accustomed to the 
shallowness of the neutral ground graves, and do 
not seem to care much about it. 

There is a Jewish burying ground, high up 
on the south of the Rock, which is said to be 
filled up with graves, and, on that account, the 
Jews of this place, (who are numerous,) are also 
obliged to bury on the Neutral Ground. 

After going past the beautiful little grave-yard, 
near the town-gate, we entered the Alameda. 

This is an elegant and much frequented pub- 
lic promenade g¥ound. There is in one part of 
it a large, well gravelled space, nearly square, 
which is used very often as the drihing place of 
the privates. To witness the operation is very 
painful, and well calculated to make one pity the 
poor soldiers. But it makes them perfect in 
their profession, and is profitable to their nation 
— even thus may we view the discipline of the 
spiritual children of Israel, it is painful and 
wearisome to their natural feelings, but it works 
out for them the peaceable fruits of Christ's 



FEOM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 41 

righteousness^ and will lead them, if thej are 
faithful unto death, into his glorious kingdom of 
everlasting rest. 

Hest, rest, rest, oh, how comfortable is the re- 
flection that there remaineth a rest for the peo- 
ple of God ! 

On this space also, we were told, that the 
public services of the Established Church of 
England are held on Sunday mornings, for the 
benefit of the soldiers. 

On such occasions a large bass drum is used 
for a reading-desk, which is covered by a British 
flag. 

This square, or space of ground, is entirely 
surrounded by high and luxurious hedges of the 
scarlet blossomed geraniums, they are very beau- 
tiful, with their dark green leaves, and their 
bright, gay flowers. They grow in the open air 
all the year. Snow and frost never show their 
destructive operations on this highly favored 
little spot. 

The other parts of the Alameda consist of 
walks, hedges, flower beds, fruit trees and sweet- 
ly-scented shrubbery. There are also present, 
some very fine orange and lemon trees. In one 
spot there is a boautiful little rustic bridge, which 
is tastefully constructed over a deep, though 



42 coos-coo-soO; oe lettees 

narrow chasm or cleft in the rock. The railing 
on the sides of the bridge, appears to be made of 
the tangled roots of a tree ; they look as if they 
had been cut out and put up as they once grew, 
beneath the surface of the ground. 

In another place there is a handsome vine- 
covered summer-house, which is called the pavi- 
lion, on account of its beautiful shape. 

It is very delightful to sit on one of the many 
seats, or to walk about over the flower-decked 
paths of this lovely Alameda, and listen to the 
martial music which is almost incessantly greet- 
ing our ears. 

Almost constantly we are within hearing of 
melodious sounds of some kind of musical in- 
struments. Sometimes a whole band of skilful 
performers will 'be filling the air with enchanting 
harmony. At others, a group of well-trained 
bugle players will be exercising their melodious 
faculties, while they sit, perched high up, almost 
out of sight, and hidden by the expanded leaves 
of wild palmetto bushes, upon a neighboring 
pinnacle of the stony rock, and their long peals 
of entrancing melody, will resound from point to 
point, and from the roaring depths of the exca- 
vations beneath the surface of the rock, thence 
bounding, they sweep from wave to wave of the 



FEOM TANGIER IN AFEICA. 43 

surrounding sea, and then, gradually and very 
softly die away, in oft repeated and long con- 
tinued echoes, among the distant hill-tops of 
sunny old Spain. 

Farther south — beyond the precincts of the 
Alameda, there are several little cottages, which 
are used as summer residences. They are very 
pretty, and very small — perfect little fairy 
palaces. 

From this Alameda, there are several narrow 
roads, cut out of the solid rock, and they lead 
the way, by zigzag turns, to the top of the rock. 

The ground in which the plants and trees 
grow, w^e were informed, w^as carried there at 
the expense of the British government. 

Where it w^as carried from, was a question 
which we forgot to ask. Perhaps it was brought 
from Spain. The Neutral Ground is covered 
with barren sand. 

Half way up the side of the rock, and on a 
line w^ith the town, in an eastern direction, there 
are a few remains of an old castle, w4iich was 
built by the Moors, in their by-gone days of na- 
tional prosperity. There are not about them 
much of the appearance of a castle. They look 
more like a heap of useless old stones. 

On one part of the highest ridge of the rock, 



4:4: coos-coo-soo, ok letteks 

there is an ancient tower, which is also said to 
be of Moorish construction. It was formerly 
their watch-tower, and appeared to be on the 
highest spot of the whole rock. The English, 
with their superior and scientific knowledge of 
altitude, discovered a pinnacle which is consid- 
erably higher than the site of the old Moorish 
watch-tower, and on it they have erected their 
flag-staff. On the same spot they have built a 
battery of several large cannons. 

It is from this highly elevated battery, that 
the morning and sun-set guns are fired, which 
are the signals for opening and closing the town 
gates. There is also fired from the same bat- 
tery a gun at 9 o'clock, p. m. The sun-rising 
and sun-setting guns are fired off at the moments 
in which the, sun makes its first appearance 
above, and when it takes its departure for the 
night beneath the horizon. 

There is something very sublime in this pub- 
lic announcement of the beginning and ending of 
one more day of our mortal career upon earth. 

It is a subject of thought which should be 
rich in gratitude and thankfulness to that great 
Benefactor by whose power "we live, move and 
have our being." We vividly rejoiced in the 
announcement, but, could we have a vote upon 



FROM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 45 

the subject of the mode in which it is made, we 
would, if possible, have it done in some way that 
would be less warlike than the discharge of a 
cannon. 

The fact is that your present correspondent is 
no friend to gunpowder, in any way or for any 
purpose, except on one day of the year, and that 
day is the fourth of July. On that happy and 
joyous day, my patriotism vanquishes my native- 
born quakerism, and I enjoy the flashing of the 
fiery material, as much as any urchin who de- 
lights to keep the day in a roar with its expen- 
diture. 

On the centre of the side of the rock, there is 
the entrance to a large cave, called St. Michael's, 
the end of which has never yet been discovered. 

Several persons have been know^n to lose their 
lives by endeavoring to find it. Some people 
believe that it ends in Africa. But such a be- 
lief is founded only on conjecture; there is no 
soHd fact to sustain it. 

The excavations which are large and strongly 
mounted passages, cut out of the solid rock, many, 
many feet beneath its surface, are very curious 
and well worth a visit. 

We enjoyed our walk very much ; if you Avill 
be half as much pleased with my feeble discrip- 



46 coos-coo-soo, or letters 

tion of it, you will thereby be made happy 
enough for one day. And now I must bid you 
good-night, for my rocky rambles over, under, 
in, out and about this wonderful place, have made 
me quite ready for the rest of my pillow. Adieu, 
may you, my dear friend, enjoy a good night's 
rest ; and may your dreams therein be not of 
the rock — ^rocky. Mine, I am sure, will be very 
rocky — but in my case, they will be brightly 
illumined by radiant and roseate recollections of 
a lovely day's roving. 
Again adieu. 

Yours, affectionately, 

&c., &c. 



LETTER VIII. 

DEPAETURE FBOM THE ROCK. 

Tangier, Jan. i8 — . 

My Dear Friend . 

My letter at last is dated at Tangier, and 
my journey is ended. 

We had begun to imagine that we would 
never reach our destination, at which you will 
not wonder, if you will have patience to bear 



FEOM TANGIEE IN AFKICA. 47 

me company while I recount to your listening 
ears the long chapter of " haps and mishaps" 
which met and followed us on our attempt to 
cross the straits — truly the attempt was full of 
various straits, and of as many crosses too, but 
among all the crosses there seemed to be no 
getting across for us. 

When we began looking about for a passage 
to this place from Gibraltar, we were told by a 
friend, that there would be a good sized and safe 
vessel, ready to sail in a few days. 

Depending upon his superior knowledge and 
experience of the subject, we took his advice 
and waited until it would be ready. After 
waiting five whole days we embarked on board 
of a coast-trader of lateen sail, and the Sardin- 
ian flag. It generally made the trip to and 
from Tangier, once in two weeks. It was 
employed to carry living beef from Tangier to 
Gibraltar, and was highly recommended to us 
as being the largest and safest vessel, in which 
we could expect to obtain a passage to Tangier 
in the space of a long time. Verily, upon 
reaching it, we fancied neither its size nor 
safety ; but we wanted sadly to be at our jour- 
ney's end, and would have been willing to have 
started for that even in a tub, if nothing better 



48 coos-coo-soo, oe letters 

was come-at-able. Several times while we had 
walked the streets of Gibraltar, we had seen 
Moorish men with their white turbans and flow- 
ing mantles, but we had never met them as 
closely as we now saw them on board that 
coast-trader. 

There were on board about thirty Moors, all 
going to their homes in Tangier. Some of them 
were hadgi, who were on their return from a 
pilgrimage to Mecca. Others had been to Gib- 
raltar on a trading expedition. They sat upon 
the deck-floor of the little craft, and filled its 
narrow limits so completely, that there was not a 
foot of space left there for the use of our little 
party of new comers. 

The captain of the felucca, or the patrone as 
they all called, him, told us that we were to have 
the exclusive use of the cabin. This we fancied, 
included a hint that we had no claim upon any 
part of the deck. 

But such a cabin ! 

A log cabin on a wild Western prairie was a 
palace compared to it ! There was not in it one 
single article of furniture of any kind, except a 
few narrow, thin mattresses, which were spread 
out on the floor, without sheets, pillows or 
blankets. 



FEOM TANGIER IN AFEICA. 49 

All such cumbersome luxuries were expected 
to be provided by the passengers, for their own 
use, or to be — done without. 

Our supper — the only meal which we ex- 
pected to need on board — was packed up in our 
own basket. 

I seated myself on an end of one of the mat- 
tresses, as near to the door as I could, not only 
for the sake of getting as much fresh air as was 
possible — a very much needed article every- 
where — but also for the purpose of watching the 
actions and manners of my future neighbors. 

They kept me busily employed ! They and 
their movements were to me highly interesting 
and important. I was not among them a travel- 
ler who was to abide with them, merely a few 
days, or weeks, or months. 

But my future residence among them was 
destined to be permanent for years — perhaps 
for life ! 

Alas ! how dark and sorroAvful was to me the 
gloomy anticipation ! 

There they all sat with their unstock- 
inged and unshod feet coiled up under them 
out of sight. They were talking slowly and 
soberly in deep, low, gutteral sounds. Some- 
times — though rarely — they would laugh, with 

4* 



50 COOS-COO-SOO, OR LETTERS 

a sober, grave looking, stealthy sort of laugh, 
which seemed to act on their mouths only, and 
not to have any heart-feeling in it. 

They did not by any means appear to be a 
happy or merry people. 

The hadgi were dressed in better style than the 
others, their long flowing, fine woollen haiks 
were of snowy whiteness, and were wound most 
gracefully around their brilHantly attired bodies 
and over their shoulders. 

We started from the anchorage in the Bay of 
Gibraltar with a fair wind ; but it was very 
light, almost too light to carry us against the tide, 
or current, which is always rushing to the Medi- 
terranean Sea through the Straits of Gibraltar. 

We sailed slowly past the town, the Alameda, 
and that part ©f the Rock which is called " the 
South." 

The Alameda, with its fresh green hedges, and 
its darker hued orange and lemon trees, made a 
very beautiful view, in strong contrast with the 
frowning black batteries, so thickly mounted 
with theu' gloomy looking and life-destructive 
cannons. Thus we again realized that the Rock 
was a miniature of the world. It was so full of 
beautiful green spots, profusely interspersed 
with dark and sombre ones. 



FROM TANGIER IX AFRICA. 51 

The patrone seemed then to be very uneasy 
about the wind ; his eyes were often cast towards 
the top of the Rock, and as the departing rays of 
the setting sun brightly illumined the highest 
pinnacle, he seemed to despair of there being 
an increase of the Eastern breeze. The Moors 
all turned their faces towards the East, bowed 
their heads very lowly, pressed their hands rev- 
erently over their hearts, and prayed aloud for 
an increase of the wind. Then they held a 
whispered and very earnest consultation among 
themselves, and upon it they resolved to offer a 
vow to the Deity for the blessing of a stronger 
wind. They vowed to pray a certain number of 
prayers in the great Mosque at Tangier, if they 
should be permitted to cast anchor in Tangier 
Bay, before the dawn of another day. 

Then to propitiate If is favor, they procured a 
small cloth bag, and collected in it every piece 
of money that was on board, belonging to any 
one of the Mohammedan faith. Then they 
hung the bag up on the head of the mast, and 
with their eyes all fixed steadily on it, they 
chanted in concert a low-voiced and plaintive 
prayer. Thus they continued to do until it 
was quite dark. But the wind did not increase. 
Nine o'clock gun was discharged, and we were 



52 coos-coo-soo, oe lettees 

still beating back and fortb against the current of 
the Straits. Fortunately for our comfort the 
water was comparatively smooth, the motion of 
the vessel was not unpleasant, and seemed in its 
gentle action and its lowly murmured sounds to 
invite us to calm repose upon the sheetless mat- 
tresses. The patrone then asked some of the 
stronger passengers, if they would be willing to 
assist at rowing the small boats, in order to tow 
us over the most rapid part of the opposing cur- 
rent. To this they most readily consented ; 
then speedily the boats, two or three in number, 
were filled with the crew and passengers, and by 
dint of their united labors at the oars, we made 
some headway towards the haven where we all 
so anxiously longed to arrive. 

The patrone'ifi spirits were now raised to hope- 
fulness, and he told us in broken English, that 
we would soon hear the bark of the Moorish 
watch-dogs on the Barbary coast. 

The now mid-night barking of those dogs, 
warns me that I must defer for the present the 
continuation of our journey, to within the sound 
of their unmusical voices. 

Yours affectionately, 

&c., &c. 



FROM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 53 



LETTEE IX. 

A SURPEISE. 

Tangier, Feb. 1st, i8 — . 

My Very Dear Friend : 

With a confiding feeling of security in 
the promises of our Patrone, we took possession 
of his hard, nocturnal accommodations, and with 
carpet bags for pillows, cloaks, shawls and over- 
coats for sheets and bed clothes, we were soon 
in a sound sleep, which lasted until day-dawn. 

We were aroused from our morning slumbers 
by hearing the rolling bomb of a cannon's loud 
and near report, we opened our eyes in astonish- 
ment and exclaimed aloud, "What is that? Do 
the Moors too fire a morning gun ? " 

We felt that we were at anchor, and gladly 
supposed ourselves to be safely moored within 
the waters of Morocco. 

Upon hastily going on deck, and looking 
around us, we found that we were at anchor in 
the identical spot which we had left the day 
before. 

We stared at the Patrone for an explanation. 



54 coos-coo-soO; or letters 

he pointed to the top of the rock, shrugged his 
shoulders, and said, 

" Paciencia, falta viento." 

His English was all lost in his Spanish 'pa- 
ciencia. 

Well, in one hour after that we were comfort- 
ably eating our breakfast in our former lodging 
house, beside the brightly burning fire of English 
coals. 

Over and over again we asked ourselves the 
question, "Will we ever see Tangier?" 

That afternoon we met with an English lady 
and gentleman, who told us that they were going 
to start next day for Tangier, on board the Span- 
ish courier boat, in company with the Spanish 
Vice Consul of Tangier, and they advised us to 
go with them. ' 

The run from Gibraltar to Tangier is generally 
made in five hours. This little courier boat was 
in the habit of making the trip between the two 
places once a week, and is so small that it can 
easily run in the eye of the wind, and dodge 
about between its blasts, or be easily forced 
ahead by rowing, and was altogether more easily 
managed than the large mistico or felucca, in 
which we had made our first attempt to cross 
the Straits. 



FEOM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 55 

Thus zealously argued our newly made British 
friends, and we, in our anxiety to arrive at Tan- 
gier, believed every word they uttered. 

The next morning we embarked, and again 
started from the Bay of Gibraltar. This time 
we had a head wind, and plenty of it. The 
waves of the sea were high and roughly cast us 
hither and thither, as if we were only a cork cast 
upon them for a thing of sport and pastime. 

In a short time we were all suffering from sea- 
sickness of the most violent kind. The motion 
of the miserable little craft into which we had 
been allured, was so short, quick and abrupt 
that it seemed to tear us asunder, and to threaten 
our lives. All our former experience of the 
'^healthy ailment'^' seemed as blissful when com- 
pared to this unprecedented and merciless attack. 
Here on board of this little Spanish boat there 
was no cabin at all, w^e all lay helpless and hope- 
less upon a pile of sails, spread out for us by the 
kind hearted sailors, on the planks of the deck. 
A more pitiable looking set of passengers could 
not very easily be imagined, by even the most 
fanciful brain. 

Nearly all day we battled with the wind and 
the waves. The Spanish Vice Consul was as 
sick as any of us. When w^e w^ere more than 



56 coos-coo-soO; oe lettees 

half way over, the wind increased in violence, 
and the waves, of course, kept it company, by 
piling still higher and higher their surging foam. 
Oh, it was a miserable time we had. At last 
th^ Spanish Vice Consul thought it was impru- 
ctent to undertake to spend the night out in that 
increasing wind, especially as the clouds were 
beginning to threaten rain, and it was finally 
quite apparent to him and the Patrone, that we 
could not reach Tangier before the close of the 
day. 

At sun-set the town gates would be shut, and 
we would not be able to go on shore. 

Oh, those town gates, those town gates, what 
a nuisance they are ! 

The Vice Consul's will was law to the Patrone, 
and therefore ^Ye were compelled once more to 
return to the Rock. 

We sailed along quite speedily before the wind, 
until we came to the distance of about five miles 
of the Bay of Gibraltar. Here the wind sudden- 
ly ceased and we were left at the mercy of the 
current. We were then in great danger of being 
carried behind the Rock, where being wrecked 
on the rocky shore, would have been almost cer- 
tain, in case of a sudden squall of wind over- 
taking us. We still had some distance to go. 



FEOM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 57 

At sun-set the gates would be closed, and we 
would be shut out for the night. Oh, how 
anxious we were to get on shore ! Then there 
arose a fair wind which carried us safely into 
the harbor, but it was too late — before we had 
anchored the sun-set gun fired, and w^e were shilC 
out for the night. 

Then suddenly the twihght of evening was 
obscured by a pitch-like heavy cloud, which 
" hung like a pall " over the whole sky, and a 
terrible blast of wind swept over us, which 
seemed as if it would tear us from our anchor. 
A frightful peal of thunder rolled its thousand 
echoes over the hills on shore, and resounded 
through the long and deep excavations of the 
Rock. 

Flash after flash of vivid lightning dazzled our 
eyes. One of the sailors covered us up closely 
with a painted awning, just in time to prevent 
our being deluged in a heavy shower of rain, 
which then poured down in torrents. To have 
to spend the whole night in that condition, 
seemed very awful, besides being very danger- 
ous. 

There was great risk of our cable parting, in 
which case, we must inevitably be wrecked and 
irowned. 

6 



58 coos-coo-soo, or letters 

The English gentleman and the Spanish Vice 
Consul prevailed on the patrone to venture to 
send a boat to an English brig of war, which was 
lying near us, to tell the captain on board of it 
of our exposed and endangered condition. He 
at once, very politely, sent us a boat rowed by a 
powerful band of sturdy English sailors, with an 
invitation to take shelter for the night in his 
cabin. 

The getting out of one boat into the other, the 
row from the Spanish courier to the English brig, 
and the clambering up the wet and heaving side 
of the man-of-war, the pouring rain, the wind, 
the boisterous waves, the roaring thunder and 
the dazzling lightning, as we then and there fled 
for refuge beneath the deck of the English brig, 
formed a variety and a sublimity of the awful, 
which we hope we may never see again. 

When at last we were safely sheltered in the 
comfortable and spacious cabin of the English 
brig, we felt as if we had been suddenly trans- 
ported to another world. We were soon seated 
at the captain's hospitable supper-table, and amid 
the luxuries and the warm and dry surroundings 
of his comfortable quarters, we were, ere long, 
forgetful of the storm which was still raging in 
unabated violence over us. The clean and cozy 



FROM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 69 

beds, with the repose-inviting pillows, sheets and 
blankets, lulled us to a sound sleep, which we 
greatly needed after our day's toilsome tumbling 
about over the rough waves of the Straits. We 
seemed to have passed by one step from all the 
hideousness of semi-barbarism, to the comforts 
and comforting luxuries of a refined and highly 
cultivated civilization. 

Why do they not have a steamer in which to 
cross the Straits ? was the question which we 
asked ourselves over and over again. The only 
answer we could find to it was the supposition 
that it would not pay. For we could plainly see 
that the "mighty dollar" was as potent in its 
operations upon the inhabitants of Europe, as it 
is upon any thrifty son or daughter of Adam in 
the dollar-loving land of yankeedom. 

Still we cannot help believing that if some en- 
terprising and energetic American, with suffi- 
cient capital to start it well and comfortably, so 
as to give it a fair trial, would undertake to ply 
a daily steamer packet between Gibraltar and the 
neighboring ports of the Barbary shore, he would 
make it a paying speculation, and would take a 
long and powerful step towards the civilization 
of Africa. The English people love comfort and 
are able to pay for it. The present abominable 



60 COOS-COO-SOO, OE LETTEES 

system of an overstrained and unreasonable 
strictness of the quarantine laws, forms the great- 
est obstacle which we can see to the success of 
the plan ; but a daily and regular intercourse by 
steamer with the shores of Barbary, would tend 
to break down and weaken all that is over- 
strained and unreasonable in that system. An 
occasional trip somewhere away from the Rock 
would be a desirable treat to its pent up inhabi- 
tants;, if they could obtain it in comfort and at 
a moderate expense. 

After a good night's rest and a hearty break- 
fast with our kind English friends, we returned 
once more to our pleasant lodging house, with 
the determination not to leave it again for the 
port of Tangier, until we saw a cloud-cap upon 
the top of the Kock of Gibraltar, which is here 
an indication of a steady and continued east 
wind. 

We had seen as much of the Rock as we wished 
to see. We had ridden into Spain as far as to St. 
Roque and to Algecirus, we had visited and sat 
in the " Queen's Arm Chair," and did not wish 
to extend our travels farther into that kingdom, 
for fear of missing the east wind, which might 
any day incline to favor our wishes. Our few 
visits to our few friends in Gibraltar were soon 



FEOM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 61 

paid. Besides all that, the rain continued to 
pour down in torrents, and out-of-door exercise 
was very unpleasant. Then what were we to do 
with our time, until there should occur a change 
of wind. 

Books — had we no books ? 

Yes any amount of them within our reach, and 
in them we read, rambled and roved in uninter- 
rupted mental enjoyment, until we were indif- 
ferent to all winds and all weathers. 

A blessing we fervently invoked upon all wri- 
ters, printers and binders of books. 

What would the world be without books ? 

A dry, sordid, sandy and sterii soil, void of 
pleasure and of delight. Thank heaven that we 
live in an age which is abundantly supplied with 
books. Again and again we exclaimed in the 
quiet retreat of our private lodgings, a blessing 
upon all writers and printers of books. 

The many hours of enjoyment which they 
have bestowed upon us are the happiest of our 
lives. 

The " Queen's Arm Chair " is a very ancient 
tower, built upon the top of one of the Spanish 
hills opposite to Gibraltar. 

Tradition says that the Queen of Spain once 

took up her residence in that tower, and dwelt 

5* 



62 

there during the siege of the Spaniards against 
the Rock, to recover it from the Enghsh, and 
that she sat day after day on the top of that 
tower, watching to see the flag of Spain hoisted 
in triumph and victory over the walls of Gibral- 
tar. It further states that at last the Queen 
vowed that she would not change her clothes 
until she saw this desire of her heart accom- 
plished. 

She wore the same garments during forty 
days, and then the Enghsh general, pitying her 
forlorn condition for the want of a change of 
raiment, gallantly hoisted the Spanish flag with 
his own hands, and kept it afloat long enough to 
give her Majesty time to renew her toilet, and 
to be freed from her rash and inconvenient vow. 

But I beg jjou to excuse me for intruding so 
long at once upon the use of your precious and 
so fully occupied time. How my pen will keep 
running away with me and all my conscious ideas 
of the flight of minutes and of hours. 

How can any living mortal find time to be in 
its passage over us, slow or heavy ? 

Mine ever flies so rapidly that it is truly like 
the weaver s shuttle, flying hither and away, so 
swiftly that it defies the power of the keenest 
vision to discern its shape or form. May it, as 



FROM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 63 

it flies, form a web, which will stand the test of 
that great trying time when every one's work 
will be made manifest, whether for good or for 
evil. 

Adieu, dearest friend, 

&c., &c. 



LETTER X. 

ARRIVAL AT TANGIER. OUTER AND INNER VIEW 
OF THE TOWN. 

Tangier, Feb. 15 th, 18 — . 

My Dear Friend : 

Again buoyed up with fresh courage, and 
with renewed hopes we once more embarked for 
Tangier. 

On the day which witnessed this our third 
departure from the Bay of Gibraltar, the stead- 
fast old Rock had his night-cap (as the natives 
term it) hanging in floating mist upon his sturdy 
old brow. 

That cap of misty clouds was said to be, by the 
weather-wise of the place, an infallible prognos- 
tic of a steady and long continued East wind. 
It commenced blowing one day about half an 



64 coos-coo-soo, or letters 

hour before sun-set, and the next morning at about 
nine o'clock we made our third embarkation from 
the good old town of Gibraltar. 

We were favored with a delightful trip across 
the StraitSj and were most agreeably disap- 
pointed to find that when we arrived within 
sight of the town of Tangier, it presented, con- 
trary to all our anticipations, of what a town in 
Africa must look like — a cheerful and bright 
looking prospect. The houses of the natives 
are dazzling white. The Consular houses, about 
ten or twelve in number, are painted in different 
colors according to the fancy of their respective 
occupants. 

Adjoining almost every well sized native 
house, there is a large and overshadowing fig- 
tree, or grape-vine arbor. ^ ^ ^ 

As these two plants are here^ever-green and 
'jyX ^ never lose their leaves, and as the houses are by 
frequent white -washings kept perpetually white, 
the two most beautiful colors in landscape are 
constantly and beautifully blended together in 
undiminished lustre, and have an excellent effect 
upon the feelings of the beholder who ap- 
proaches the town; especially if he has, or 
expects to have a home, or some home-endeared 
little spot as his own future resting place, near 



FEOM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 65 

some of those shady trees, or brightly green 
arbors. 

Tangier is said to have been built by the 
Ancient Romans, and called by them Tingis. 
It is, according to Malham's Gazetteer, in North 
latitude, thirty-five degrees and forty-nine min- 
utes, and in West longitude from Greenwich, 
five degrees and fifty minutes. 

This town was colonized by the Eomans, 
and at different times it has belonged to 
Goths, Arabs and Portuguese. On the mar- 
riage of Charles II., King of England, with 
Catharine the Infanta of Portugal, in was given 
him as a part of her marriage dower, on January 
thirtieth, in the year one thousand six hundred 
and sixty-two. It was by the English, made a 
free port and considered a great acquisition to 
the nation. During the space of twenty-two 
years it was to them a heavy expense and 
trouble, on account of frequent and harassing 
attacks being made on it by the surrounding in- 
habitants, to whom it was finally abandoned in 
the year one thousand six hundred and eighty- 
four. Before the English left it they destroyed 
the fortifications, and the mole which had cost 
them immense sums of money and amount of 
labor. 



66 coos-coo-soo, or letters 

Since then it has remained in the possession 
of the Moors, who are as I understand their his- 
tory, the race of Mohammedans who formerly 
inhabited Spain, but being expelled from that 
kingdom they returned to Barbary, where they 
were resisted and opposed by the Breber race, 
who were once their own people, and they all sprang 
from Syrian forefathers, so that they are not ab- 
origines of Africa, and are not negroes but a 
white race. The Moors and Brebers are still 
two distinct races, although they have the same 
religion, the Mohammedan, and have been for 
many years living under the same government. 
The Moors occupy the walled towns and are the 
most civilized of the two races. The Brebers 
occupy the villages and remote mountainous 
districts ; they are divided into different tribes. 

Besides the Moors and Brebers there are a 
large proportion of Arabs, who move about from 
place to place in this country and live in tents, 
having no continuing abiding place anywhere. 

About one-fourth of the population of the 
walled towns is made up of the descendants of 
Israel, and of course are distinct from all the 
other surrounding people. 

There is a fine old castle which surmounts 
the high hill at the Western side of the town, 



FEOM TANGIER IN AFEICA. 67 

of Avliich I mean to trouble you with a descrip- 
tion some of these days, after having paid it a 
visit. It is a noble looking old structure with its 
ivy- twined towers, and grey-stone turrets. 

But ah, here come other ideas to crowd out 
from my mind's eye, the beauties of the scene 
around me ; they form the recollection of my 
mode of landing on this continent. 

The two living actors in that scene seized 
me, sat me by force upon a chair which they 
brought with them, and as quick as thought 
they hoisted me to the top of their broad and 
brawny shoulders, and carried me from the ves- 
sel to the sea-shore sand of Africa. 

They were two public porters of Tangier, and 
were Jews. There are here no wharves, or any 
other convenience for the landing of passengers, 
they have to be carried on shore by porters who 
wade through the mid-thigh deep water. Our 
bearers landed us on the beach in front of a long, 
low, white structure without windows. This we 
were told was the custom house. As there is 
very little commerce carried on by the natives, 
they do not need very extensive custom-house 
buildings. Walking forward we came to a large 
double gate, near which there is constantly sitting 
an old gate-keeper. During business hours he is 



68 coos-coo-soO; or letters 

surrounded by the captain of the port, and 
other custom-house officers, one or two talbs, 
who are their learned men, and several other dig- 
nitaries who there daily congregate, and as they 
sit on mats or sheep skins, they discuss the news 
of the times, and take a view of any strangers 
who may arrive or depart from the place. After 
we entered the outer gate, we ascended a steep 
alley or passage between two high walls, which 
led the way to the inner gate. Here we beheld 
a venerable old figure, which I am sure if once 
seen can never be forgotten ; he was clothed in 
robes of purest white, his beard was long and as 
white as his raiment. It extended nearly to his 
girdle ; in one hand he held a long wooden staff, 
on which he partly leaned, in his other hand he 
held a long 'black rosary. The beads of the 
rosary we were told were made of palm wood, 
they were black and polished very brightly; be- 
tween every 28 beads of wood there w^as a 
longer one of ivory. 

On one end of the rosary there was suspended 
a small white ivory comb, which was used only 
for combing the beard. 

The beard is held by the Moors in almost 
sacred veneration. There cannot be offered to 
them a greater or more despised insult than to 



FEOM TANGIEE IN AFRICA. 69 

pull or assault the beard. This venerable old 
man was devoutly counting his beads. In the 
course of his long life, he must have uttered a 
million prayers, for he was always praying. 

This old man had somehow learned to say in 
very plain English, 

" How do you do ?" 

Whenever any one of the English or United 
States nation passed him, he was in the habit of 
repeating the question in a loud clear voice. 
Whenever such passer-by happened to be the 
captain of a vessel, he would add the word Eice 
to his friendly salutation, as rice in his native 
language means captain. 

One day it happened that a heavy gale blow- 
ing from the East forced an American ship of 
the merchant service from the East Indies, bound 
to Gibraltar, to take shelter in the Bay of Tan- 
gier, there to remain until it should abate. As 
he was nearly out of water or provisions he 
came on shore to make the necessary arrange- 
ments for obtaining a fresh supply. As he en- 
tered the inner gate he was much surprised to 
hear the old gate-keeper exclaim, 

" How do you do Eice ?" 

" Well," said the captain to his companions, 
" I knew I was pretty well known in many 

6 



70 COOS-COO-SOO, OR LETTERS 

parts of the world, but I did not think I was 
known here in Tangier !" 

His name was Captain R,ice. 

After passing the inner gate, we came to a 
paved street on which stand the houses of the 
British, Portuguese and Spanish Consuls. It 
is kept cleanly swept by the servants of the 
Consuls, and is decidedly the only decent street 
in the whole town. The other streets are never 
swept, except by the winds and waters of the 
winters' tempests. But I must defer the re- 
mainder of our walk until my next letter. 

Yours sincerely, 

&c., &c. 



LETTER XL 

A FIEST WALK IN AFRICA, 

Tangier, Feb. 20thj 1 8 — . 

My Dearest Friend : 

The streets of Tangier are all very narrow, 
and very crooked, except two. One of these 
excepted ones is the street on which stand the 
three above named consular houses, and the 



FROM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 71 

other is the main street, which is about twenty 
feet wide. On it there are two or three large 
dwelling houses, and a great many of the Tan- 
gier shops or stores of merchandise. 

These shops are so small that they look like 
little closets. The shop-keeper can, and gene- 
rally does, sit in the middle, upon a mat, or 
tanned sheep or goat skin, on the brick or mor- 
tared floor, and then, without much effort, he 
can reach his goods with his hands from his 
shelves to his customers, who always while ex- 
amining or purchasing his goods, stand outside. 

There is not as much time spent in idle shop- 
ping in this town as there is in some places that 
w^e know of. 

Many of the streets are so narrow that a 
man can stand in the middle and touch the house 
walls with his hands on both sides. 

Here, with difficulty, two loaded donkeys can 
be made to pass each other. Many are the dis- 
putes and squabbles which take place between 
their drivers, as they squeeze along past each 
other. Two loaded camels cannot; one or the 
other has to back out. The altercations fre- 
quently carried on between the drivers of the 
beasts of burden in Tangier are sometimes very 
amusing to the beholders. They create a multi- 



72 coos-coo-soO; or letters 

tude of loud and angry words, and an infinity of 
violent gesticulations and threatened blows, but 
they generally end in words. The Tangierines 
seldom come to blows. If they cannot settle 
their disputes with words, they generally appeal 
to the law, and arrange them before the Judge, 
or the Governor of the town. 

Our walk from the town gates to the Consul's 
residence, where our future home was to be 
made, put to flight all the flattering ideas which 
we had conceived in favor of the beauty of the 
town when we were viewing it from a distance, as 
we sailed into the Bay of Tangier. The ma- 
jority of the streets through which we passed 
on this, our first walk in Africa, were so crooked 
that they seemed to be playing bo-peep with us, 
and to be ever and anon going entirely out of 
our sight by coming to an end against a high 
wall. 

When arrived at the wall, we would find 
there a short, narrow turn of the road, which 
would wind around the corner of the same high 
wall. In a short space we would meet with 
other similar turns. We thought we were being 
conducted home by the laclt way^ on account of 
our travelling gear and gait ; for a trip across 
the straits does not put a body in a very pre- 



FEOM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 73 

sentable guise. The back way ! We soon 
found that there were not any front ways be- 
longing to the town of Tangier. 

When we arrived within a few yards of the door 
of Mr. M.'s house we suddenly heard behind us one 
of the most hideous and unearthly sounds which 
we ever heard in our lives. It was uttered in a 
loud, shrill, piercing and powerful tone, which 
seemed to be partly a shriek of pain and partly 
a yell of menace. On looking behind us, we 
saw approaching, by long hasty strides of at 
least three feet in length, a tall, gaunt figure of 
a man. He was apparently six feet six inches 
high; his skin was dark and tawny, it was 
drawn tightly over his large bones, in a way to 
make him look as if he was only half fed. It 
was evidently as water-needy as his bones were 
unclothed by flesh. That he did not patronize 
the bath-tub or wash-basin could be plainly 
seen. A more foul looking man until then we 
had never seen. His head was entirely un- 
covered, and closely shaved all over except in 
one spot, from which was growing a long, plaited 
lock of tangled and soiled hair. His feet were 
bare, excepting their coat of dirt, and that was 
very thick, and of various colors. His body 
was entirely unclothed, with the exception of a 



74 coos-coo-soo, or letters 

long woollen haik wound round and round it, 
after a fashion of his own fancy. 

The same said haik looked as if it had been 
dragged through a mud pond and hung to dry 
upon his back — a dirtier place certainly could 
not be found. He strided on past us without 
raising his eyes from the ground, on which they 
were intently fixed, and still as he passed along 
up the street he ceased not his dreadful cries, 
nor his immensely hurried strides. 

" What is that ? " said I in great terror. 

I was answered, " It is only Seedy Sharkey, 
he is deranged, but he will not do any harm, he 
is perfectly innocent." 

Seedy Sharkey ! Sharkey enough he looked 
to be seedy of any or every thing that was fright- 
ful and disgusting. He looked quite too shark- 
ey for me to feel much confidence in his inno- 
cence, and every time his fiendish yell was re- 
poated I felt my heart quake until it beat 
against my throat, until I too was tempted to 
scream with terror, as fiercely as he was doing 
for his own amusement. Imagine if you can my 
dismay, when I found that his home was almost 
adjoining Mr. M.'s, in which I was now going to 
reside, and that he — the awful Seedy Sharkey, 



FKOM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 75 

was hereafter to be one of my nearest neigh- 
bors. 

I have since discovered to my astonishment, 
that this same Seedy Sharkey is the most high- 
ly revered and honored mortal man who lives in 
Tangier and its vicinity. And that we are con- 
sidered to be highly favored by Providence, in 
being privileged to reside so near to his dwell- 
ing. 

It is one of the Moorish fancies, (" and their 
name is legion,") that deranged people and idiots 
are the especial favorites of heaven, and that 
they are holy, above the commonality of man- 
kind. 

The veneration in which they are held is not 
far from their being idolized. But idolatry is 
not one of the sins of the Koran, or of the fol- 
lowers of Mohammed. The false prophet for- 
bids idolatry as strongly as the law of Moses does, 
and the followers of the former adhere to the let- 
ter of their law more strongly than we do. They 
will not have in their houses, either public or 
private, any kind of picture, or image of any 
kind of created nature. 

They honor and revere Mohammed, because 
they believe that he was the chosen prophet of 
God, to make known to mankind his law, but 



76 coos-coo-soo, or letters 

they do not worship him. When they pray it 
is true that they bow their faces towards the 
east — this they do, not in adoration of their pro- 
phet, but in conformity to a custom which was 
observed by their ancestors, even long before the 
days of Mohammed. He did not approve of it, but 
allowed it to be continued in pity of their love 
of an old habit, and in imitation of the Jews, 
who also bow their heads towards the east when 
they pray, yet they are not idolaters. 

Yours, affectionately, 

&c., &c. 



LETTER XII. 

AN AFRICAN FOUNTAIN AND GRAVE YARD. 

Tangier, Feb. 24th, 18 — . 

My Dear Friend : 

After we had rested and dined, we all 
went to walk to the Consul's garden, which is 
about a quarter of a mile beyond the town walls. 
After winding through several narrow and 
crooked streets, we came to the main one. Here 
we passed one of the public fountains. What a 



FROM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 77 

scene of human misery and of human comicaH- 
ties we there beheld ! 

In our country if a m n wants to know the 
character and habits of any town in which he 
may happen to " tarry for awhile," — he reads 
their newspaper, and by it he forms his opinion 
of them — if they have no newspaper, why of 
course he has to conclude that they are not worth 
the trouble of forming an opinion about. But, 
dear J., if you ever travel in this part of Africa, 
and if you want to know the habits and manners 
of your surrounders — do as I did to-day — take 
a stand near the public fountain, and watch the 
inhabitants obtain their supply of water, and you 
will at once be made acquainted with them. 

Alas ! alas ! most truly did I find that even 
here, in Africa, the " mighty dollar " was the 
one reigning monarch of all hearts. The poor 
and shabbily dressed Tangierines were rudely 
pushed aside by the stronger — stronger, because 
better fed part of the crowd of water-carriers. 
The way that some of the black-skinned, half 
naked, pure African-blooded little slaves dodged 
the sticks of the stronger and better-kept, full- 
grown, fat servants of the richer people, was con- 
vincing proof that young negroes will be young 



78 

negroes to perfection in Northern Africa as well 
as in the South of the United States. 

There were manifested among them the same 
rolling up of the whites of the full round eyes, 
the same mischief-loving leer and monkey-like 
capers, which are so characteristic of the darker 
skinned young negroes on our Southern planta- 
tions. 

Then, in that motley group, we saw one poor, 
half-starved and half-clothed Arab woman, with 
her babe tied in a dirty cloth on the bare back 
of one shoulder, while from the other she lower- 
ed an old black goat skin, which she brought to 
the fountain to be filled with water. It was 
very painful to see how she had to wait and 
stand apart from the rest, until the strong and 
the well fed were first supplied, and there she 
had to wait and wait, until perchance she and 
her child were both suffering from the pangs of 
prolonged thirst. Verily I saw there bravely 
imitated the sturdy oppression of the strong over 
the weak, which is too often a blot upon our own 
more civilized and highly favored fellow pilgrims 
in their graspings after the good things of this 
life. 

But alas, we saw a still more piteous and 
lamentable looking object approach with timid 



FEOM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 79 

and stealthy steps. He appeared to be afraid of 
every thing and every person he saw. In his 
abject humility he seemed a more melancholy 
and pitiable creature than was even that half- 
starved and half-clothed Arab woman. Here 
now we saw that she could have her revenge on 
a fellow mortal, and could triumphantly trample 
upon him, jostle him aside, and make him wait 
her pleasure to approach between her and the 
eagerly waited for water. We beheld how her 
sunken eye flashed upon him with scorn and 
hatred, by which she proved that her heart was 
not softened by her suffering. Who was it over 
whom even she, degraded, despised and starved 
as she was, could so domineer with disdain and 
trample upon as her inferior ? Who is he, do 
you ask ? He cannot be very poor, for he is 
well clothed, his garments are clean, neatly made, 
of fine materials, and are as good as new, his feet 
are well shod, with shining black slippers, his 
head is nicely sheltered beneath a fine woollen 
cap, with a long silk tassel dangling from the 
centre of its top. He shows too that he is well 
kept, for his face is full and ruddy, and he does 
not bear a soiled looking old skin, in which to 
carry the water, but gracefully poised upon his 
shoulder there is a large, red, clean looking 



80 COOS-COO-SOO, OK LETTEES 

earthen pitcher ; yes, all this was true, and 
moreover he was some rich man's favorite ser- 
vant ; yet, with all his favored circumstances, he 
must succumb and yield to the tyranny of the 
meanest, poorest, youngest and weakest Moham- 
medan of all that mean, poor and dirty fountain- 
side rabble of Tangierines — because he is a Jew. 

Remember, if your travels ever carry you to 
Barbary, and while there you want water brought 
to you in a hurry, not to send a Jew to the 
fountain to procure it, unless you can be content 
to wait a long time for it, or send him at some 
unseasonable hour, while the faithful followers 
of Mohammed are asleep, or eating, or praying. 

Sleeping, eating and praying are the three 
elements in which they exist. 

Near this fountain, in an Eastern direction, is 
the caravansary, where the camels and their 
drivers from the interior, on their trading expe- 
ditions to Tangier, are accustomed to lodge. 

It is simply a square, large space, surrounded 
by a high wall ; around the walls are rows of 
covered stalls, in which the drivers spread their 
beds and sleep, while their faithful and patient 
four-footed companions chew the cud, and rest 
their gauntly, awkward limbs around the stalls, 
on the bare ground, unlittered and unroofed. 



FROM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 81 

The drivers and traders from the interior 
bring their beds and cooking utensils with them. 

I remember when a child, while reading of 
Christ telling the man whom he had healed, to 
take up his bed and walk, my ignorant faith in 
the truth of the Bible was sorely tried. I asked 
myself the question, " How could a sick man, 
just cured, carry his bed ?" I now see that his 
bed was not heavy, as it was probably like these 
camel drivers', merely a mat or a skin. Thus 
too it will be in our future life, we will find many 
things, now " hard to be understood," which will 
then be as plainly explained to our understanding. 
Oh, that we may have confidence und resigna- 
tion given us, to wait in love, patience and faith 
until the full explaining time will be open to our 
view. 

After passing the caravansary, we walked 
through the southern gates of the town, and 
found ourselves in a large open space, in which 
we were told, the semi-weekly markets of food 
were held. As this was not a market day, we 
must defer our observations on that important 
subject until some other time. They hold their 
market days on Thursdays and Sundays. 

Think of that, will you ? A Sunday market- 
day ! 

7 



82 coos-coo-soO; or letters 

Alas, for my lost Sabbath day quietness and 
sweet repose. If quantity would make amends 
for quality, we would have no reason to com- 
plain, for we have here three holy days of rest 
in succession. 

Friday is the resting day of the Mohamme- 
dans, Saturday of the Jews, and Sunday of the 
few nominal Christians who reside here. 

As we passed through the market place we 
were amazed to see the great numbers of half- 
naked beggars, who were sitting and lounging 
idly about it on the bare ground, and huddled 
together in groups along the base of the town 
walls. Of regular clothing they were entirely 
destitute ; a few tattered, soiled and muddy- 
looking, old woollen rags were all the covering 
they possessed. They belonged almost exclu- 
sively to the Breber race, who apparently are 
distinct from the Moors who live in Tangier and 
other walled towns of Morocco. Their appear- 
ance is entirely different, and so are many of 
their customs; although they are followers of 
the same religious belief in the Koran, and live 
under the same government, and are all of them 
the loyal subjects of his imperial majesty, Muley 
Abdrahaman. His sway over them is absolutely 
despotic. He is the owner of their persons and 



FEOM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 83 

their property, if he chooses to carry out the 
powers with which he is invested. But his 
reign, when compared to that of some of his an- 
cestors, is mild and free from cruel tyranny. He 
appears to be well loved and respected by his 
subjects, as far as we can judge, upon our short 
acquaintance with them. 

While passing through the market place, we 
saw on one side of it a high stone wall, which 
we were told was the wall of the Swedish Con- 
sul's garden. On the left hand side of the mar- 
ket we saw a small square building, which is a 
saint-house, or sanctuary, and also a place " where 
prayer is wont to be made " by the devoutly in- 
clined Tangierines. 

From the market place we entered a public 
road, which was surrounded on both sides by the 
public Moorish cemetery of Tangier. 

It is of immense size, and probably has been 
in use many centuries. It is entirely uninclosed. 
In some places the road is much lower than the 
surface of the grave-yard. In those places may 
sometimes be seen the bones of the dead of other 
ages, peeping out from the dry, sandy soil which 
surrounds them. The lines of bones are lying 
tier over tier. 

The remains of deceased humanity are held in 



84 coos-coo-soo, or letters 

sacred veneration by the Moors, and whenever 
one of them discovers a projecting bone exposed 
to view, he will immediately push it in and cover 
it up with earth as well as he can with his hands. 
He will be very much displeased if a Christian 
will touch, or even look at them. Yet such is 
the inconsistency and want of enterprise among 
these strange people, that, though they will not 
go to the trouble of properly securing the bones 
of their ancestors from exposure, they will be 
offended if a stranger will presume to look at 
them or acknowledge that he sees them. 

A Jew is not allowed to walk along this road 
or on any other holy ground, with his shoes on 
his feet, but must carry them either in his hands 
or pockets. 

But my p^per is filled and I must now put 
away my pen until to-morrow. Wishing you 
may be favored with pleasant dreams, not of 
grave-yards and bare bones, I must bid you good- 
night, for the muedden is warning me by his 
cries from the nearest mosque tower, that my 
hour for rest has arrived. Until the dawn of 
another day, adieu. 

Yours sincerely, 

&c., &c. 



FEOM TANGIER IN AFEICA. 85 



LETTER XIII. 

A WALK TO AN AFRICAN GARDEN. 

Tangier, Feb. 26th, 1 8— 

My Dear Friend : 

We continued our walk over the road, 
which runs through the public cemetery, and as 
we did so, we met several groups of Moors ; as 
we passed them they placed their hand upon 
their hearts and said to us, 

"Aleikum Salaam." 

Our little party answered them by saying — 

" Salaam Aleikum." These words mean, 

" Peace be with you." 

Sometimes we met small parties of Moorish 
women, who were fully enveloped in their large 
white woollen haiks, from under which nothing 
but their large black eyes could be seen. 

The only notice they bestowed upon us was to 
draw their haiks still more tightly over their faces. 
Then again we sometimes met a few Jews. Stock- 
ings are never worjlin this country by either Jews 
or Moors. The Jewish men wear black morocco 
shoes or slippers, the male Moors wear yellow, and 
the females of both races wear red ones . The Jew- 



86 coos-coo-soo, oe lettees 

esses are very fond of having theirs embroidered 
with silk or gilt, and silvered thread, sometimes 
they wear them made of rich crimson or purple 
silk-velvet. They dearly love to have a hand- 
some and expensive pair of slippers. 

A male Moor when fully equipped for riding 
on horseback, wears a pair of long yellow mo- 
rocco boots which reach to his knees, but when 
he walks he wears only the yellow slippers. They 
all remove their slippers from their feet when they 
enter a house. To enter a room with their feet 
covered, would be among themselves a rude 
breach of etiquette. 

When we arrived within a short distance of 
Mr. M.'s garden to which we were going, we 
saw walking before us three persons attired in 
European style, who were followed by a finely 
dressed Moorish soldier as their guard. 

One of the three Europeans we were informed 
is a young French nobleman, who for some po- 
litical offence against his own government, has 
been exiled from his own home, where his large 
property was taken from him by confiscation. 
He has been living for the last six or eight 
months in Tangier, where he is supporting him- 
self by teaching. At his side walked a beauti- 
fully formed young lady, who is the only daugh- 



FEOM TANGIER IK AFRICA. 87 

ter of a family from the North of Europe. This 
Miss A. 0., we are told, is extremely handsome, 
and greatly beloved by all who know her. She 
has two brothers, one of whom was then walk- 
ing with her. She is the idol of them and of 
their fond parents, who have hired this young 
Frenchman to give her the finishing touches of 
her knowledge of the French language, and for 
the purpose of allowing him more fully an op- 
portunity of doing so, they permit her to walk 
out with him and to receive his visits at home ; 
in short he almost lives under the same roof 
that covers her own residence. 

Her figure was so interesting and her move- 
ments were so graceful as she glided on slowly 
before us, that I felt a strong desire to overtake 
her, that I might enjoy the pleasure of seeing 
her fair face, and of being introduced to her. 
For which purpose I tried to hurry forward and 
to overtake her. But Mr. M. would not second 
my motion, on the contrary he actually slack- 
ened his, and I was obliged to yield to necessity 
and give up my chase after beauty. 

Before we came within a few yards of them 
they suddenly all disappeared ! 

" Oh," I exclaimed, " where have they gone ?" 

'' Into the Danish Consul's garden" answered 



88 coos-coo-soO; or letters 

Mr. M., " which is near mine and here we are at 
our own garden gate." 

Mr. M. then knocked with his walking cane 
a few hard raps on the gate, and it was opened 
by his gardener. Upon entering we found our- 
selves in a very pleasant place, which covered 
about two acres of well cultivated ground, that 
was also well watered and shaded. We saw it 
fenced on two sides and a half, by high and 
thick hedges of native canes, their long, narrow, 
floating leaves rustled merrily in the wind, and 
gleamed brightly and gaily in the beams of the 
declining sun. They are very beautiful, these 
gay cane hedges, they wear their pale living 
verdure all the year, and grow very fast. The 
other side and a half were hedged with the 
African aloes, or as some call them the century- 
plant ; these formed a strong contrast with the 
cane hedges, with their long, stiff, thorn-tipped 
and spiry leaves. 

Mr. M. pointed out to our notice some of the 
aloes, which he said would bloom next summer. 
If I live no see their blossoms I will drop you a 
note about them, and then may you be so much 
pleased with it, as to think I merit a good long 
letter in answer. I am already anxiously desir- 
ing to hear from you again. Oh, how wearisome 



FKOM TAl^-GIER Il>( AFEICA. 89 

are the heart-yearnings, which I feel ever toss- 
ing up their surging billows of love towards 
my far distant native home ; would that we 
could all feel the same degree of intense affec- 
tion towards that happy place which is eternal 
in the heavens ! 

There are three springs in Mr. M/s garden^ 
but he says that their waters are not fit to 
drink. The trees which shade these three 
springs with their waving leaves, are the orange, 
olive, pear, lemon and pomegranate. There are 
also in this garden a few peach trees, which Mr. 
M. has imported from America, but they do not 
thrive. At one time he was so anxious to pos- 
sess at least one peach tree in full bearing, that 
he went to the trouble of bringing a portion of 
peach orchard soil all the way from America, by 
way of experiment, but it did not prove suc- 
cessful, the tree still droops. I stood upon that 
same little spot of American ground, here on the 
African continent, which in my weary feeling of 
home sickness was a little satisfaction. But I 
must bid you adieu for the present, and again 
defer the continuation of our walk in, and from 
the garden. 

Yours, affectionately, 

&c., &c. 



90, COOS-COO-SOO; OR LETTEES 



LETTER XIY. 

FSiriT TREES.— AN AFEICAN WAY TO ''MILK THE COW." 

Tangier, Feb. 28 th, 18—. 

My Dear Friend : 

As you are an admirer of flowers, you 
will read with patience all that I will find time 
to write about them. The prickly-pear, Indian 
fig, or cactus opuntia, here grows to the height of 
five or six feet, and bears a delicious fruit. 

Hedges are sometimes formed of it. Some of 
the leaves are eighteen inches long and an inch 
and a half thick. If the fruit is eaten early in 
the morning, before the rays of the sun shine on 
it, it is very 'cool and refreshing ; after the 
thorny rind is peeled off, the fruit is of a dark 
orange color, the rind is similar to the leaves, 
and is equally as full of those annoying bunches 
of little thorns which give the plant the name of 
the prickly-pear. 

It requires some skilful practice to succeed 
in removing the rind of the fruit, without getting 
one's fingers filled with the thorns. When they 
are so filled, the only means by which they can 



FEOM TANGIER IN AFEIOA. 91 

be removed is to rub the hands all over with dry 
sand or finely pulverized earth. 

When the leaves of the plant are dead, the 
pulp all dries away from between the firmer 
woody fibres of which they are composed, and 
these form a very beautiful piece of lace or net 
work, which can be split open a great many 
times, and when so split, they form a tasty ma- 
terial for making fancy boxes and baskets. 

The Consul's daughters sometimes amuse 
themselves by making such articles from it for 
keepsakes. But they are too brittle to be of 
much real service. 

The aloe leaves are far more useful ; the fibres 
of the dried aloe leaves make a very strong, 
smooth and white thread, which is here used by 
the natives for sewing. In Spain it is manufac- 
tured into a handsome and delicate looking 
texture for ladies' dresses, and although it is 
very thin and light, it is so strong that it Avill 
wear as long as some silk goods. It is capable 
of receiving the most beautiful and delicate tints 
by dyeing. It seems strange that it is not more 
extensively made and worn in all places where 
the aloe can be easily grown. 

The orange trees in this country are very fine, 
large and abundantly fruitful. By proper man- 



92 coos-coo-soO; or letters 

agement of grafts they are made to produce two 
crops a year. It is no very rare sight to see 
trees with the one half of their wide spreading 
limbs covered with ripe fruit, and the other half 
fully enveloped in a richly perfumed white cloud 
of freshly opened blossoms. 

And such fruit as some of it is, out-rivals every- 
thing that you ever tasted from Havana or 
Florida. Oranges cannot be exported and eaten 
in the perfection of their true and native deli- 
ciousness. I wish you were here to enjoy with 
us some of the exquisitely flavored ones which 
are so luxuriously growing around us— yea, that 
are even lying in their abundance, decaying un- 
cared for on the ground beneath our feet. 

The pomegranates are very beautiful trees, 
and so are their rosy-tinted fruit and crimson 
flowers, but like a great many very handsome 
people, their beauty is all external, and forms 
too often their only recommendation. Still they 
are beautiful, and will ever be both admired and 
very much loved. 

We walked and sauntered about the garden 
until nearly sunset, and then we were very 
much amused by viewing the gardener milk the 
cow. As cow's milk, unmixed with that of 
other domestic animals, cannot always be pro- 



FKOM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 93 

cured in the Tangier marketiT, Mr. M. keeps his 
own cow, and has for her use a small patch of 
pasture in one corner of his garden. 

It is a part of the gardener's business to milk 
the coWj and carry her milk every evening to 
Mr. M.'s house. One of the many droll ideas of 
these very droll people, is, that a cow cannot be 
milked unless her calf is at the same time feast- 
ing at one portion of her milk-givers, while ano- 
ther one is yielding its contents to the manipu- 
lations of her keeper. The milk is received into 
a narrow-mouthed earthen jar, which the man 
must hold quite close to the cow's side, or the 
stream of milk cannot reach it ; thus he must 
hold the jar with one hand while he milks with 
the other, and also while the calf is running a 
race with him in the operation with all its might. 
The man meanwhile does his part, as if he felt 
that he is committing an act of highway robbery, 
and is fully under the impression that he will 
infallibly be kicked flat on the ground by the 
cow's heels, or be sent floating high up in the 
air over it by a well directed aim of her horns, 
to punish him for his flagrant and unpardonable 
dishonesty. 

They never kill a lamb, a kid or a calf, and 

these privileged youngsters are allowed to reap 

8 



94 coos-coo-soo, oe letteks 

their infantile treasures by taking all the milk 
they can get^ until the fountain which supplies 
it is exhausted. The natural consequence is, 
that milk is very scarce. 

Gamers milk is considered to be a great deli- 
cacy, but the young camel also is never weaned, 
except by nature. 

By the time the man was through with his (to 
us) amusing operation of half milking the cow, 
the sun was upon the brink of the western hori- 
zon, and Mr. M. said that Ave must go towards 
home or we would be shut out of the town gates. 
Oh, these worrisome town gates, will I ever be 
used to their annoying and tyrannical inflic- 
tion ! I would so much have loved to have 
roved and rambled among the orange and pome- 
granate groves of that lovely garden until the 
moon would arise, and illumine with her silvery 
rays their rustling leaves, but — the town gates 
— oh, the hateful town gates must enclose us 
within their prison-like locks, and we must leave 
the moon-lighted leaves, to the (by us) unshared 
enjoyment of the old cow and her young calf, 
the half of whose supper had been robbed from 
it to form a part of our own evening meal. 

As we passed the gate of the Danish Consul's 
garden, on our homeward walk, I could not help 



FEOM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 95 

wishing that we might have the pleasure of see- 
ing Miss A. 0. come out of it, but in vain, she 
did not make her appearance. Under the dis- 
appointment I was consoled with the hope that 
very soon I would meet and become acquainted 
with her. I naturally considered that where 
there were so few nominal Christians living to- 
gether in a place like this, so completely shut 
out from the rest of the civilized world, they 
would often meet in friendly intercourse. The 
manner in which this hope also failed me, must 
form the subject of a future letter from 

Yours affectionately, 

&c., &c. 



LETTER XY. 

SEEDY SHARKEY. 

Tangier, Feb. 29th, 1 8 — . 

My Dear Friend : 

About an hour after our return home 
from Mr. M.'s garden, the full moon was fairly 
risen over the hills of Cape Malabat, which form 
the eastern boundary of the Tangier Bay. 

We stood at the window and watched the 
playing of her beams upon the waves of the ever- 



96 coos-coo-soo, or letters 

moving sea, and in admiration of their beautiful 
light I proposed to walk on the terrace or flat 
over the top of the house, that we might enjoy 
a wider view of the quiet and splendid scenery. 
But Mr. M. put a peremptory veto upon any 
such indulgence of my wishes. He said that the 
dew of the night was particularly injurious to 
new-comers, and that we must not, on any ac- 
count, expose ourselves to its evil effects. I re- 
mained at the window, gazing in admiring rap- 
ture at the moon and brightly illumined waves, 
and listening to their gentle murmurings as they 
broke over the sand and stones of the shore. 
Their sound was the only one which then broke 
the solemn — stilly silence of the cool and plea- 
sant night air. 

I was beginning to feel rebellious against the 
restraints laid' upon me, and I felt as if I would 
soon resolve to break through them all, and take 
the liberty of walking out somewhere to enjoy 
more extensively the novelty of my rare sur- 
roundings. 

Just then, my rebellious thoughts were, with 
my ardent wishes after more widely extended 
freedom of action, all suddenly put to flight, by 
hearing the awful sound of Seedy Sharkey's voice, 
as he came striding and yelling up our street. 



FKOM TANGIER IN AFRICA, 97 

Liberty ! Freedom of action ! — I then felt as 
if I would be willing to creep into any place — I 
would not care how narrow or how dark it might 
be, to get away from that terrible sound. 

The next morning, while we were eating 
breakfast, we were informed that Seedy Sharkey 
had at dawn of day departed on one of his long 
journeys, and that probably he might not return 
home for weeks or months, as he generally spent 
the greater part of his time away from home ; he 
was kindly treated wherever he went. His chief 
pleasure seemed to be taken in yelling aloud and 
in sitting and walking about the different ceme- 
teries in different parts of the land. In his 
habits they say that he is very abstemious, 
although he could live on the fat of the land, if 
he would accept the one-half of the good things 
of this life which the people are always willing 
to bestow upon him. 

What a happy relief it is to think that we are 
for a time at least, released from the direful 
noise of his terrifying voice. 

Yours affectionately, 

&c., &c. 
8* 



COOS-COO-SOO, OR LETTERS 



LETTER XVI. 

CONSULAR ETIQUETTE. 

Tangier, March ^d, 1 8 — . 

My Dear Friend : 

A few days after our arrival, Mr. M. 
received a note of invitation to spend the even- 
ing at the house of the parents of Miss A. 0. 

He declined going and gave as his reason for 
doing so that he was engaged with company at 
home. I felt very sorry that we were not in- 
cluded in the invitation, as I was so exceedingly 
anxious to see Miss A. 0. 

Mr. M. then explained to me that all the in- 
tercourse between the Consuls and their families 
was carried bn with more regard to ceremony 
and etiquette than to pleasure, and the enjoy- 
ment of each other s society. Also that I need 
not expect any invitation until after I had been 
visited formally, and until all received calls 
should be as ceremoniously returned, and that I 
need not expect to receive any calls for several 
weeks after my arrival. 

How tantalizing all this was to my feelings, 
and to reflect that I must not expect to see Miss 



TEOM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 99 

A. 0. until her parents saw proper to pay us an 
unmeaning and ceremonious call, while I am so 
very anxious to become acquainted with her ! 

I am told that she speaks the English lan- 
guage quite fluently, that she is highly accom- 
plished, and possesses a finely cultivated mind, 
(fee, (fee, &c. In short I am constantly being 
told so many fine things about her, that I feel 
as if I love her as much as I could do, if I had 
seen and known her all the days of her life. 
And yet to think that my meeting with her 
must be postponed for weeks, and perhaps for 
months on account of an idle and unmeaning 
ceremony ! And that too, here in Africa ! In 
this darkened corner of the earth where Euro- 
pean society is scarcer than grains of gold. 
Truly when I think thereupon, 1 am out of all 
patience, then while thus feeling out of patience 
I want to run out and take a refreshing walk 
on yonder broad beach, or to saunter out to the 
garden hoping that I might again see her and 
her teacher taking their daily walk. 

But although my morning duties are all dis- 
charged, and though there is yet a full hour be- 
tween now and dinner time, I want so much to 
spend that hour somewhere upon the green earth, 
I am coolly told that I cannot go out to walk be- 



100 GOOS-COO-SOO; OR LETTERS 

cause the guard is not ready to attend me, and 
that he will not be until after dinner ! 

Oh, how weariedly oppressed we are by cere- 
mony, etiquette, guards and town-gates ! But 
after awhile we settled down to be satisfied 
with our quiet ante-dinner promenade upon the 
house-top, and we there one day resolved that 
before we were a year older, we would have a 
little garden of our own growing up there on 
that same old house-top. If we were not al- 
lowed to find friends to love, nor liberty to take 
" our walks abroad," just when we felt the need 
of them, we must have some flowers to cheer 
us with then- silent but beautiful companionship, 
in the absence of all other social joys and plea- 
sures ; them we hope to be able to love and ad- 
mire without being obliged to stop and consult 
the convenienc^e of town-gates, lazy guards, un- 
seasonable dinner hours and all the cold and 
nipping laws of ceremony and etiquette ! 
Yours, affectionately, 

&c., &c. 






FROM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 101 



LETTER XVII. 

AN AFRICAN RAIN. A FAMINE AND ITS VICTIMS. 

Tangier, March iSth^ i8 — . 

My Dear Friend : 

I wish some of our Philadelphia rainy- 
day grumblers were here to be cured of their 
discontent with having to live through a rain of 
some two or three days. 

It has been raining incessantly night and day, 
during the last two weeks. And they tell me it 
very often continues to rain in the same style 
throughout the space of four and six weeks. The 
other night the rain entered my room in such 
torrents through the ceihng that I was obliged 
to rest in another apartment. What are we to 
do for want of exercise and fresh air ? I feel 
tempted to do as the natives do when they can- 
not help it — go through it. 

Yet incredible as it seems, the people of this 
land never use umbrellas. The Emperor is the 
only native in the whole nation who is ever shel- 
tered from the rain by an umbrella, and he never 
appears in public, in sunshine or rain, without 
having one held over him by an officer, who is 



102 

especially appointed for that purpose ; the um- 
brella is the main mark or sign of royalty. 

When the Emperor can claim to be in a direct 
line, a descendant of the prophet, he is privileged 
to be sheltered by a green one, when he cannot, 
a red one is used. 

When we are walking out, it frequently occurs 
that some simple son or daughter of the country 
will watch for an opportunity, and ask leave to 
stand a moment under our sun-umbrellas, and 
when the easily granted favor is given to him or 
her, the gift of a bag of gold w^ould not, I verily 
believe, be received with greater pleasure. 

But to return to the watery subject, with 
which I began this letter ; it has now rained 
night and day for the last two weeks. During 
all that time we have walked nowhere out of 
doors, not even on the dear old house top, which 
we have already learned to love, as a pleasant 
retreat from the fatigue and labor of our in-door 
engagements. We now begin to feel as if we 
cannot much longer endure this irksome confine- 
ment to the under-roof circle. 

We have umbrellas and are permitted to carry 
them as much as we please. But of what use 
are they ? The wind blows so strongly that 
the labor of holding on to the umbrella is more 



FEOM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 103 

fatiguing, and worse than being exposed to the 
falling rain. 

We gain but little dryness by remaining within 
the house, as the rain by spells, pours from the 
ceiling all around us, and we are obliged to be 
surrounded with tubs, pans and deep dishes to 
catch the water, and prevent our floors from 
being flooded. The roofs of the Tangier houses 
are constantly being washed out of repair. Our 
walking clothes by reason of the long rest they 
are having, and of the dampness which surrounds 
them, are actually mouldy. 

Some of the Consuls and their families go out 
in the rain, and others do not. 

The rainy season commences in October and 
lasts till April, so that the year is divided into 
the dry and rainy seasons. There is never any 
frost here, yet the weather on account of its ex^ 
trenie dampness, is very chilly. Chills and fever 
sometimes prevail, but they are not as coiiimon 
as they are in the United States. 

We had a call this morning from one of the 
Consuls from the North of Europe. Mr. A. E. 
is a very gentlemanly official, and exceedingly 
polite in his manners. When he first came in 
he was so much excited that he could scarcely 
wish us good morning, or inquire after our wel- 



104 COOS-COO-SOO; OR LETTERS 

fare, before he commenced to explain to us the 
reason of the violent excitement from which he 
was suffering. He had, on his way from his 
garden to the town, seen a terrible sight — it was 
one child eating the flesh of another, and the 
wounded one was so benumbed with cold and 
hunger, as to be insensible to the gnawing of the 
flesh from its bones. A little girl belonging to 
the crowd of starving beggars outside of the 
town walls, about ten years of age, was carrying 
a younger child upon her back, after their fash- 
ion, and the carried child was so overcome with 
hunger, that he saw it actually eating the flesh 
of its bearer. 

The sufferings of these poor creatures are 
awful. 

It appears that in their roving life, wandering 
as they do from place to place, they never lay 
up any provision for future use over what is ne- 
cessary to supply their wants from one harvest 
to another, so that when there is a failure of 
their crops, they are in a state of famine. Last 
year the season was so dry, and there fell so 
little rain during the winter, that the planted 
grain did not grow, and they, for that year, had 
no harvest, and are now suffering all the unima- 
ginable horrors of famine. They have, in their 



FROM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 105 

present dis tress, flocked in large numbers to the 
sea-port towns, and are now in starving beggary, 
crouching around the walls of the towns. 

As the crops last year failed all over the em- 
pire, and as the little wheat which was in store 
here, and the flour that has been brought from 
Gibraltar, are both sold at very high prices, 
there is not much chance of the starving stran- 
gers from the interior of the country, obtaining 
enough to relieve their hopeless condition. .As 
they are too poor to purchase the food they need, 
they depend entirely upon begging for a living. 
Being as they unfortunately are, so very nume- 
rous, the supplies given them by charity, are of 
course very scanty in proportion to the number 
of the receivers. At present it is quite a com- 
mon thing to see them dying with hunger, and 
too far gone towards their last moment to have 
strength to en t when food is given them ; thus 
they frequently die on the street. 

One day a man was found dead lying near our 
door, with a whole loaf of bread under his head 
for a pillow — it had been given too late to save 
his life, but no doubt he died more easily with 
it under his head. The terrible sight of their 
skeleton-looking faces, is the only thing which 



9 



106 COOS-COO-SOO; OR LETTEES 

reconciles me to the imprisonment that this long 
continued rain has imposed upon us. 

We see enough of them here, under our win- 
dows, where they come very frequently, but they 
do not look so dreadfully heart-rending when 
they present themselves to our view in pairs or 
small groups, as they do when they are seen by 
the scores and hundreds outside of the town 
walls, where they sit on the mud with the rain 
pouring down on their more than half-naked 
bodies. 

Do you ask me, 

"Why do not the authorities provide them Avith 
" places of shelter ? " 

The authorities argue that if they would do 
•so, they would pour into the towns from the in- 
terior in such multitudes, that they would soon 
outnumber th^ regular inhabitants; and that as 
soon as they would find themselves the stronger 
of the two people, they would massacre all the 
Moorish citizens and take possession of the 
towns. 

The Moors will not allow them to spend even 
one night within the town gates, and if they at 
any time find they are becoming unsafely nume- 
rous in the neighborhood, the Governor issues a 
proclamation, that they must immediately depart 



FEOM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 107 

from the town altogether. Thus the poor 
wretches are driven about from town to town, 
and will so continue until the end of the present 
rainy season. 

Some time ago, one of the English Consul's 
daughters undertook to give them all a loaf of 
bread a-piece every morning, at her own expense 
and with her own hands, from her father's win- 
dow. 

After she had done so several days, the Gov- 
ernor sent her word that she must stop doing so, 
or she would cause an insurrection in the town, 
and that if she did not at once cease giving bread 
to the beggars, she and her father would have to 
leave the place immediately. Not wishing to be 
the means of producing a public breach of the 
peace in any way, the fair lady was obliged to 
discontinue her kind and charitable donations. 

Oh, how sad it is to see the poor creatures 
dying for the want of food ! The agonizing ex- 
pression of their countenances is terrible and 
harrowing beyond description. Being too weak 
to walk far at a time, they crawl about from spot 
to spot in a slow, snail-like pace, and then sink 
down in the street mud under our w^indows 
and moan out in a whining and melancholy tone 
of voice, these words, 



108 COOS-COO-SOO, OR LETTERS 

" Aliil alghasnah aah lamumeeneen ghetsuna 
haley arrabu !" 

" Ohj ye of humanity^ oh, ye faithful, give us 
alms for the sake of the Lord!"" 

My heart is kept constantly on the rack in 
compassion for their forlorn condition. Oh, that 
I had the power to transport them all to our 
warm almshouses on the other side of the Atlan- 
tic ! And how ardently I wish that these peo- 
ple could be taught to receive the love and faith 
of the blessed Messiah into their hearts, which 
would move them to feel for the necessities of 
their fellow creatures, and to devise some plan 
by which their awful miseries might be de- 
creased. 

But alas, while they shut their hearts and 
eyes against his love and law, they will be as 
tightly shut against all the miseries of their 
brethren ! 

But the koran is their bane. 

The koran with its usurped imitation of the 
true word of God ; with its professed declaration 
of being God's revealed will to man ; with its 
(in part,) moral code of w^holesome and beneficial 
laws, is blindly fortifying them against the ad- 
mission into their hearts of every ray of light, 
which but for it, might be allowed to beam upon 



FEOM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 109 

them from the sublime heights of Mount Cal- 
vary. 

Alas for them ! 

They will not be preached to " of the truth 
as it is in Jesus." 

Their time for that has not come yet. But it 
cannot now be very far distant. 

When Mr. A. E. was here this morning, he 
also brought us other bad news. He informed 
us that Miss A. 0. is very sick, and has been so 
for several weeks. As no one of her family has 
yet called on us, ceremony forbids our going to 
see her, however much we may wish to do so. 

How pleasant it would be to spend a few 
hours each day by endeavoring to cheer her in 
her sickness. We have heard so little of the 
English language spoken since we have been- 
here, that it would be a great treat to converse 
with her in that familiar, dear old tongue. 

I now feel more anxious than ever to hear 
from her, and I long to go and inquire how she 
is, but — ceremony forbids it — oh, how much 
suffering has ceremony to answer for ! 

Yours truly, 

&c., &c. 



110 COOS-COO-SOO, OE LETTEES 



LETTER XVIII. 

THE FLOWERS. BEGGARS' BREAD. GRAVE ROBBER. 

Tangier, April 8 th, i8 — . 

My Dear Friend : 

The rains are now becoming "few and 
far between," and we occasionally have a foAV 
hours of clear sunshine. How delightful it is to 
see once more the clear blue sky ! 

April in Africa (at least in this part,) is very 
much like April in Pennsylvania — made up of 
showers and sunshine, only that the showers 
are heavier, and the sunshine is warmer and 
brighter here than there. And the flowers — 
you never saw such a profusion of flowers as 
now cover the fields and roads of this fertile 
country ! Tliey form a carpet of the richest 
and most varied tints, in such immense quanti- 
ties that their blossoms almost cover up the 
grass and leaves that grow between them. The 
roving beggars by whom we are still surrounded, 
have found a substitute for bread. The plants 
commonly called Indian turnips, are now grow- 
ing in great abundance all over the country; they 
dig up their roots, cut them into small pieces 
about the size of coflee berries, spread them out 



FEOM TANGIER IK AFRICA: 111 

in the sun to dry, then grind them in their 
hand-mills. They scald the ground roots, then 
mix them with water into small cakes and bake 
them. The fields in the neighborhood of the 
town, look as if a large drove of swine had been 
rooting up the ground. Poor souls, how much 
like brutes they do live ! They are now less 
numerous than they were a month ago, which 
is a great relief to our ears, eyes, feelings and 
— our purses. 

A few days after the date of my last letter, 
while the poor creatures were still at the height 
of their multiplied miseries, thore was in the 
Tangier cemetery the funeral of a rich Moor. 
As the corpse was buried in a goodly amount of 
fine muslin wrappings, a few hours after the 
funeral, one of the starving beggars who was a 
largely built young man, robbed the newly 
filled grave of the said rich Moor. lie was de- 
tected in the act of concealing the muslin on 
his person, intending to sell it to procure some 
food with the money he should receive for it. 
He was immediately hailed by the witnesses to 
meet them before the Judge, who without any 
delay condemned him to death by stoning, and 
he was at once delivered over to the will of the 
infuriated rabble of the town. 



112 COOS-COO-SOO, OR LETTERS 

The operation of stoning liim instantly com- 
menced — he ran as long as he was able trying to 
escape from his pursuers, which was only a short 
time, and when he could no longer run, or even 
walk, they dragged him to that part of the town 
wall which is built on the brink of the sea, at 
the base of which there are many large, rough 
stones, there they threw him over; as he fell his 
brains were scattered upon them, and very soon 
his poor broken body was washed out to sea. 

This they say, is the first public execution of 
a criminal that has occurred here for more than 
ten years. We may well rejoice at the depar- 
ture of the poor creatures from our midst. 

This afternoon while returning from our walk 
to the garden, we met a procession of men who 
were carrying an article that proved to be a 
plain, unpainted and unvarnished wooden bier, 
on its way to the cemetery. On the bier was 
lying an uncoffined corpse. The men were 
walking very fast and this is in fact the only 
occasion on which they are ever in a hurry — 
when they bury their dead. They never allow 
two suns to shine upon a corpse. 

If a person dies before sunset on one day, 
they think he or she must be buried before the 
rising of the next morning's sun. 



FEOM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 113 

As tliey walked along they sang, 

" La Elaahlah Mohammed arrazul Elaahlah." 

" There is hut one God and Mohammed is the 
Prophet of God!' 

These words they chanted over and over again, 
in a low and monotonous tone, all the way from 
the door of the dwelling place of the deceased? 
until they arrived at the side of the grave. 

The Moors do not generally use any regularly 
made coffin, but lower the corpse into the grave 
on a board, place two other boards at its sides 
and then cover them with another. 

The Arabs substitute aloe leaves for boards 
during these hard times. They place a layer of the 
aloe leaves in the grave, lower the dead on them 
and then spread over it another layer of the 
same leaves, then fill the grave with earth. It 
is probable that the Arabs, and the other coun- 
try people around us, use boards whenever they 
are able to buy them. 

On account of the scarcity of lumber, boards 
are very dear. The consuls when building their 
houses, are obliged to bring the required lumber 
from the North of Europe. I believe there are 
not ten acres of wood-land within ten or twelve 
miles of Tangier. The surrounding hills and 
fields are entirely bare of trees, except here and 



114 

there a few fig, orange, olive and other fruit 
trees growing in the gardens, but wild forest 
trees are things that I have not yet met with. 
Their absence gives the country a tame and 
lack-lustre aspect, nothing can supply their place 
in the beauty and adornment of a landscape. 

To-day we have been credibly informed of the 
cause of Miss A. O.'s sickness. A few days after 
we saw her walking out to the Danish Consul's 
garden with her brother and French teacher, the 
latter gentleman had the presumption to ask her 
parents to permit him to marry their daughter. 

The inexperienced youth forgot the change 
which existed in his circumstances, and that he 
was not now upon a social footing of equality 
with the young lady whose hand he sought. 
He thought only of her exqusite beauty, and of 
the ardent love which it had produced in his af- 
fectionate young heart. He forgot that the 
property — the broad acres and the bright pal- 
aces which once were his, were now owned by 
others, and that he was so poor as to be depen- 
dent upon his own exertions for a living — in 
short he forgot — everything except his ardent 
and sincere youthful love. Who could blame 
him, seeing and conversing with her day after 
day as he did ? But unfortunately for him 



FEOM TANGIER IN AFEICA. 115 

and his fair young captivator, her parents forgot 
the only thing which he remembered — love to 
her^ and they remembered that which he utterly 
forgot — ^his poverty. They well knew that in real 
rank he was their superior, and that in talents, 
education and moral rectitude of character he 
was fully her equal. But all these things they 
also forgot and remembered only that he was poor. 

The answer which he received from them was his 
passport, (sealed and signed) to Gibraltar, which 
he was requested to put into immediate use, and 
received with it from his employer the command 
to depart at once and forever from Tangier. 

As he was here under the protection of Mr. 
0., and disowned as a fellow citizen by the Con- 
sul of his own government, and knowing it 
would be in vain to appeal for protection to any 
other Consul, or to claim it from the Moors, he 
was obliged to obey the tyrannical mandate and 
to depart from the town in a boat which was 
just ready to sail for Gibraltar. 

It is now striking the hour of midnight, and 
is therefore better to defer the conclusion of this 
matter until to-morrow evening. 

Hastily and lovingly yours, 

&c., &c. 



116 COOS-COO-SOO; OR LETTERS 



LETTER XIX. 

TANGIER MUEDDEN. WALK ON THE HOUSE-TOP. 

Tangier, April 15 th, 18 — . 

My Dear Friend : 

The unfortunate young Frenchman em- 
barked for Gibraltar, where we do not know 
what ever became of him. We only know that 
he was forced to leave here without a farewell 
interview with Miss A. 0., and that on that same 
day, she was taken sick with a violent fever. 
She went to bed, and never again raised herself 
from it. 

About three days ago she died, and to-day she 
w^as buried. Her coffin was enveloped in the 
flag of her naition. Her brothers attended her 
funeral, but her parents did not leave their own 
private apartment and were invisible to all call- 
ers. Four of the Consuls walked beside her 
coffin as pall-bearers. She was borne to the 
grave by four Europeans, who were followed by 
the male members of the different consular fami- 
lies. There were no females present either at 
the house, funeral or grave-yard. She was bu- 
ried in the consular cemetery, a small lot which 



FKOM TANGIEE IN AFEICA. 117 

adjoins the Swedish ConsuVs garden on the west 
side, and is a pretty little spot, surrounded by a 
thick hedge of native canes. 

This then is the end of the first European in 
whom I felt interested after landing on the coast 
of Africa. 

Her early death is deeply deplored by all the 
inhabitants of the place who knew her, and 
especially the Consuls' families feel her loss very 
deeply. 

Her father has been ill in bed ever since her 
decease, and her mother, in all probability, will 
never again visit any person. 

After the sad and solemn funeral was over, w^e 
walked to the Jew's river, which at this time of 
year, is about twenty-five feet wide. It runs 
into the sea at about two miles distance from 
Tangier. In it we saw some of the laundry- 
women of Tangier washing their clothes. They 
rubbed them well with soip, then put them on a 
large stone or rock beneath the surface of the 
water, and while they held them fast with their 
feet, they pounded them vigorously with thick 
wooden clubs, then they rinsed them thoroughly 
in the deeper water. 

They then tied them up in large bundles and 

carried them, dripping wet as they were, into 

10 



118 COOS-COO-SOO, OE LETTEKS 

the town upon their backs. As the greater part 
of the washed garments were of woollen texture, 
you may imagine how dripping wet they were. 

How true it is, that in Africa a woman too 
often is made to do the duties of a beast of bur- 
den. 

When the laundresses arrive at home, they 
hang the colored and white cotton things upon a 
line to dry, the woollen goods are reserved to go 
through another process before being dried. They 
have a large cane basket, with only a few narrow 
slats in the bottom, and without a handle, this 
they turn upside down, and over it they spread 
in layers all the white woollen garments of the 
wash, and cover them up closely with a thick, 
dry cloth ; this they call the bleaching. They 
then put some burning charcoal in an earthen 
pan, sprinkle over it broken sulphur, and then 
put the earthen pan under the basket. The 
fumes of the sulphur whiten the woollen goods ; 
they are left in this state about twenty-four 
hours, during which from time to time, fresh 
coals and sulphur are put under them. 

They are then taken up and hung on lines to 
dry and air. Smoothing irons are never used 
by the natives of this country. Lavender 
flowers or pulverized frankincense are then 



FKOM TANGIER IN AFEICA. 119 

burned under the clean clothes by those who 
can aiFord the expense, to give them an agree- 
able odor. These two articles are very much 
used by all the Tangierines to scent their dwell- 
ings and wearing apparel. 

After returning from our walk to Jew's river, 
as it was not yet tea time, we took another 
promenade upon the terrace on our house-top, 
and there we saw for the first time in many long, 
wearisome weeks, the clear and cloudless setting 
of the sun. 

How beautifully its rosy-tinted hues enlivened 
and enriched the surrounding scenery of land 
and water. Not a breeze fanned the air around 
us, not a ripple waved the smooth and glassy, 
the gaily gilded surface of the Bay. Oh, it was 
delightful to enjoy such a calm, after the tem- 
pests of rain and wind which have been so unin- 
terruptedly prevailing around and over us during 
the last many weeks. Everything around us 
now looks very peaceful and quietly happy. Oh, 
that the appearance was real, and that this peo- 
ple were as happy as the surrounding scenery is 
now brightly beautiful. But alas, that they can 
never be, while they despise and disdain the name 
and honor of our blessed Lord and Saviour Jesus 
Christ. In his faith and only in his name can 



120 COOS-COO-SOO; OR LETTERS 

true liappines ever be found in this life of mor- 
tality. 

The gentle murmurs of the calm sea, as it 
broke slowly, tide-washed, over the sands of the 
shore, were the only sounds which broke the si- 
lence of the sun-set hour. The braying of the 
neighboring donkeys was hushed, for they were 
quietly resting after the labors of the past day. 
The barking of the ever vigilant watch-dogs had 
not yet begun for the night. The swallows had 
not yet paid us their annual visits. The storks 
were beginning to return to their ivy-built nests 
on the town walls, but at the moment of which 
I am writing, they too were still, and a more 
peaceful or calmer period I never beheld. Oh, 
how my heart roved away from its quietness and 
followed in their western course, the rays of the 
declining sun, as they rolled far away over the 
waves of the broad Atlantic, and yet for five 
hours longer would shower down in brightness, 
their light upon the heads of beloved ones at 
home. Oh, how I longed to go with them there, 
even though I should have to leave all the calm 
beauty of the scene around me. How true it is 
that "there is no place like home." 

I think you will rejoice with me when I tell 
you that Seedy Sharkey has not stunned my 



FEOM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 121 

ears by the hideous sound of his voice since the 
first day of my arrival here. Sometimes I think 
that perhaps it will be all the harder to endure 
hearing when he returns home, after his long 
absence. But at all events^ I am heartily glad 
that he is away. 

The setting sun reminds me of what I was told 
to-day about some of the Moors' fancies. They 
profess to beheve that the world is supported 
upon the horn of an immense ox, and that when 
he is tired of holding it on that horn, he changes 
it to the other, and the motion of changing it is 
what causes earthquakes. 

They also relate that when the sun sets, it 
falls into the sea, and is swallowed by a large 
fish that carries it by night to the east side of 
the earth, and there throws him again upon dry 
land, and that his return causes the new day. 

This evening, while I was on our house-top, 

I distinctly heard the sun-set gun of Gibraltar. 

We may therefore expect to have an easterly 

wind to-morrow, especially as there are misty 

clouds gathering over the top of the Rock. At 

the same moment in which we heard the sound 

of the Gibraltar sun-set gun, we saw a small 

white flag sent waving upon the calm evening 

air from the top of the minaret of the mosque. 

10* 



122 

Then we heard the song of the Talb, or the 
Muedden, who called the faithful to prayer. 
Five times daily this same sound breaks out 
upon the usual quietness of the Tangier air, and 
when so heard, all devout Mohammedans im- 
mediately begin to pray. The rich ones go to 
the mosque with their rosaries in their hands. 
Those of the poorer classes, who cannot afford 
to spend that much time from their labors, pros- 
trate themselves in prayer wherever they may 
happen to be when the appointed hour arrives, 
so that they are often seen praying upon the 
house-tops, and in the busy market places, or at 
the corners of the streets. A man here is not 
despised for his devotion, and therefore does not 
attempt to conceal it. But many of them never 
feel it, and then of course, they have none either 
to show or conceal. At each time of prayer the 
Muedden, or prayer-crier in the minaret of every 
mosque, sings out in a loud voice the following 
words : 

"Allah kabeer la el lah la la ela Allah, la el 
la Allah, la ela ela Allah, ashhedu Mohammed 
razul Allah." 

''God is great, there is no God but one God, there 
is no God hut one God, and proclaim ye that Mo- 
hammed is the Prophet of Godr 



FEOM TANaiER IN AFEICA. 123 

But hark, the tea-hell rings, and I must de- 
scend from my flight among house-tops and 
minaret songs, to the duties of tea-spoons and 
butter-knives. Adieu. 

Yours, affectionately, 

&c., &c. 



LETTER XX. 

A MOOEISH BETSOTHAL. COOS-COO-SOO, AND HOW 
TO MAKE IT. 

Tangier, April 24th, 18 — . 

My Dear Friend : 

This morning at an early hour our street 
resounded with the noises of a Moorish merry- 
making, which is always announced by female 
voices uttering loud and incessant war/vallows 
in concert with loud clappings of the hands. 
These sounds are heard at weddings, births and 
at the beginning of any one of their National 
festivals and at the first appearance of the new 
moon. At first we did not know^ on what occa- 
sion they were now proclaimed. But we were 
not kept long in suspense upon the subject, for 
very soon we saw a band of Moorish musicians 
come up the street and place themselves around 
the street-door or gate of our nearest neighbor. 



124 coos-coo-soo, oe lettees 

This act on their part informed us that either a 
betrothal, or a wedding was then and there to 
commence. 

The neighbor has three daughters all under 
fourteen years of age. They are in good cir- 
cumstances and therefore the festivities will be 
conducted with corresponding "pomp and cir- 
cumstance." 

Soon after the band arrived in front of the 
youthful bride's door, they began to play on their 
not welhio'd^di instruments, and at the same time 
the clapping of hands and the warwallows of the 
women within the court of the house continued 
without interruption, and gave abundant proof 
that the fair daughters of Morocco were not de- 
ficient in strength of lungs and of hands, at 
least not while they were enjoying the exciting 
merriment of a wedding's preparation, whatever 
else they might happen to lack on other occa- 
sions. 

When the music had been playing about a 
half an hour, the first betrothal or marriage gift 
arrived from the future husband to his still un- 
seen wife. 

The amount, value and kind of these presents 
are all a part and parcel of the marriage agree- 
ment made and settled by the friends of the 



FROM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 125 

young couple^ with all the coolness and delibera- 
tion which could be experienced by thenij while 
conversing upon any other business transaction. 
They are commented upon and talked over by 
neighbors and others as freely as the state of 
the weather, or the prospects of the crops by 
farmers. 

The quahty and quantity of the present de- 
pend upon the fortune of the bride-groom. 

When the father of the bride is in good cir- 
cumstances, he is expected to throw open his house 
to his friends and give a feast, which generally 
lasts several days and evenings, during which time 
he is to have music playing, dancing, warlwal- 
lows, hand-clappings, and plenty of good eating 
and drinking. The men and women guests on 
these occasions never meet. They go to the 
house at different hours, and occupy different 
rooms, when the dwelling is large enough to af- 
ford two suits of apartments. 

War wallows are loud and joyful cries made 
with the voice, while the hand is lightly and 
quickly patted over the lips, so that the same 
woman cannot produce a perfect warfwallow, and 
at the same time clap her hands ; but one half 
of the assembled party of rejoicers, will perform 
one part of the noisy demonstration, and the 



126 coos-coo-soO; or lettees 

other will perform the other part. In this way 
the merry and deafening peals will be continued 
for many hours without any interruption. 

The gifts on the present occasion consisted of 
several mules* burdens of wheat neatly stowed 
in new panniers made of palm-leaf straw, the 
mules' bridles were tastefully decorated, and 
each mule was led by a man or boy, who was 
handsomely clothed in clean and brightly tinted 
garments 5 also of jars iSilled with honey, butter 
and coos-coo-soo, which were jauntily tied up in 
silk handkerchiefs of brilliant colors and this 
country's manufacture. These bundles of lux- 
uries were gracefully borne upon the heads of 
twelve very black female slaves, real pure 
Africans they seemed to be. 

Some of these slaves were gaily dressed in 
wide sleeved kaftans of red and white striped 
French chintz, others had on the same shaped 
kaftans made of the same kind of material, but 
the stripes were blue and white; they had sashes 
of wide red silk scarfs around their waists, 
and bright silk handkerchiefs tied around their 
woolly heads, broad silver bands on their wrists 
and ankles, and silver rings in their ears. 

Coos-coo-soo is the name of the main ma- 
terial of which is composed their favorite Na- 



FEOM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 127 

tional dish, and is highly esteeemed by all the 
natives of Morocco. 

It is made of the finest part of the wheat, or 
the heart of the grain called semula, and is sepa- 
rated by numerous sittings with hand-sieves 
made for the purpose, from other parts of the 
ground grain. 

It is then mixed with water into very small 
balls not much larger than mustard seed, which 
are also sifted through sieves which are pur- 
posely prepared for this use. The process of 
preparing this coos-coo-soo is very tedious, and 
occupies the greatest part of the time of the 
Moorish housekeeper or her servants. When it 
is all sifted to the proper size, it is spread upon 
cloths in the sun and thoroughly dried, then put 
away in jars and is ready for use. 

When they want to prepare it for the table, 
they have ready some kind of meat. Fowl is 
the favorite and most used, after fowl mutton is 
next preferred, when mutton or fowl is not con- 
venient they use beef or goat's meat. Pork you 
know is never eaten by Mohammedans, they 
never raise and will not touch it if they can 
help it. The meat is put into a stew-pan over 
a slow fire, where it is stewed until it can be 
easily pulled apart. As the Moors never use 



128 coos-coo-soO; or letters 

knives and forks their meat carving is done with 
their fingers, by holding on to the ends of the 
bones and pulling it apart from them. 

While the fowl or meat is stewing in the pan, 
the coos-coo-soo is steamed over it in an earthen 
vessel which is full of holes, and similar to a 
cullender. Meanwhile in a smaller sauce-pan 
are stewed a number of sliced onions, correspond- 
ing in quantity to the size of the fowl, fowls or 
meat which is being cooked. These onions are 
generally boiled in two or three different waters, 
which are poured off to extract from them their 
strong taste, and then stewed in a small quan- 
tity of water with pepper, salt and saffron. 
When these things are nearly done, the cook will 
boil four or more eggs until they are very hard, 
they are then shelled. 

W^hen the meat is well done it is put in a deep 
dish, the gravy is thickened with flour and col- 
ored with saffron and ground cinnamon. While 
the gravy is thickening the coos-coo-soo is still 
kept over it. When the gravy is done the coos- 
coo-soo is poured into the same dish with and 
over the meat; the onions are put on the centre 
of the coos-coo-soo, the eggs either whole or in 
halves are placed around the onions, ground cin- 
namon is spread over them, and the gravy is 



FROM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 129 

poured over the whole disli, and it is ready for 
the table. 

This is the summit of a Moorish gourmand's am- 
bition — to be seated beside a full dish of smoking 
hot coos-coo-soo. It is considered by all ranks and 
races of the land, to be the most delicious prepa- 
ration that was ever tasted. It must be con- 
fessed even by us strangers, that it is really v^ry 
nice — very palatable, and very nourishing food. 

Every body who eats it pronounces it very 
good, and we are always willing to have it on 
the table — no matter how often. The Moors 
never have a feast of hot food, without a dish 
of coos-coo-soo being placed on the table of the 
first course of dishes. They on common occa- 
sions in their own family sit around the dish, and 
every member dips in his hand and helps him- 
self to the diiferent parts. The meat is general- 
ly brought to the surface by the aid of a long 
wooden spoon and is pulled to pieces by the 
fingers of one or two persons and is eaten with 
the coos-coo-soo. 

Before they sit down to eat they always wash 

their hands. In this laudable custom they are 

invariably as w^ell drilled as were the Jews of old. 

They consider it a great abomination to eat with 

unwashed hands. 

11 



130 COOS-COO-SOO; OE LETTEES 

On more ceremonious occasions plates are 
used and handed round to the guests. At these 
times a servant goes round the room just hefore 
the company begin to eat, he holds a wash-basin 
in one hand, a large pitcher of fresh water in 
the other, and has a long clean linen towel hang- 
ing over his shoulder ; he stops beside each one 
of the assembly, who washes his or her hands 
as he pours water over them into the basin, and 
wipes them on the towel. 

- Now to return from this ramble over coos-coo- 
soo, let us go back to our starting point from the 
betrothal festival. 

The twelve black honey, butter and coos-coo- 
soo bearers, walked up the street with the solem- 
nity and slowly measured paces of a funeral-like 
procession. 

They were followed by the mules with the 
wheat and their leaders, who were also very 
silent and very sober-looking in their demeanor. 
As they approached the house and while they 
were depositing their precious burdens within it, 
the band played a solemn monotonously sound- 
ing tune upon their inharmonious instruments. 

Whatever else the Moors can be praised for 
they surely will never be applauded for their 
musical proficiency. 



FEOM TANGIEE IN AFEICA. 131 

Sadness seems to be their most frequently used 
tone. 

The bearers of the present to and from the 
house^ made quite a fine looking display. After 
they had taken their departure^ the female 
friends of the bride and her mother paid their 
calls of congratulation, and there was a running 
in and out of the house all day. 

Six months after this betrothal ceremony the 
marriage festival will be celebrated. 

Before that time arrives, most probably we 
will have an opportunity of witnessing the nup- 
tial ceremonies of some other fair Moorish lassie, 
which if possible shall be committed to " black 
and white," for your especial benefit. 

I believe I have not yet written to you about 
our beautiful promenade on the Tangier beach. 
Oh, it is a lovely place ! When the tide is out 
it is I think over a hundred feet wide, and is at 
least two miles long. It is a smooth hard sand, 
stretching in a gentle curve around a part of the 
Bay to a small river or armlet of the sea, near 
which we never go because the guard (who 
always attends us,) says, there are dangerous 
quicksands near the river. 

This lovely beach is often covered with an 
abundance of very beautiful sea-shells, and 



132 coos-coo-soo, oe lettees 

marine weeds^ and innumerable little salt water 
insects and sea- worms. 

We sometimes find very large sea-stars, and 
very frequently immense numbers of sea-eggs. 

During the prevalence of a Western wind, 
there cannot be enjoyed in this country a more 
delightful and refreshing exercise than is found 
in a horseback ride, or a walk upon this beautiful 
broad level beach. 

It is sheltered on the South by a large num- 
ber of very high sand-hills, and on the West by 
the town and castle of Tangier. 

When the wind blows heavily from the East, 
w^e take our afternoon exercise in some other 
direction, but nowhere can we meet with as 
much beauty and loveliness of created nature, as 
we meet with here on this our favorite prome- 
nade ground, which is laved by the ever surging, 
never -resting waves of the Bay. 

We frequently find some small but very pretty 
specimens of red and white coral. A large box 
filled to overflowing with shells and other curi- 
osities gathered on this beach, which we intend 
to send you one of these days, will prove to you 
that you are not forgotten by 

Yours afiectionately, 

(fee, (fee. 



FEOM TANGIER IN AFEICA. 133 



LETTER XXI. 

A MOORISH WEDDING AND THE BRIDE. 

Tangier, May 5 th, 1 8 — . 

My Dear Friend : 

A few days ago we saw a decently 
dressed Moor stalking down the main street of 
the town^ with an air and a gait which plainly 
indicated that he had some kind of important 
business to perform. An air and a gait which 
are rarely seen in the use of our turbaned neigh- 
bors. To be eager in the pursuit of business is 
evidently not their forte; but to take the world 
easy and to let it go as it may please Providence 
to direct, is the darling trait of their national 
characteristics. 

To walk for pleasure and exercise is com- 
pletely beyond their comprehension. They think 
that when the Consuls walk (as they do almost 
daily,) to their gardens, that they go there to 
superintend the cultivation of some favorite fruit 
or vegetable. The Moors' only pleasures consist 
mainly in eating and sleeping. As they never 
walk for pleasure, as soon as we saw the above 

alluded to individual, we saw also that he must 

11* 



134 

be intrusted with some urgent piece of important 
business. Then we heard him exclaim in a loud 
voice a few words, which were presently ex- 
plained to our wondering ears. He was a herald, 
and he was proclaiming to the worthy inhabi- 
tants of Tangier, that Seedy Such-a-one was to 
be married, that his wedding ceremonies would 
commence on that evening, and that all his male 
friends and acquaintances were then and there 
by him, invited to visit his house, and to eat to 
his future happiness. 

In a few hours after that proclamation was is- 
sued, any respectable male person who wished 
to, could go to the bridegroom's house and par- 
take of this commencement of the marriage fes- 
tivity. Dried fruit, nuts and sweet cakes on all 
similar occasions are liberally and in great abun- 
dance handed round among the assembled mul- 
titude. 

Some music is played in the court of the 
house. 

On the tops of the surrounding houses will 
often be seen, well dressed Moorish women, who 
thence with their faces closely covered, look 
down upon the guests. 

The next day at an early hour, the bridegroom 
sent from his house to the dwelling of his be- 



FROM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 135 

trotlied, a present of cloths^ linens, muslins, silks 
and gauzes in the piece, and several articles of 
made-up wearing apparel. This present was 
borne from one house to the other, very much in 
the same style that was displayed on the occa- 
L^ sion of the betrothal at our nearest neighbor's 
^^ouse, of which I sent you an account in my last 
letter. 

On this latter occasion the procession which 
was formed by the bearers of the present, was 
followed by a band of music, which played a 
more lively air than was indulged in at that time. 
When this latter present arrived, it found the 
fair young bride sitting on a bed, clad in a clean 
under-garment, with the wrappings of a bed- 
sheet over her face and shoulders. 

In this manner she sat several days, during 
which time she was visited by her female rela- 
tives and friends. And there were at intervals, 
dancing, instrumental music and singing per- 
formed before her. 

On the second or third day the bridegroom 
sent an ox, and had it killed in front of the 
bride's house. This was a part of the bridal 
present. 

While the ox was being killed, the band 
played a slow and melancholy tune. 



136 

On the last day of the bridal visitings from 
her female friends, young girls only visited her, 
and they spent the entire day with her, while 
she still sat undressed on the bed. They 
amused her and themselves by telling stories and 
by singing love songs. In the yard of the house, 
in which was growing a very large and over-sha- 
dowing fig tree, there were straw mattings spread 
out in the shade of the tree, and in the centre of 
the mattings was placed a handsome Moorish 
carpet, on which sat a dozen female musicians, 
who played upon their musical instruments. 

At intervals they would jump up and dance, 
one at a time. When the dancer stopped she 
was paid some money by every person present, 
this money was generally given in copper, and 
did not amount in value to much of a sum. 

But if any of the female European inhabitants 
of Tangier are present on such occasions, they 
are expected to give the dancer gold and silver. 

The Moors pretend to believe that money is 
ever ready at the command of Nazarenes, 
through their intercourse with Satan, with whom 
they believe them to be in league. 

The next day the bride was invisible, except 
to her own intimate friends and very near fe- 
male relatives. That night she was dressed in 



FEOM TANGIEE IN AFEICA. 137 

great splendor, and carried from her room in a 
box, or closely covered seat, which was with her 
in it, fastened to the back of a mule. This box 
is made of strong heavy wood, shaped at the top 
like a canopy. Thus seated she rode to the 
mosque, into which she was carried, and what- 
ever ceremonies were therein performed, we 
were not permitted to see, as in this empire, a 
Jew or a Nazarine is not allowed even to stop 
before and look into a mosque. 

While passing it the Jews are obliged to carry 
their shoes in their hands and walk barefooted, 
unless through the influence of some one of the 
Consul's intercession to the "powers that be," 
some favorite of the Jewish people is allowed to 
wear the European costume, which permission 
includes the liberty of wearing shoes while pass- 
ing over holy ground. 

From the mosque the bride was borne to her 
new residence, still seated in her prison-like box. 
When she left the door of her parents' house, the 
bridegroom rode before her on a white horse. 

He was handsomely attired, but his face and 
figure were completely covered from sight by the 
ample folds of a very large, white haik, and he 
remained during several days with his face 



138 coos-coo-soO; oe lettees 

covered. As this was his first marriage, he car- 
ried a drawn sword in front of him. 

If he had been before married, the same drawn 
sword would have been borne on his back. The 
procession which followed him from the bride's 
house to his own, consisted, first, of the band of 
music, playing a loud and wild air ; after the 
music walked men and boys, bearing burning 
wax candles, flaming torches and lighted lanterns. 
Others bore in their hands long, native-made 
muskets, which they heavily loaded with powder 
and fired off at the length of every few steps, 
others discharged fire-crakers and other small 
fire-works. 

Other men and boys hallooed, shouted, sang 
and clapped their hands, with a vociferation 
which v/as enqugh to stun one's ears for a week 
to come. Whenever the man's marriage is a 
first one, these noises are raised to their highest 
possible pitch. How the poor girls can make up 
their minds to become wives in this country, is 
beyond all reasonable comprehension. 

But the poor souls ! I forgot — their minds and 
wills are not consulted on the subject at all, for 
they are the slaves of their parents or of some 
other male relative who occupies the place of a 
father. 



FEOM TANGIEE IN AFKICA. 139 

The next morning before dayliglit^ or about 
the time of the first call to prayer from the top 
of the mosque's minaret, the bridegroom fired off 
a loaded musket, and then commenced anew the 
warlwallows of the women and the clapping of 
their hands. 

The marriage festivities then continued seve- 
ral days, more or less, according to the means 
and wishes of the bridegroom and his parents. 
The music, dancing and feasting are gone on with 
till their sounds are wearisome. At 9 o'clock, 
A. M. on the morning after the bride was carried 
to her new home, she was splendidly dressed in 
costly robes, her face was highly painted in red, 
white, blue and black, and she was richly deco- 
rated with all sorts of jewels. She was then 
visited by every person who wished to do so. 

Each one who paid her a visit was expected 
to put a present for her in the hands of her mo- 
ther or her appointed representative. 

She wore bands of precious stones, one over 
the other on her head, until they formed a space 
a foot in width, which was covered with all man- 
ner of all colored precious stones. These bands 
they call sfifas, and under them were pinned a 
great many rich and highly colored silk hand- 
kerchiefs of native silk, some of them were inter- 



140 COOS-COO-SOO, OR LETTEES 

woven with gold and silver threads. A bride 
generally wears as many of these sfifas and 
heavy silk handkerchiefs on her head as she can 
obtain when she is dressed to go to her future 
home, and when she is exhibited to her friends 
the next day. Suspended from one of these 
sfifas are large clusters of similar precious stones, 
which are hooked fast to the ear-rings for the 
purpose of supporting them, as on account of 
their immense weight and size they could not 
be worn without this plan of supporting them. 

The part of the ring which enters the ear is 
as thick as a finger. The process by which the 
bored ears become trained to wearing this weight 
must be very painful. The ear is first bored 
with a common needle as is done in other places. 
When the hole is healed from the boring, they 
insert in it a piece of wax. This piece of wax 
is gradually increased in size until the opening 
in the ear is worn large enough to admit a large 
date seed, then it will be large enough to force 
the ear-ring into it. 

Those women who cannot conveniently wear 
their ear-rings every day or all day, always wear 
a date seed or a roll of wax in the holes in their 
ears, to make them retain their proper size. 

The hands of the bride were covered with 



FEOM TANGIER IN AFEICA. 141 

finger-rings, and her nails were tinged with 
henna. The wrists and ankles were adorned 
with heavy " tinkling ornaments." 

The eye-brows and eye-lashes were painted 
black. The whole face and neck were first 
painted white, the cheeks were then painted a 
thick dark red, and over the red cheeks were 
drawn blue and white lines. Down the centre 
of her chin and the front part of her neck there 
were painted lines of deep blue spots. 

Her teeth, gums and lips w^ere also tinged 
with a substance which gave them a brownish 
red color, and also imparted a fragrant and 
agreeable odor to her breath. 

She was altogether a blaze of jewelry, of gold, 
silver and paint, which was well calculated 
to make the wondering beholder forever sick of 
the sight of jewelry, gold, silver and paint. 

Thus bedecked and painted, with a thin white 
gauze veil thrown over her face, she sat as mo- 
tionless as a statue, and with closed eyes, all the 
remaining days of the feast. 

She did not once open her eyes, speak a word, 
or in any way move her feet, hands or head; all 
she did was to sit and to breathe all the time 
there were any visitors present with her — it 

seemed to me they were with her all the time. 

12 



142 coos-coo-soo, ok letters 

But my paper is full, and I fear your patience 
is wearied with this long description of this mo- 
tionless African bride. 

Yours truly, 

&C.J &c. 



LETTEE XXII. 

MOORISH MASOXRY. RANKS OF SOCIETY. 

Tangier, May loth, i8 — 

My Veey Dear Friend : 

On the first day of this month we had, 
for about an hour, a heavy shower of rain accom- 
panied by thunder and lightning. This was a 
very rare cirjcumstance. The rains generally 
cease in April, and after that dry weather con- 
tinues until September or October. Many of 
the natives look upon this unexpected shower 
as a prognostic of evil, and are in quite low 
spirits about it. 

How would you like to accompany me on a 
visit to a Moorish lady, and have the pleasure of 
seeing the interior of one of these queer looking, 
white houses, by which we are surrounded ? 

As your answer to this question is not being 



FKOM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 143 

conveyed to me by lightning speed, I will take 
the liberty of thinking that your silence is equi- 
valent to a consent, and I will take you with me 
on our proposed visit as soon as we can make 
the necessary arrangements for starting. 

But before we go, perhaps you would like to 
have me tell you what sort of a house it is to 
which I am going to conduct you, and that you 
may wish me to explain more fully what is 
meant, by calling the houses queer. 

In the first place they are entirely windowless. 
Window-glass is never used by the Moorish 
house-builders. 

Their houses are built of native clay, bricks 
and stone. Sometimes they are both mixed and 
used together in the construction of their houses. 

There are generally parapets surrounding the 
tops of the first-class houses, which are three or 
four feet high. 

After the walls are erected, the roof of boards 
is fastened on them. Then they are plastered 
all over inside and out, and well whitewashed 
with thick lime. 

The roof is finished by putting on the boards, 
a layer of moist clay, about a foot thick. 

It is well beaten down by two, four or more 



144 COOS-COO-SOO, OR LETTERS 

men, wlio are masons by trade. In this pound- 
ing they use heavy wooden clubs or beaters. 

These clubs are similar in shape and appear- 
ance to those used by our street-pounders, when 
they newly pave a street in Philadelphia. 

Over the layer of clay they put a coat of lime, 
then they put upon that lime another layer of 
wet clay, then over that clay they spread a 
thicker one of lime, and then the whole roof is 
well and long beaten. They generally spend a 
day in pounding the very smallest sized roof. 
While they are pounding they sing in concert 
with the poundings of their heavy wooden in- 
struments, the following song to a dull tune, 
which though so dull, has a quiet and soothing 
influence upon one's feelings. 

" Shena alia allaliu kes-deen wawlaila zalhen 
ya arrabu bla amen. Arahamna alwala damen.' 

After this pounding is completed, the roof is 
thickly whitewashed several times — and then it 
is pronounced — finished. 

And so it is — finished for about three months, 
when it will begin to crack open in irregular 
seams, generally in two or three places at once. 

If these seams are not immediately repaired 
by a plaster of wet clay and lime, they widen 



FROM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 145 

very fast; and then the roof will leak under the 
first rain that falls on it. 

So that masonry is a never-failing trade in 
Tangier. Before a mason or any other man 
ascends to the top of a house, he has to put his 
head only out of the door or opening which leads 
to it, and " cry aloud," at the top of his voice 
several times in succession, these words : 
" Hamil atrack ya ahgereen ! " 
They mean " Clear the road, oh neighbors ! " 
If he should presume, either by design or for- 
getfulness to omit to do this, the first Moor who 
chooses to do so, is at liberty to shoot him. 
This is one of the peculiar laws of the land. 
When he does give notice for the neighbors to 
clear the way, the women who dwell within view 
of the house on which the mason is working, have 
to conceal themselves in their houses or else at- 
tire themselves in their walking gear — the haik, 
so as to cover their faces from the mason's view. 
Now I will endeavor to give you a description 
of the Tangier houses, and for the sake of the 
better enabling you to understand it, I will di- 
vide the houses into several classes, according to 
the means and rank of their occupants. 

There are not any regular or fixed rules of 

rank in this country, except that the military are 

12-^- 



146 coos-coo-soO; or lettees 

considered the highest and most respected. The 
black slave of to-day, who was perhaps only a 
few years ago brought here from his native land 
of Guinea, may be in a few years at the highest 
pinnacle of power and rank, if he is a Moham- 
medan. 

This elevation to high rank is obtained by fa- 
voritism, and is open to every native-born or 
adopted faithful Mohammedan. 

A renegade from either Christianity or Juda- 
ism, is never permanently received into favor. 
It sometimes happens that a renegade may be, 
either by his money or his knowledge, useful to 
the Sultan or his officers, in which case his 
money or his knowledge will secure to him an 
apparent and present favorable position of power, 
but as soon as his immediate services are at an 
end, he is forced to a low grade, and there he is 
left, to drag out a miserable and forlornly hope- 
less life. There is for him no chance of a resto- 
ration to his lost estate. 

Color of the skin is no barrier to rank or fa- 
voritism. The highest offices are sometimes be- 
stowed upon men who are but a few removes 
from the full bred negro. 

Slaves from Guinea are common, though not 
very numerous, they are speedily lost sight of 



FEOM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 147 

by amalgamation. They are kindly treated 
while slaves, and very often liberated by inter- 
marrying with the natives of Morocco. 

The offspring of the female slave, if the father 
is a freeman, is also free, and upon an equal 
footing in every respect, with- his other children. 

But I must, I find, close for the present, and 
remain as ever, 

Yours, affectionately, 

&c., &c. 



LETTER XXIII. 

MOORISH HOUSES. 

Tangier, May 20th, 1 8 — 

My Dear Friend : 

The first class house in this venerable 
old place contains two low stories, and is built 
around the four sides of an open court. 

Sometimes these houses are double and will 
possess two courts. The entrance from the 
street to the court is generally low and narrow. 
The court is paved with square marble slabs of 
alternate white and black colors. Between the 



148 coos-coo-soO; ok letters 

slabs are rows of highly glazed tiles of various 
colors. 

On the four sides of the court are large fold- 
ing doors almost as high as the ceilings of the 
rooms into which they open. These doors are 
generally kept wide open during the day for the 
purpose of admitting light as there are no win- 
dows. In one side of the folding doors there is 
a small wicket door just large enough to admit 
one person with very hard effort. 

The doors and the ceilings of the best rooms are 
painted in mosaic imitation. This painting is in- 
credibly minute. The wood is first rudely and 
roughly carved in star and sexagon-shaped spots ; 
some of the sexagon spaces are hollowed or 
grooved out, others are left full ; the stars are 
all full but they are of two different shapes and 
sizes, neither of which is much over half an 
inch in diameter. 

Then intertwining around and between the 
stars and sexagons, are plaited and twisted into 
fanciful looking forms very narrow bands of the 
surface of the wood. These bands form all over 
the whole surface of the wood-work, large stars 
of different shapes and sizes, the stars and sexa- 
gons are painted in every possible hue and shade 
with oil paint, the centre spot is no larger than 



FEOM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 149 

a small seed then another of another circle of 
color succeeds, until the star or sexagon is full, 
then around it on the edge of the outer color, 
there is painted a row of white dots no larger 
than the head of a verj small pin. The sur- 
rounding bands are painted a bright yellow, on 
which gold dust was freely scattered while it 
was wet. The edges of these bands are white 
and then through the centre of the yellow paint 
there are drawn lines of dark red paint, inter- 
spersed with others of dark green, red and blue 
between them and the white edges. These lines 
are so thin that they can be covered by a very 
fine thread. 

The whole effect of this carving, painting and 
gilding is very beautiful. But on account of its 
vast expense it is very rare. 

The largest rooms are never more than about 
ten or twelve feet wide and from fifteen to 
twenty long. 

There is almost invariably a bed or a wide 
high cushioned seat at each end of the room. 
The floors are paved with glazed tiles of difier- 
ent sizes patterns and colors ; these tiles are 
very beautiful and are manufactured at Tet- 
uan, a town about a day and a half's journey 
from here ; they are there made in immense 



150 COOS-COO-SOO, OE LETTERS 

numbers. Many of them are not larger than 
a quarter of an inch square, others are from that 
size to an inch or inch and a half in diameter. 
They are brightly glazed and are of all colors 
and shapes. 

These floors look beautifully clean, bright and 
cheerful. 

Sometimes the rooms are paved with marble 
slabs of different colors mixed with the tiles. 
These floors, pretty as they are, will frequently 
be covered with fine matting and very thick 
woollen carpets of Moorish manufacture. These 
carpets are more than an inch thick and are 
very durable. 

But as usual my pen has carried me to the 
end of my paper, and now that it is on the car- 
pet I will take a hasty leave of you and bid 
you good nigh't. 

Yours affectionately, 

&c., &c. 



FEOM TANGIER IN AFEICA. 151 



LETTER XXIV. 

MOORISH PARLOES AND KITCHENS. 

Tangier, May 25 th, 18 — . 

My Dear Friend : 

On the carpet around the rooms are 
spread beautifully embroidered silk-velvet or 
morocco cushions. These cushions are embroid- 
ered by hand, with the needle, in threads of gold 
and silver. They are very beautiful, and eager- 
ly bought by all the English and American travel- 
lers who by chance happen to pay a visit to 
Tangier. 

In the first-class house they are placed round 
the rooms for seats. Chairs and tables are never 
seen. 

The sides of the room are either painted in 
mosaic imitation, or covered with fine porcelain 
tiles in various patterns; they are thinner and 
larger than those with which the floors are paved, 
and appear to be of French or Chinese manufac- 
ture. 

The ceilings are painted like the large folding 
doors. The sides of the room are hung full of 



152 coos-coo-soo, or letters 

handsome mirrorS; and over them are suspended 
in festoons, richly embroidered silk scarfs. 

Over the beds and doors there are sometimes 
hung handsome vrhite lace or thin muslin cur- 
tains. On the second story there is a verandah 
or gallery running round the rooms, supported 
by pillars or arches. 

Sometimes the court-yards are ornamented 
with a few flowers, and almost invariably there 
will be growing in them either grape vines or 
fig trees. The upper rooms are furnished, (if 
furnished they can be considered,) in pretty 
much the same manner as the lower ones. 
"Wearing apparel and clothes are hung in recess- 
es or stowed away in large chests. The chests 
are sometimes handsomely painted. 

The trade of cabinet-making is unknown in 
these regions.* The house carpenter makes the 
few articles of wood which are used in house- 
keeping. 

Some of the richer Moors will occasionally 
import a few bedsteads or chairs, but such in- 
stances are very rare. 

The kitchen in a first-class Moorish house is 
very clean and very simple in its arrangements. 
At one end of it there is built a large furnace, 
which contains several places for burning char- 



FEOM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 153 

coal. This furnace is built of bricks, clay and 
mortar, then nicely whitewashed. It is kept 
very clean. There are no cushions in the 
kitchen, but there will be found here and there 
about it a few tanned sheep or goat skins or 
small mats, for the use of the cook and other 
servants. The preparations of the food for cook- 
ing are made by the cook, (while in a sitting 
posture on the floor,) upon a low stool which is 
not more than ten or twelve inches high. I have 
seen a Moorish cook steady the meat she was 
cutting by holding her foot on it. A dish-rack 
or two or three shelves for holding the cooking 
utensils, and the few dishes they use complete 
the furnishing of the culinary establishment. 

The mill for grinding the wheat, (for here 
every house-keeper is her own miller,) is kept in 
a closet or some other small apartment near the 
kitchen. The numerous sieves used in bolting 
the flour, the large wooden or earthen pans, and 
the baskets which are used for holding the flour 
and for making coos-coo-soo, are generally kept 
hanging on the kitchen walls, though by the 
more careless domestic managers, they will be 
stowed away in the mill apartment, where of 
course they must be more or less injured by the 

dampness of the small and unventilated room. 

13 



154 

There are sometimes high, narrow loop-holes 
in the walls of the house for the admission of 
light. 

The kitchen floor is paved with red and green 
tiles. The ceiling and walls are plastered and 
are kept very white by frequent whitewashings. 

Beneath some part of the court or dwelling 
there is generally a large tank or cistern^ in which 
rain-water is collected. This water is used only 
for washing and cleaning. The supply of water 
for drinking and cooking is brought by the ser- 
vants from the public fountains, of which there 
are several in Tangier. This fountain water is 
brought to the town by an aqueduct, which it 
appears is very old. 

Those persons who live near the fountains 
carry the wat^r to their homes in large earthen- 
ware pitchers, which hold several gallons. They 
are carried on the shoulder by all the bearers, 
except those who are negro slaves. 

They carry them on their heads. 

There is a remarkable propensity among the 
negro population of all lands, to carry their bur- 
dens upon the tops of their heads. Do they do 
so on account of the thickness of their sculls, or 
are their sculls made thick by the weight of their 
burdens ? 



FEOM TANGIEE IN AFEICA. 155 

Those persons wlio live at a cli.^tance from the 
fountains have the water carried home in small 
wooden barrels on the backs of donkeys or 
mules. The barrels are borne on wooden frames 
fastened to the saddles^ or in palmetto straw pan- 
niers. 

When the water reaches the house it is poured 
into immense stone- ware or earthen jars. 

There are no fire places or chimneys in a Moor- 
ish house anywhere except in the kitchen. Dur- 
ing winter or the rainy season, if the family wish 
to have a fire to warm themselves, they have 
brought into the room in which they are sitting 
a small clay portable furnace, very much like 
those used at home in summer for burning char- 
coal. They are careful to have the injurious 
gas burned out from the charcoal before the fur- 
nace is brought in. These fires are generall}^ 
sufficient to make their small and well-carpeted^ 
rooms quite comfortable in the coldest weather 
which ever visits this place. 

In all probability it was precisely such a "fire 
of coals " at which St. Peter stopped to warm 
himself when he was by Satan tempted to deny 
all knowledge of the blessed Saviour, who was 
about to shed his blood, to redeem his soul from 
the everlasting dominion of that arch-adversary. 



156 coos-coo-soo, oe lettees 

Thus it often happens that the temporal bless- 
ings of this world will tempt and prevail on poor 
erring humanity to despise and disregard the 
more important ones of a future existence. I 
never see one of these small clay furnaces with a 
" fire of coals " in it, that I' do not think of St. 
Peter, and imagine I can see him, with his be- 
numbed fingers stretched out over it, in the act 
of warming his hands, while from his inconsis- 
tent lips are falling the words, 

" I know not this man." 

He had better have done as St. John did — fol- 
lowed the Saviour more closely — and have braved 
the cold. So now in our day of greater light — our 
country of greater cold — ^more freezing winters 
and of more comfortable means of procuring arti- 
ficial heat, there are many weak disciples who 
are tempted to loiter far behind their Redeemer, 
to warm themselves with the cherished comforts 
of this mortal life, and while doing so, are be- 
guiled into a forgetfulness or denial of their God 
and Saviour. They had better resist the allure- 
ing inducements, brave the dismal cold of stern 
poverty for a little season here below, and en- 
deavor to obtain an abundant entrance hereafter 
into the presence of that Saviour, in the glory of 



FEOM TANGIER IN AFEICA. 157 

his heavenly kingdomj from which they shall 
never — no never be thrust out. 

In a second-class house the court is paved 
with red and green tiles, the rooms have large 
folding doors down stairs, up stairs they are not 
surrounded by a gallery but are entered by small 
door-ways. These door-ways will sometimes have 
doors hung on them and sometimes only a mus- 
lin curtain drawn over them. The larger rooms 
are paved with the glazed tiles of various shapes 
and colors. The walls and ceilings are plainly 
plastered and kept neatly whitewashed, and are 
decorated with as many looking-glasses and em- 
broidered silk scarfs as their inhabitants can af- 
ford to procure. The floors will be covered with 
matting and carpets of this country's manufac- 
ture, but the carpets will generally be of a cheap- 
er quality than are those which are used in a 
first-class house. The kitchen, mill-room and 
water-tank are all very much like those of a first- 
class house. 

The rooms and courts of the houses which be- 
long to the third-class dwelling places, are paved 
with red and green bricks. The ceilings and 
walls are plain white and unadorned. Cloth 
cushions, sheep and goat skins are used for seats. 
These houses generally consist of one story. - 

13* 



158 coos-coo-soo, oe letteks 

In the fourth-class houses the courts are un- 
paved, the walls are white, and the floors are 
prepared with clay and mortar, in the same way 
that the house-tops are done by the masons. 
These houses are always kept white and clean 
by frequent applications of fresh lime. Their 
floors have scattered over them here and there a 
few sheep skins or small mats as seats and beds. 
These houses contain one, two, three or four 
rooms. They have no regular kitchen, but the 
family cooking is done on portable clay furnaces, 
either in one of the rooms or in the yard, accord- 
ing to the state of the weather. 

We frequently see from our house-top the 
women who occupy houses of this class, engaged 
at their domestic employments, and truly, while 
viewing them and their style of toilet, we have 
applauded the 'law of the land^ which demands 
that when a man goes on a house-top, he must 
cry aloud 

'^ Clear the road, oh neighbors! " 

Neighbors ! how dearly I love that sweet old 
word ! 

Will you and I, dear J., ever again be neigh- 
bors ? And will these tedious long letters ever 
eease from 

Yours very lovingly, &c., &c. 



FEOM TANGIEE IN AFEICA. 159 



LETTER XXV. 

VISIT TO A MOOSISH LADY. 

Tangier, June i stj 1 8 — . 

My Dear Friend : 

The fourth class houses are in summer 
tolerably comfortable places, and are sometimes 
like the larger ones cheered by the shade of a 
grape-vine or fig-tree. This interspersing of 
white and green all over the town, gives it much 
the appearance of a cemetery filled with green 
graves and white tomb-stones when we look 
down on it from some higher place — from our 
house top or from the Castle Hill. 

As our house is on the highest part of the 
town, and as its stories are more elevated than 
they are of the surrounding houses, we have 
from the top of it a fine viev/ of- the whole place. 

The roofs or tops of the fourth class houses 
do not generally have parapets built around 
them, though they will sometimes be thus pro- 
tected on one side only. 

The fifth class houses are simply one small 
room often without any court or yard of any 
kind. They are entered from the street either 



160 COOS-COO-SOO; OR LETTERS 

immediately into the roomj or through a low 
narrow passage. 

They are crowded in here, there, and every- 
where all over the town. Not a foot of ground 
is lost or wasted. 

The sixth class houses are those of the vil- 
lages, and sometimes one or two will be erected 
in the gardens near the walled towns for the ac- 
commodation of the gardeners. They are con- 
structed of stones piled loosely into walls with- 
out the use of mortar, sometimes they are 
mixed with mud or clay and sometimes without 
it. They are roofed with thick layers of cane 
stalks and leaves, tied on with palmetto-rope 
over a roof-tree of aloe stalks. 

In these houses the floors are the bare earth, 
and the walls are never white-washed, in fact 
they are so v5id of every comfort that in our 
country they would not be considered good 
enough for stables, yet here thousands of people 
live out their whole lives with no better homes. 
These houses are somet'mes covered with layers 
of aloe leaves. 

We will now escort you on our promised 
visiting excursion. We will call on the wife of 
a Moor who a few years ago paid a visit to 
Great Britain. 



FROM TAKGIEE IN AFRICA. 161 

He has but one wife, and seems to be an af- 
fectionate and kindly attentive husband. He 
has learned some good lessons from his inter- 
course with the English people. 

This worthy couple have two children of their 
own, and two others who are adopted. These 
adopted children were originally given to them 
for safe keeping by their father who was a for- 
eigner, during a visit to his native country; 
while there he suddenly died, and thus his or- 
phans were left in a country w^here their guar- 
dian had the power to retain them as slaves, or 
sell them into perpetual bondage to the highest 
bidder ; but instead of doing either he adopted 
them, and now treats them upon an equality in 
every respect with his own children. 

They occupy a first class house. We will 
now take our cards of admission and have them 
carried by a female Jewish servant, who will 
act as our interpreter. We should be guilty of 
a breach of etiquette if we should go without 
our cards. They consist of a canister of fine 
green tea and a bundle of the best loaf sugar, 
broken into small lumps ready for use. These 
things are tied up in a new silk handkerchief. 

Now^ we enter the Moorish lady's drawing 
room, as we do so the Jewess hands our gift to 



162 coos-coo-soO; or lettees 

the servant who has admitted us, and she puts 
it away. There is no allusion made to it by us 
to our friend, who will receive it after our de- 
parture. We find her sitting on the bed at one 
end of the room. The bed is made of a thick 
woollen mattress and covered with sheets and a 
handsome red silk counterpane, she is surround- 
ed by silk-covered piilovN^s and cushions. There 
are fine, thin muslin curtains hanging over the 
bed from the ceiling to the floor, open in the 
middle and looped to the sides of the room by 
being tied to large brass knobs with red ribbon. 
She does not arise to receive us, but continues 
to sit with her feet curled up under her in real 
Moorish style. 

She receives us with a very pleasant smile, 
says we are w^elcome, shakes hands with us very 
warmly, and when she takes her hand from ours 
she presses it to her lips with a very fervent 
kiss. The warmth or coldness wdth w^hich the 
kiss to her own hand is given, is significantly 
expressive of the state of her feelings towards 
us. The act of kissing her hand after touching 
ours, is in itself a mere form with which every 
friendly visitor is received, but when it is done 
with as much fervor and apparent good will as 



FEOM TANGIER IK AFEICA. 163 

it is in this instance^ we may flatter ourselves 
that we are especial favorites. 

Chairs are offered to us by the attendant ser- 
vant, which are of course an innovation on the 
habits of the land, and a cushion is placed near 
the side of the lady, on which our Jewess is re- 
quested to seat herself. The Moorish women 
never speak any language but their own native 
one, which is an impure Arabic. The Jewish 
women of Morocco always speak Spanish, Ara- 
bic and Hebrew. 

Soon after we are seated the four children are 
brought in and introduced; they all have very 
fair clear complexions, and are a very pretty and 
happy looking little group. As soon as the cere- 
mony of the introduction is over, the children 
all sit down on the carpet with their white little 
feet coiled up under them. The lady's dress 
was made of fine figured, thin white muslin, it 
had very wide sleeves which were tucked up 
above the elbows wdth loops of long thick cord 
of blue silk v^orn over the shoulders for that 
purpose. Beneath the muslin robe there was 
another of fine scarlet cloth richly embroidered 
with gold and silver thread, and with small 
pieces of silk velvet worked in with gold and 
silver. The cloth robe is open in front all the 



164 COOS-COO-SOO, OE LETTEES 

way down to the lower edge, and is embroidered 
very richly on the part that covers the breast, 
and on the lower corners. Its sides lapped over 
in such a way as to conceal its being made open; 
the muslin robe was open only as far down as to 
the waist. The upper part of the cloth robe had 
the edges decorated with close rows of very small 
bell-shaped silver buttons. These buttons are 
sometimes made of goldj are very handsome and 
are the workmanship of native jewellers. The 
bust of our friend's muslin robe was richly em- 
broidered with white silk, also around the neck 
there was a handsome edge of rich embroidery, 
this embroidery was mixed with small round 
pieces of scarlet satin. From the throat to the 
waist the edges of the muslin robe were decked 
with small silk buttons, which were so close to- 
gether as to tC)uch each other. These silk but- 
tons are manufactured by native women and 
girls, with no other instrument than a small 
round iron rod about five inches long, and about 
as thick as a four-penny nail ; it is pointed at one 
end, and has a round head or knob at the other. 
The buttons are very pretty and durable. 

The lady's hair was parted in the middle and 
plaited in long braids which himg down behind 
her ears, and were tied together at the ends 



FROM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 165 

with silk cords and tassels which hung down 
her back. Over her hair she wore first a black 
silk scarf, the ends of which had a deep border 
of heavy gold-threaded cloth, these ends hung 
down her back while the middle of the scarf 
was bound tightly around her head very near 
her eye-brows. Over the scarf she wore two or 
three highly colored silk handkerchiefs, one over 
the other in such a way as to leave about an 
inch in width of each one to appear peeping out 
from under its upper successor; they were 
pinned tightly around her head and their ends 
were hanging down behind it. She wore golden 
ear-rings, the ring part which entered her ear 
was as thick as one of my fingers, they were 
ornamented with large drops of cut red coral. 
She did not wear any sfifa or tiara of jewels on 
her forehead which showed that she was not in 
full dress, and she received our visit more as a 
call of friendship than of ceremony. The ear- 
rings she wore were not of the full-dress heavy 
kind which need supporters. 

But our dinner hour has arrived, and I must 
conclude this letter in the midst of our visit, as 
I wish to forAvard it to Gibraltar by the courier 
boat which is to sail in an hour. 

Yours affectionately, &c., &c. 

14 



166 coos-coo-soO; or lettees 



LETTER XXYI. 

A MOORISH TEA-DRINKING. TANGIER WATER SELLER. 
THE BREACH IN THE WAIL. 

Tangier, June 8th, 1 8 — . 

My Dear Friend : 

The Moorish lady whom we were visiting 
at the conclusion of my last letter, wore around 
her waist a long silk scarf, about twenty inches 
wide, and three yards long. It was of native 
manufacture, and was heavily interwoven with 
gold and silver thread. This scarf was folded 
lengthwise till it was about four inches wide, then 
bound tightly around the waist. 

On the walls of the room in which she received 
us there were hanging seven large looking-glasses, 
several gold and silves watches, five or six swords 
and cimeters, some of which were of English and 
others of Moorish make, and five or six handsome 
silk scarfs. Also, there were hanging among 
these things, two handsomely painted wooden 
tablets, on which were written in Arabic char- 
acters of all colors, a few extracts from the 
koran. Between these tablets and the wall were 



FEOM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 167 

suspended pieces of very rich silk embroidery, as 
if they were too sacred to be allowed to come in 
contact with the cold and stony walls of the 
house, on a par with its other treasured orna- 
ments. 

Soon after we were seated, a servant brought 
in a broad low stool, handsomely decorated with 
painting in arabesque patterns, which she placed 
in front of her mistress, and spread over it a fine 
white linen cloth, then another servant entered 
with a tray in her hands which she put on the 
low table or stool. On the tray there was a tea 
set of handsomely gilt French china. The tea 
was sweetened in the pot with so much sugar 
that it was almost a syrup. The mistress poured 
the tea into cups without milk or cream, and the 
servant handed them around to us. Then there 
were trays of various kinds of very small sweet 
cakes handed around by other servants. They 
were very nice, and entirely new to us. They 
formed a very palatable and delicious novelty. 

They and the tea were also offered to our 
Jewess, but she declined partaking, as to have 
done so would have been contrary to the laws 
by which she and her nation are governed, they 
never eat with any but their own people. When 
we took our leave of the fair Lady Fatima, she 



168 coos-coo-soo, or letters 

invited us very kindly to repeat our visit as 
often as we pleased. 

All the time we were sitting and enjoying lier 
delicate dainties, our guard or Moorish soldier 
was waiting for us outside of the street door. 
To be thus diligently watched over and attended 
in all our movements, is more irksome and un- 
pleasant than can be imagined by any person 
who has never experienced it. We cannot help 
feeling that it is a restraint upon our liberty or 
freedom of action. 

When we left the Moorish lady's house, we 
walked through several narrow winding streets, 
in which we met a few people, one of them was 
a water-seller. He carried the water in a goat 
skin on his back. The skin was sewed up with 
the hair inside, for the purpose of being more 
durable. It was like the water-bottles of old, 
which are so frequently alluded to in the holy 
Scriptures. This water-bearer was carrying his 
refreshing burden about the town for the purpose 
of selling it to the thirsty wayfarers. He sold 
it at a very low price, as he gave a goodly sized 
cup of it for a small copper coin of little value. 

Continuing our walk we went past the British 
Consulate, where we saw the inmates starting 
on their afternoon's horse-back ride. Then we 



FKOM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 169 

walked in front of the great mosque, into which 
we wished to enter, but dared not even peep. 

We were soon after directed by our guard to 
notice the breach in the town wall, over which 
that unfortunate grave-robber was thrown last 
winter by the excited Tangier rabble, of whose 
public execution by stoning at their hands, I 
wrote you an account soon after it occurred. 

That part of the wall has been broken down 
by the relentless tooth of time, until it is not 
more than three feet high from the street which 
passes it on the inside ; but on the outside, the 
depth of the wall is, I think, about thirty feet. 
The surface of the sea-beach at the base of this 
wall, is covered with pieces of broken wall and 
large stones when the tide is out. When it is 
full the beach, stones, and the base of the wall 
are several feet under water. In many places 
the stones of the base of this wall have been 
worn away by the action of the waves against 
them, until they look as if they had been scooped 
out by art, but the cement which joined them 
together centuries ago, is still as perfect and en- 
tire as it was the day it was put there by hands 
which have crumbled to their native dust, long, 
long ago. How wonderful and how durable are 

the works of human skill ! 

14* 



170 COOS-COO-SOO; OR LETTERS 

We stood and gazed for some time over the 
breach in the wall; where that suffering criminal 
ended his mortal career, and as we reflected on 
his unfortunate misery, and compared his fate 
with that of hundreds of other men, who in our 
own land rob the graves, not only of grave- 
clothes, but of their dead occupants for money's 
sake, and yet go unpunished, under the plea that 
dead bodies must be furnished to the unfeeling 
demands of science and medical wisdom. We 
felt that the civilization of the one land in this 
respect, was not more tolerable than the venera- 
tion for the grave, which was on this spot so bit- 
terly proved by the inhabitants of the other. 

But the gaping old breach in the sea-washed 
wall has brought me to the end of the last page 
of this letter, and the continuation of our after- 
noon's walk pdst it, niust be deferred until some 
future occasion. Until then adieu. 

Yours, affectionately, 

&c., &c. 



FKOM TANGIER IN AFEICA. 171 



LETTER XXVII. 

JEWISH CEMETERY. A VIEW OF THE TOWN FROM THE 
HOUSE-TOP. 

Tangier, June 15 th, 18 — . 

My Dear Friend : 

After leaving the breach in the Tangier 
wall, we walked past the Tangier tannery, where 
we saw some men working at their useful but 
unpleasant trade. The vats were numerous, 
probably about six or eight. They appeared to 
be about four feet wide and about eight long, 
and constructed of brick or stone masonry. 

The matters of length and breadth, height and 
depth, have all to be calculated by guess-work 
in this country. If we should be seen going 
about the town with a measuring line in our use, 
we would very probably be banished from the 
land by the authorities which rule over it. As 
guess-work is so much easier than taking mea- 
sures would be, we rather rejoice than lament 
over this jealous watchfulness of " the powers 
that be," in this one respect, although on other 
accounts we cannot help grieving over the silly 
fears of the Moors, who seem to dread allowing 



172 coos-coo-soO; or letters 

any stranger to enter or walk over their crumb- 
ling old towns. The fact is that the poor souls 
feel their decrepitude as a people and fully real- 
ize that sooner or later, they must fall under and 
yield themselves conquered captives, to some 
other more powerful and vigorous nation. They 
seem to feel that this is their unavoidable, ulti- 
mate destiny, but naturally desiring to defer the 
period of their future downfall as long as possible. 
They are meanwhile zealously guarding their 
peculiar nationalities from the scrutiny of stran- 
gers' eyes as carefully as they can. 

The art of tanning and preparing leather, we 
have been told, they have known in its highest 
perfection, from very early dates, and that they 
keep it a secret from all outside intruders. 

We passed by the tannery, walked a short 
distance on the beach, then ascended a very nar- 
row and steep path, which brought us to the 
Jewish cemetery. 

It is sheltered on the west side by the wall 
of Tangier, and on the others by hedges of aloes 
and prickly pears, and growing near it are seve- 
ral large fig trees, which cast over it a cool and 
pleasant shade in summer, and shelter it from 
the winds of winter. 

The Moors very seldom intrude within its bor- 



FROM TANGIER IN" AFRICA. 173 

ders, as it is considered by them an unholy and 
unclean place. The graves are very close to- 
gether, facing the east. They are covered with 
flat grave stones, almost on a level with the sur- 
rounding earth. 

The stones are generally of a very dark blue 
color, and are engraved with long inscriptions in 
Hebrew characters. We then came to a part of 
the town wall, which is protected by what has 
once been a very deep moat, about forty feet 
wide. It is now nearly filled up with rubbish 
of various kinds, and seems to be the favorite 
reservoir of old shoes, worn out straw from mat- 
tresses, and whatever else people may want to 
be rid of. 

We passed a beautiful, narrow, descending 
road, nicely shaded between two high hedges of 
cane. At the end of this road there is a well of 
water, at which we often see the poorer women 
of Tangier filling their heavy earthen pitchers, 
which having filled they slowly bear away upon 
their shoulders. 

We then went through the market place, past 
the fondak or caravansary, then past the public 
fountain, where we stood a few moments to be 
amused and amazed by the thronging wranglers 



174 coos-coo-soo, or letters 

who there "do congregate/' to procure the re- 
freshing element which we all love so well. 

We then wound in and out, and around the 
corners of a few winding, narrow streets, till we 
reached our home, where w^e wound up the day 
by taking our accustomed sun-set promenade on 
the house-top. 

We are now very much interested in watching 
the motions and actions of immense numbers of 
storks making their semi-annual abodes upon the 
ivy-bound w^alls of this crumbling old town. 

The loud flapping of their broad wings as they 
dive down to their nests, and the clatter of their 
long, hard bills, form quite an enlivening and 
agreeable break on the silence of this solemnly 
still place. 

An almost constant deadness of all sound 
within this town, is its most prevailing and pecu- 
liar characteristic. 

It is always incredibly quiet, except upon the 
following occasions : 

1st. When the Muedden calls the faithful to 
prayers. 

2d. On a market day, when the hub-bub of 
the buyers and sellers of something to eat will 
come like a murmur upon our ears from the 



FROM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 175 

market place, beyond the town walls. This 
hub-bub lasts only a few hours. 

3d. When there is a death, a funeral, a birth, 
a wedding, or some other public rejoicing some- 
where in the neighborhood. 

4th. In the morning very early, and very late 
in the afternoon, we sometimes hear the braying 
of a donkey, and now and then — ^very rarely, 
there will be a camel somewhere within hearing, 
that is kneeling in front of its driver, and begins 
to feel that it is receiving more weight on its 
back than it is willing to carry, which it betrays 
by a low moaning — menacing use of its unmusi- 
cal voice. 

It will neither cease to make this unpleasant 
noise or arise on its feet, until its burden is 
lightened. 

In this respect the camel is the master over 
its owner or driver. It will carry as much as it 
pleases and not one straw more. 

5th. When a house-top is being made or re- 
paired, we hear the soothing sounds of mason's 
songs and the heavy beatings of their pounders. 

6th. The flappings of the storks and the clat- 
ter of their bills. 

7th. When a juggler or a beggar passes by, 
we hear their doleful ditties, both vocal and in- 



176 

strumental, either of which is not much of an 
improvement on a dead silence. 

8th. Very frequently we hear the low, rum- 
bling noise of the domestic mills of our near 
neighbors, and the pounding of some one of them 
with a short, thick stick on the outside of her 
outer door or gate, while she stands within it, 
out of sight. This is her signal for the baker's 
boy to come for her bread, which she takes this 
way of informing him is ready for the oven. 

9th. At night we are incessantly surrounded 
by a loud barking of watch-dogs. Occasionally 
we hear the hootings of owls, and at regular in- 
tervals we hear the night-guard calling out to 
each other to ascertain whether " all's well." 

With the exception of these sounds, when the 
elements are at rest, and the storms of wind and 
rain and thunder have all passed away, the 
place is as deadly still as a quiet country grave- 
yard, unless there should happen to be a quarrel 
taking place about the right of way, or some- 
thing of that sort, when the vocal din will be 
loud but not long, it is soon hushed, and the si- 
lence again reigns abroad. This stillness is very 
remarkable, and on me it has a depressing and 
doleful influence. I feel many times as if almost 
any place out of this would be a paradise. 



FROM TANGIER IK AFRICA. 177 

This silence is partly caused by the absence 
of all bells, which are said to be forbidden by 
the koran, and by the entire want of wheels. I 
do not believe there is a wheeled vehicle in the 
whole empire. 

I have never seen any, except two very odd 
looking ones in one or two of the Consul's gar- 
dens. 

It appears to me that this dead stillness is a 
symptom of the dying out of the Morocco nation. 
/Tis sad to see anything die — because death 
is the offspring of sin — yes, 'tis very sad to view 
death in any form — be it on a tree, a flower, a 
leaf — yea, even a single blade of grass, when it 
fades, withers, totters, falls and dies — when it 
changes the freshness, the bloom, the fragrance 
of its natural life, and sinks into decay — to death, 
is deeply calculated to fill the mind of the re- 
flecting beholder with feelings of grief and re- 
gret. 

To see a bird, a fish, a fowl or quadruped — 
more particularly that noblest of all domestic 
animals — a horse, to see these yield their facul- 
ties, their life, their breath, to the irresistible 
power of the destructive tyrant, who finally 
claims them all as his victims, is still more pain- 
ful. 

15 



178 coos-coo-soO; oe letters 

Then to see a beloved, a majestic, a soul-gift- 
ed human being, a fellow mortal, of immortal 
mould, sigh out in lessening gasps, the flowing 
life of his present existence, and to be conquer- 
ed by the " rider on the pale horse," is most 
excruciatingly sorrowful. 

But alas, what are all these compared to the 
feelings of a person, who, while standing here on 
this high house-top, and viewing below and 
around, on all sides, the infallible symptoms of 
a whole nation gradually but surely sinking into 
death. 

Oh, the view is indeed very, very sad ! 

The sadness of this view is greatly increased 
by the inevitability of the approaching doom, 
which is hurrying them forward to meet their 
destiny. Mr. M. thinks that even since he has 
resided here, he can perceive a slow, gradual, 
but still a perceptible decrease in the population 
of the country. 

A census is never taken ; it would not be al- 
lowed by the authorities, but as far as guess- 
work and comparison will enable him to judge, 
he believes that the number of the inhabitants 
becomes smaller and smaller every year. The 
climate on this coast is quite healthy, the breezes 
from the sea are always delightfully refreshing. 



FROM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 179 

the soil is rich and yields abundantly, except 
occasionally, when there is an insufficiency of 
rain ; but this does not often occur, with a pro- 
per management of the fruitful years, the evil 
of a few dry ones would not be noticed. And 
yet these people cannot prosper, notwithstanding 
all the natural advantages which they so richly 
possess. Poor souls, they seem to feel a pre- 
sentiment of their future downfall, yet they 
have not the ability to prevent it. 

One of their santos, or holy men, a long time 
ago prophesied that the day would come, in 
which, while the people were at prayer in the 
mosques on a Friday, their towns would be en- 
tered and taken possession of by their enemies. 
Ever since, from that day to this, the town-gates 
are closed, locked and barred during the hours 
of the extra Friday exercises in the mosques, and 
while they are being performed there is no going 
out or coming in through the town gates. This 
is often very annoying, and the more so, when 
we reflect that it is caused by the declaration of 
some such character as our neighbor Seedy Shar- 
key. But as his santoship is a seedy subject, 
we must defer the consideration thereof, to the 
next letter from 

Yours very affectionately, &c., &c. 



180 



LETTER XXVIII. 

SEEDY SHABKEY'S LIFE AND WIFE. THE SANDHILLS. 

Tangier, June 20th, 1 8 — . 

My Dear Friend : 

I verily believe I have forgotten to tell 
you tliat Seedy Sharkey has long ago returned 
from his protracted visit to some other regions, 
where he has been blessing the inhabitants with 
his honorable and beneficial presence. 

About six times a day ever since his return 
home, he has strided up and down our street, 
past our house, and every time his voice has 
failed not to utter those unearthly sounds which 
so thoroughly .terrified me on my first arrival in 
this — not city of the dead, but — this cemetery 
of the living, rather of the existing — for I feel 
that to be here is merely existing, not living. 
Will you beheve me, when I tell you that I am 
positively beginning to like to hear the sound of 
his exciting cries ? There is life in them — -that 
is some comfort — where there is so much dead- 
ness of all sounds, a living yell is acceptable and 
far preferable to the wearisomeness of no sound 
at all. 



FEOM TANGIER IK AFRICA. 181 

" A living dog is better than a dead lion." 

I think I told you in a former letter that 
Seedy Sharkey's home is near our own. He 
lives in a fourth-class house, immediately adjoin- 
ing the town wall. 

He has a wife, but no children. I am very 
glad there are no little Sharkeys to inherit his 
blessedness. It is a comfort to think it will all 
die with him. 

When he does die — if he ever can. To see 
him^ one can almost fancy that he might out- 
stride even death, but this would be only fancy. 
He must and will die, and after his death there 
will in all probability be built over his grave a 
monument and a house of prayer and refuge, 
which will be much larger than the dwelling 
place now occupied by him and his wife. His 
living where he does, is of course his own choice. 
He could live in any house in the land which he 
would take a fancy to call his own. It is a 
great comfort to reflect that ours is contaminated 
by our infidelity to Mohammed and by our eat- 
ing swine's flesh ; so that we at least are secure 
from all danger of having him take possession of 
our house. 

He and his wife dress and look very poor, but 
in reality, although poor, they can, if they choose, 

15^ 



182 coos-coo-soO; or letters 

live like princes in the eating line, as he is at 
liberty to walk through the markets and past 
the shops, and help himself to whatever he may 
want "without money and without price." Yet 
they live like very poor people. This simplicity 
of their way of living is viewed by their neigh- 
bors as a voucher of their superior sanctity. 

The wife is a contented looking, middle aged 
woman, about ten years his junior. She is 
visited by the Moorish ladies of the highest rank, 
while her husband is absent from home, and no 
doubt she leads a happy and comfortable life 
upon the strength of her husband's insanity. He 
never condescends to look at any one of our 
family, and he invariably passes along as if he 
was totally ignorant of our existence. She seems 
disposed to be on friendly terms with us, and 
when we meet her she always greets us with a 
pleasant smile and a kindly spoken " Keef 
koontsy." 

Did I not tell you last winter that I would 
have a garden of flowers here on the house-top ? 

Well, so I have. But how did I get it ? 

Thinking that my first attempts towards ob- 
taining it will amuse you, they shall now be 
offered to your acceptance in black and white. 
The first beginniDg was caused by the politeness 



FEOM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 183 

of the French Consul. He is old and feeble^ too 
much of an invalid to visit and too polite to treat 
a stranger or new-comer with entire neglect, and 
therefore, instead of paying me a friendly call, 
he sent me his card, accompanied by a very 
small package of flower seeds, and a very long 
message about his regrets at not being able to 
come in person, and begging me to accept his 
gift of rare flower seeds. 

I felt really grateful for his polite attention, 
and still more so for his precious little present. 
It was precisely what I was ardently wishing 
for — the beginning of my flower garden. Hav- 
ing procured a small box of garden earth, and 
having it safely placed on the house-top, the 
seeds were sown without delay. 

They were carefully watered every morning 
and evening for at least four weeks, but all in 
vain, they did not grow. After the fourth week 
was over there peeped out from the ground a 
tiny little germ — only one — it grew very fast — 
for several days I was in ecstacies with my 
beautiful French flower, which was to be so ele- 
gant and so rare. At the end of about two 
weeks I was unwillingly forced to the conviction 
that the plant I had nursed with so much ten- 



184 coos-coo-soo, oe letters 

derness, was a common road-side weed. A 
rough, coarse and disagreeable weed. 

How great was my disappointment can be re- 
alized only by ardent flower-lovers. 

Meanwhile Mr. M., with his usual kindness, 
had, without my knowledge, sent to Gibraltar an 
order for a dozen beautiful flower-pots, which on 
their arrival, he presented to me as my own. 

They were beautiful large porcelain ones, made 
at Malaga, handsomely ornamented with green 
handles and wreaths of grape-vine leaves. 

Here then I had a splendid collection ready 
for my house-top garden. To have them filled 
with fresh garden soil and carried up to the top 
of the house, were easy matters, but to fill them 
with rare and beautiful flowers, was a more diffi- 
cult undertaking. Flowers of every kind were 
so abundant — ^the fields were covered with hya- 
cinths, lillies and almost every kind of bulb-rcot- 
ed treasures. Roses were so plenty everywhere 
they were not worth looking at, geraniums were 
growing and blooming in everybody's kitchen 
gardens, so that filling my twelve elegant flower- 
pots with plants rare and handsome enough to 
correspond with them in worth and beauty, was 
a very slow process. One or two heliotropes — 
my favorites — from the Swedish garden, three 



FEOM TANGIEE IN AFEICA. 185 

or four large carnations from the Dutch Consul's 
garden, a jessamine from the French garden, and 
then my supply was at a could-go-no-farther 
boundary. 

One day as I was taking my ante-dinner pro- 
menade on the house-top, I made a splendid dis- 
covery, as brilliant as it was splendid. I saw 
growing upon the top of the town wall, which in 
that part is about five or six feet wide, and may- 
be twelve or fifteen feet high — a beautiful bright 
red flower. I saw it as the sun was shining 
brightly from between two heavy clouds. It 
was the first peep we had enjoyed from old sol 
during several weeks, for it was in the midst of 
the rainy season. How brightly they gleamed, 
both the sun and the flower. I was puzzled to 
decide which of the two was the most cheering. 

I immediately ran down stairs to the guard, 
and after describing to him the flower, and the 
spot on which it was growing, I requested him, 
if possible, to obtain it for me. In about a quar- 
ter of an hour he returned to me with the gay 
blossom, and behold, it was nothing more than a 
common scarlet poppy, the ditto of the one that 
had grown where I had so carefully sown the 
French Consul's rare floAver seeds. The poppies 
grow here in every variety of size and color, in 



186 coos-coo-soo, oe lettees 

such an abundance, that they are tiresome weeds. 
Thus I was again disappointed, and still had 
several flower-pots that were unoccupied, except 
by their waiting contents of fresh garden soil. 

One afternoon for the sake of a change, we 
went to walk on the high sand-hills, which lie 
on the south of Tangier Bay, and are in them- 
selves a very great curiosity. They are said to 
have been formed within the memory of some 
few old men who are still living in Tangier. Our 
guard told us that his father could remember 
when the ground under them was richly cultiva- 
ted, and filled with gardens, in which were grow- 
ing a great many grape vines, and large, full 
sized fig trees. But they are now all out of 
sight and completely covered up with this sand. 
It appears to be washed upon the beach by the 
waves of the sea, and then blown by the wind 
to these hills. It is said that there are similar 
sand-hills on other parts of the Morocco coast. 
It seems very wonderful and mysterious. Where 
can all this sand come from, and what is its fu- 
ture destiny? 

On these sand-hills we, one afternoon walked, 
and by the time we reached the top of one, we 
were glad to sit down to rest. While resting, 
we were interested in listening to the soft mur- 



FEOM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 187 

muring of the waves of the Bay, as they broke 
near us on the beach, and in watching the actions 
of a few long-billed and longer-limbed wild fowls 
that were fishing for the supper of themselves 
and their little ones at home. 

While thus pleasantly engaged "a la Mores- 
que," I discovered growing near our sitting place 
a beautiful and very delecate white, star-shaped 
lilly, streaked here and there with a few thin 
lines of a very pale pea-green, it was entirely 
leafless, and about one inch and a half in diame- 
ter, and though so delicate, it was growing on a 
thick and rugged looking stem. 

I asked the guard what he called the flower. 

He said he did not know, for he had never 
seen one like it. Here then was something rare, 
and as it was really very beautiful, I gave it the 
name of the sand^star, and at once resolved to 
transplant it into one of my still unoccupied 
flower-pots. Full of this determination, I began 
digging round the stem with a stick, and as I 
thus made very slow progress, the guard drew 
his cimeter from his side, and with it undertook 
to dig up the flower root. 

When he had dug to the depth of a foot, and 
there being still no sign of the root visible, and 
as the sand at every succeeding inch's depth 



i88 

was found to be harder and harder, he proposed 
to postpone the operation of digging up the 
plant until the next day, when he would bring a 
hoe to aid him. The next day our worthy and 
obliging guard went alone after the newly dis- 
covered sand-star, and was gone so long that I 
concluded he had fallen in with some agree- 
able companions on his way to the sand-hills, 
and had forgotten all about his errand. 

After he had been gone nearly three hours, 
he returned with it in his hand. His face was 
as red as if he had been half baked ; the un- 
usual exertion he had been making, for he was 
not accustomed to manual labor, had put him 
into a glow of bodily heat, which was no doubt 
increased by feelings of resentment toward me 
for having wished to possess the rare plant. 

The stem of the flower was full five feet long. 
It was attached to a bulbous root as large as a 
full sized dinner plate. Of course the guard's 
labor was all in vain — it Avas impossible to plant 
such a botanical monster upon the house-top or 
anywhere else. Thus I was made to experience 
another disappointment. We afterwards saw 
several flowers of the same kind on those sand- 
hills, but never in any other place. We have 



FROM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 189 

not met with any person who can tell us any- 
thing about them. 

To-day is the twentieth of June, and since the 
first day of May we have not had one drop of 
rain, neither did we expect to see any until next 
September or October, but to-day, at about 
eleven o'clock, we were all astonished to see the 
sky suddenly overcast with dark clouds, and 
during about twenty minutes, a light shower of 
rain descended from them. 

Soon afterwards the sun again came out and 
the rest of the day continued clear and fine. 

The natives are prophesying that all kinds of 
evils must follow in the train of these two un- 
expected showers. What a pity it is that they 
will pervert the blessings of refreshing showers 
into causes of discontent and evil forebodings. 
Let us be wiser than they, and be sure ever to 
be thankful to our Heavenly Father for all his 
good and perfect gifts, even if he does some- 
times, in his unerring wisdom, see fit to pour 
them on us in showers of rain and from a tem- 
porarily clouded sky. 

Yours, affectionately, 
&c., &c. 

16 



190 COOS-COO-SOO; OR LETTEES 



LETTER XXIX. 

MOOBISH SADDLES, BRIDLES AND HOBSEBACK BIDING. 

Tangier, June 29thj 1 8 — . 

My Dear Friend : 

Do you remember that I wrote to you 
about the first European lady that I saw here 
on the day of our arrival, and who died soon 
afterwards ? Her parents have both remained 
within their own house ever since, without either 
paying or receiving any visits. The health of 
the father has been declining ever since. 

No doubt he would be better if he would en- 
joy the benefit of fresh air and exercise. 

They have two sons ; upon the youngest they 
seem now to bestow all the love which they 
used to lavish so fondly upon their daughter. 

He is a pretty and very gentle looking lad, 
is handsomely dressed, and wears long curls of 
golden-hued hair down his back. It is said by 
Madame Rumor, that his mamma cannot sleep 
day or night unless he is within the reach of her 
hand, so that the poor boy has to sleep in his 
mother's room. He sometimes, but very seldom, 
is allowed the liberty of riding out on the back 



FROM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 191 

of a favoritej highly fed and very large donkey 
attended by two servants, one on foot at the 
side of the young gentleman, and the other a 
Moorish soldier as guard, is mounted on a hand- 
some horse. 

The other son is as wild as the mountain air, 
he is naturally of a very sociable and amiable 
disposition, he is about two years older than his 
sister was. He is fond of riding on horseback 
and almost lives in his saddle. As he was born 
here he can speak the Arabic like a native ; and 
often rides out of town alone, though at other 
times he will be attended by a guard for the 
sake of appearance. He associates with the 
Moors as one of themselves, and is allowed by 
his grief-striken parents to choose his own com- 
panions. An unfortunate liberty for a young 
man to possess in this land of peculiar tastes and 
habits. He has no cares — no duties to perform, 
and is living according to the unrestrained dic- 
tates of his own uncurbed will. 

Cut off as he is by ceremony and silly eti- 
quette, from associating or meeting with the 
other Consuls because his parents will not visit 
them and their families, and disliking the dul- 
ness of his own melancholy home, he runs at 
random into the semi-civilized company of the 



192 coos-coo- soO; oe letteks 

natives, with whom the other Europeans of the 
place do not associate. 

What a pity it is that parents will sometimes 
neglect living children in their hlind and useless 
grief, over those who are dead and huried ! 

Young Mr. O.'s chief amusement and occupa- 
tion consist in riding on horseback, which he 
does in Moorish style ; he owns for his own and 
his servants' use at least six or seven fine large 
horses. As his saddle and bridle are of native 
Moorish manufacture, and as they are precisely 
like those which are used by the Moors, I will 
describe them for you that you may form an 
idea of their appearance, Avhen adorning the 
backs and heads of their fleet-footed horses. 

Before putting the bridle on, the horse's head 
is decorated with an ornamental head-gear made 
of red silk, and red and yellow morocco, to 
which is suspended a long fringe made of red 
silk cord and tassels. This rich looking fringe 
hangs over the front of the head till it almost 
touches the eyes, on each side is a silk velvet 
pad hanging down gracefully under the ear. 
These pads are also decorated with red silk 
fringe and tassels. There are sometimes at- 
tached to this head-gear many little bags taste- 
fully made of red velvet or morocco, in which 



FROM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 193 

are strongly sewed extracts from the koran. 
These written sentences are generally bestowed 
upon their owners by jugglers, as preventives or 
charms against the injurious influences of evil 
spirits. 

The straps of the bridle are tastefully made 
of red and yellow morocco, often stitched and 
elaborately worked with flause silk of all colors. 
The bit is of iron and is very powerful, the 
horse's mouth is often made to bleed by its use ; 
it will hold in and have full command over any 
horse or mule, that is not incurably vicious. 

The saddle is fastened to the back with one 
broad strong girth, and by another around the 
breast, the saddle trees are very high and the 
saddle very much resembles a chair. It is cov- 
ered with a large saddle cloth made of fine cloth 
or velvet, and richly decorated according to the 
fancy, taste and ability of its owner. 

The stirrups are made of wrought iron very 

long and broad, they are as long as a man's foot, 

and nearly as broad as they are long. They are 

drawn up very high towards the saddle, so that 

when a man is riding on horseback his knees are 

almost on a level with his elbows, and his feet 

rest firmly against the sides of the horse. 

Besides these broad and heavy stirrups, the 

16* 



194 COOS-COO-SOO, OR LETTERS 

rider wears long iron spurs as thick as one's fin- 
ger, and quite as long ; they are pointed at the end. 

The stirrups and spurs are handsomely plated, 
sometimes gilt and ornamented with devices in 
arabesque, they are attached to the saddle by 
means of handsomely braided red and yellow 
morocco straps. They possess altogether a very 
gay and gaudy appearance, and add much to the 
adornment of the country, when we meet them 
during our long quiet rides through it. 

We encounter them most frequently on the 
beach, or between it and some favorite garden 
in the neighborhood. The Moors are extremely 
fond of the exercise of horsemanship, it appears 
to be the only pleasure in which they heartily 
rejoice, besides eating and sleeping. For eating 
and sleeping are both to them matters of plea- 
sure more than of necessity. 

They have an amusement whicli they call 
" lab al barode" or " running powder T In this 
sport they freely indulge during the weeks of 
their three great National festivals, and on any 
other occasion of public rejoicing. This exer- 
cise of running powder has the appearance at 
first sight of being a sham battle, but is merely 
an exhibition of the Moors' horsemsnship, and 
their dexterity in handling their immensely long 



FEOM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 195 

heavy muskets, and managing their highly 
spirited steeds. Their muskets are weighty 
and unwieldy affairs, made by native gun- 
smiths, they are almost invariably decorated 
with small plates of silver, sometimes of gold, 
these plates are covered with arabesque figures, 
and quotations from the koran. 

It is a gay and lively scene, when the beauti- 
ful beach is covered by large parties of these 
handsomely mounted and richly dressed Moor- 
ish horsemen. 

The viewing of these sports of horsemanship by 
their lords and masters, is also much enjoyed by 
the Tangier Moorish ladies, who go in largo num- 
bers for that purpose to the sides of the sand-hills, 
which conmand a full view of the beach. On 
these occasions the ladies are dressed in their 
best and whitest haiks, and their faces are taste- 
fully painted, although one eye is the only fea- 
ture which they allow to be uncovered. They 
applaud and enliven the event by frequent and 
prolonged warwallows. The men are so much 
engaged with their guns and horses, that they 
never even look towards the place where the 
women stand, and act as if they were uncon- 
scious of their presence. 

A Moor rnever looks at a woman in public, to 



196 

do so would be considered a breach of good 
manners. 

The men run powder by starting in rows of 
ten, twelve or more horses abreast, galloping very 
swiftly to a certain distance down the beach, 
they then discharge their muskets, turn short 
around and gallop back to the starting point. 
"While advancing and returning they all shout out 
in a loud voice in a way that is truly indescri- 
bable. 

They then stop to re-load their bulky fire-arms, 
with as much powder as they will safely bear. 

While they are doing so, another party of like 
numbers will start off abreast to the same dis- 
tance, shouting in the same way, then discharge 
their pieces, and return also to the starting point. 

This running forwards and back again, is kept 
up the whole afternoon and until sun-set. 

The poor horses are kept in a foam, and their 
blood often runs in streams down their sides, 
and from the corners of their mouths. 

The Moors are passionately fond of their pet 
horses, and in general treat them with much care 
and kindness, but when they are excited by the 
enjoyment of their "lab al barode" they seem 
to forget that their faithful bearers are made of 
flesh and blood, and are capable of any feeling. 



FEOM TANGIEE IN AFEICA. 197 

The women poor souls never mount a horse 
or camel, except when travelling a long jour- 
ney, on removing from one place to another. 
When they are thus mounted they do not guide 
the reins, but sit passively in a kind of chair or 
frame of wood made for the purpose, and in such 
a way that the occupant is rendered almost help- 
less. The rich women and their favorite female 
servants sometimes ride for pleasure, to visit a 
garden near the town, but these rides are taken 
on donkeys, and they are driven by men or boys. 
The holding the haiks over their faces while out 
of doors, is as much as the Moorish women can 
do at once, as both hands are required to keep 
it in its proper place over their heads and faces. 
The only frequent pleasures of which the Moor- 
ish women partake are to attend weddings and 
other joyful celebrations, and to walk out on 
Fridays in small parties, and spend a few hours 
sitting among the palmetto bushes, and graves of 
the public cemetery. 

Yours truly, 

&c., &c. 



198 coos-coo-soO; or letters 



LETTER XXX. 

THE RENEGADES. THE HAIES. THE PASSPORTS. 

Tangier, July ist, i8 — . 

My Dear Friend : 

The air to-day is so beautifully clear, that 
the white houses in Tarifa, on the Spanish coast, 
are plainly visible through a common spy-glass, 
and so is the flag-staff at Gibraltar. We fre- 
quently see that same flag-staff from here, but 
never the flag. 

The other day there arrived in this port a 
small fishing boat from the coast of Spain. 
There were on board of it seven or eight Span- 
iards not fishermen, but refugees who had made 
their escape from Cadiz. They at once landed 
without waiting to ask permission from either 
the Spanish Consul, or the Moorish authorities. 
As soon as their feet touched the soil of Africa 
they declared to the officers of the port who met 
them on the beach, their intention of becoming 
true and faithful followers of the Prophet Mo- 
hammed. This declaration instantly released 
them from all allegiance to their own country, 
and enabled them to bid defiance to the Spanish 
Consul, and his demands for their passports. 



FEOM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 199 

This acknowledgment was suflficient passport 
to the protection and guardianship of the au- 
thorities of Morocco. 

They were immediately conducted in triumph 
to a barber-shop, and had their heads relieved of 
the weight of their jet black Spanish locks. Their 
scalps were very soon as smooth, and as free 
from hair as the palms of their hands. They 
were then taken to a public bath where they 
were made to wash away the uncleanness of 
their false Christianity. Before they left the 
bathing establishment, they were fully clothed 
in suits of Moorish costumes, all except the 
haik. The haik requires long practice to render 
wearing it successfully possible, and I do not 
believe the attempt is ever made by a renegade. 

These men were taken from the bath-house 
to the mosque, where they were very speedily 
turned into followers of Mohammed. Then no 
matter what crimes they may be guilty of, they 
cannot be given up by this country to the one 
on the opposite side of the straits. 

Soon after the ceremony of their instalation 
into their new creed was over, a Spanish brig of 
war came into the Bay, hastily cast anchor, and 
landed some of her officers ; they came in pur- 
suit of the refugees. 



200 coos-coo-soO; or letters 

But they were too late, they were now be- 
yond the reach of all Spanish authority. 

Poor creatures, what a life of misery is be- 
fore them ! As they have money with them — 
while it lasts — they are being famously lionized. 
As soon as their funds are exhausted this lion- 
izing will be turned to donkeyizing, and they 
will be lowered to a level with beasts of burden, 
unless they are skilful at some art, trade or 
profession, by which they can and will be useful 
to their new masters — can and will are two 
widely different words you know — here in 
Africa, as well as in other more favored parts 
of this lower world — they will soon be forced to 
earn their daily bread by the lowest and most 
laborious kinds of toil. 

We saw four of them on the street the other 
day, they were easily distinguished from the 
mob of middle classed rabble, surrounding them 
by the newness and unfaded brightness of their 
freshly bought attire. In every other respect 
they already appeared to be quite accustomed 
to carry the turban, to wear the wide uncouth 
Moorish trousers, and to waddle along quite suc- 
cessfully in the broad, heavy, yellow slippers of 
their adopted country. 

It was some relief to find that their round, fat 



from: TANGIER IN AFRICA. 201 

faces, dull stupid eyes, and unintelligent features 
seemed to indicate that they were incapable of 
feeling the miseries of their hopeless condition. 

Perhaps after all they have not lost much of 
present benefit, by the exchange of their nominal 
belief in one religion for another, which is none 
at all. It may be that they were before the ex- 
change as wicked and unhappy as they could be. 

The Governor of Tangier intends to send them 
up to the Sultan of Morocco, where their skill 
and usefulness will be tested and their future 
position in the social scale of the land, decided by 
the pleasure and interest of his imperial majesty. 

The haik is a long white garment without 
seam, similar in shape to a very large long shawl. 
It is worn by the men and women, but in differ- 
ent ways ; the men wear it wrapped around the 
body, with the ends hanging gracefully over the 
shoulder. The women wear it in such a man- 
ner that the face and head are completely cov- 
ered by it, with the ends tucked away out of 
sight under the arms. 

On the latter it is an unbecoming and ghostly- 
looking affair. 

One night a small bay-boat arrived from Gib- 
raltar, which had on board a Spanish subject, 
who had been turned out of Gibraltar for some 

17 



202 

trifling breach of martial law; he was sent 
adrift without any passport, and the conse- 
quence isj that he is not allowed to land in any 
of the neighboring ports. The Spanish Consul 
here is now diligently employed to prevent his 
landing at Tangier. 

The British Consul with characteristic hospi- 
tality, sends him the food which keeps him from 
utter starvation. We do not yet know what 
his fate will be. 

The patrone of the boat that brought him 
here, cannot wait with him much longer. The 
man's only alternative is to obtain the privilege 
of landing here by turning Mohammedan, or to 
submit to the authority of Spain by accepting a 
lodging place in one of its prisons, or to make 
his escape from the boat he is now in, when it 
returns to Gibraltar Bay, by taking refuge as 
a common sailor on board of some Enghsh or 
American merchant vessel ; on all sides nothing 
but hardships await him — for the want of a 
passport. What must we think of the govern- 
ments who are afraid to admit into their lands 
one single man without a passport ? 

Yours, affectionately, 

&c., &c. 



FEOM TANGIER IN AFRICA.. 203 



LETTER XXXI. 

A JEWISH WEDDING. 

Tangier, July i oth, 1 8 — . 

My Dear Friend : 

We were lately invited by a young Jew 
to attend his sister's wedding. He is one of the 
Tangier dry-goods merchants who are in the 
habit of calling at our house to sell their pretty, 
and temptingly cheap goods. As his dress is a 
good sample of what is worn by the better 
classed Jews of this country, I will describe it 
for you. His trousers are made of fine white 
muslin, they are wide but not flowing like the 
Moors. His shirt is handsomely embroidered 
with white silk on the bosom and around the 
neck, the front is finished with two very close 
rows of small white silk buttons. 

Over the shirt he wears a blue cloth or a 
white cotton vest or sack without sleeves and 
over it a fine blue cloth coat or outer garment, 
very much like a sack coat, it is open in front 
and is fastened around the waist by a broad silk 
scarf folded to the width of about four inches. 
His head is covered by a small black woollen 



204 coos-coo-soo, oe lettees 

cap, ornamented on the top with a long blue and 
white silk tassel; that hangs down on one side 
of his head. 

The sleeves of his coat are wide, and reach 
about half way between his wrist and elbow. 
The sides and front of his coat are sometimes 
faced with red silk^ and braided with silk cord 
of various colors. 

He wears black morocco slippers. The Jews 
in this country never wear turbans. 

This young Jew's name is Sr. B.^ and he is very 
much respected by all who know him. We at- 
tended his sister's wedding as much to gratify 
his feelings as our own curiosity. She was, we 
foundj a lovely girl about fifteen years of age, 
the sight of her beautiful face we concluded was 
well worth the trouble of walking to her resi- 
dence. Her complexion was of clearest white 
and brightest red, her hair, eye-lashes and eye- 
brows were of jetty blackness, her lips were red 
and full as two beautifully ripe cherries, her 
eyes were of a bright and flashing hazel, her 
teeth were like two rows of pearls set in coral, 
and she was altogether as beautiful a specimen 
of humanity as one could desire to behold. We 
found her sitting on the bed in the best room of 
her mother's house. It is a second class house, 



FEOM TANGIEE IN AFEICA. 205 

and is very neatly furnished in the Barbary- 
Jewish style, which differs very little if any 
from the Moorish. 

As with the Moors, so with the Jews in Tan- 
gier, a wedding is a festival of much ceremony, 
and lasts several days — more or less according to 
the wealth of the bride's family; a crowded 
house is expected and fully enjoyed. On the 
first and second days the bride sat on the bed, 
simply attired in her under garments and wrap- 
ped in a sheet, her hair was without ornament, 
and hung down over her shoulders in natural 
ringlets. She was surrounded by her maiden 
friends, who were dressed in their holiday cos- 
tumes, and they almost all seemed to be nearly 
as beautiful as the bride ; their eyes were gener- 
ally fine, large, black and very expressive. 

The Tangier Jewesses certainly do not en- 
courage one's belief in the truth of physiog- 
nomy — for where in the wide, wide world can 
there be found more intelligent looking faces, and 
yet where can there be met with more barren and 
empty minds than those possessed by these 
same fair descendants of Sarah and Eebecca. 

The bride's young friends spent the greater 
part of two days with her, while there they 
were feasted with dried fruits, sweet cakes, con- 

17* 



206 coos-coo-soo, or letters 

fectionery and a kind of weak liquor distilled in 
a domestic still from raisons or figs and anise 
seed. They drank it largely diluted with water, 
yet even in that weak state^, it was sparingly 
used. They were certainly good examples of 
temperance in drinking. 

Such a thing as an intemperate Jew or Jew- 
ess, I have not yet seen in this place. 

These Barbarians appear willing to leave the 
vice of inebriation to the unshared possession of 
their more enlightened neighbors, "over the 
water." 

The bride's youthful and fair companions 
amused themselves and her, by telling stories, 
dancing, singing and with instrumental music. 
Their music is not very melodious. 

On the afternoon of the second day of the 
wedding, the "bride's young friends took their 
leave of her, and she was then visited by her 
married friends, who dressed and conducted her 
to their public bath, where they spent about 
an hour. This bath is very large, deep and cold. 
The poor brides generally dread the plunges 
which are there given them, more than any 
other part of the wearisome wedding ceremonies. 
She was then conducted back to her mother's 
residence, where the married friends remained 



FROM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 207 

with her, and commenced the operation of attir- 
ing her in her wedding garments, and of paint- 
ing and adorning her face and head. 

Her dress consisted of scarlet broad-cloth and 
crimson silk velvet, richly decked with gold lace, 
gold threaded embroidery, braiding, buttons and 
a perfect blaze of jewelry ; on her head she 
wore five or six sfifas, or tiaras of fine stones, 
and over them a crown made of scarlet velvet 
cloth, and covered with gems and precious 
stones. Over all these treasures of finery she 
wore a thin white silk vail. 

Her eye-lashes and eye-brows were painted 
black to make them look heavier and longer. 
Her cheeks and skin were not painted except by 
nature, and by that most superior of all artists 
she was beautifully finished in pearly white and 
rosy red. 

These Jews crown every bride among them, 
because they hope that she may become the 
mother of their long expected Saviour, who is to 
be their regal deliverer from their long captivity, 
in all the lands of the Avhole earth, and who is 
to restore them to their lost royal estate in the 
Holy City of Jerusalem ! 

If the Bible had no other witness under the 
sun to prove the heavenly authenticity of its 



208 coos-coo-soO; ob lettees 

records, the faith alone of these Jews would 
prove it beyond all possibility of a doubt. They 
are a living, standing, undeniable, indestructi- 
ble miracle, certifying, age after age, and cen- 
tury after century, the truth of God's Holy 
Word ! 

At about half past eight o'clock in the even- 
ing, the bride was ready for her ceremonious re- 
moval to her new home. 

The assembled guests were crowding every 
room in the house, except the one in which the 
dressing was performed. 

When it was completed the doors were 
thrown wide open, and the costumers made the 
air ring with their warwallows and hand-clap- 
pings. 

At the same time a band of Jewish musicians, 
who were sitting in the court-yard, commenced 
playing their discordant strains, then every per- 
son who wished to was allowed to go in and look 
at the beautiful bride. She sat on an elevated 
seat in the middle of the room, her eyes were 
closed and her arms were folded across her 
breast. 

Dried fruit, cakes and confectionery w^ere 
then handed around to the numerous guests and 
spectators. Meanwhile the music, warwallows 



FROM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 209 

and hand-clappings continued without abate- 
ment. At about nine o'clock they began to pre- 
pare for her removal to her new home. But how 
she reached there must be the commencement 
of a new letter, or you will feel that my lengthy 
epistle is intruding too much at once upon your 
precious and fully occupied time. Till my next 
adieu. 

Yours affectionately, 

&c., &c. 



LETTER XXXII. 

THE JEWISH WEDDING CONTINUED. A RURAL MORNING 
RAMBLE. 

Tangier, July 1 8th, 1 8 — . 

My Dear Friend : 

I will continue in as few words as possi- 
ble the description of my young neighbor Estara's 
marriage festivities. When she had sat upon the 
elevated seat, or (as they called it) the throne, 
in her mother's house about half an hour, and 
was gazed at by the "mixed multitude" who sur- 
rounded her, she was Approached by two Eabbis 
and four men and an innumerable crowd of little 



210 

boys. The Rabbis placed themselves one on 
eaeh side of her, the four men held in their hands 
four immensely large, burning wax candles, 
tastefully painted in red and green. The boys 
sung or chanted in Hebrew, and with a vocifer- 
ating voice, over and over again the v/ords : 

" Here she is the bride, oh, the bride, the 
bride. We have come to take the bride, to take 
the bride. Oh, here she is, here she is, we have 
come to take the bride." 

They were now all ready to start. But at 
this interesting point there was some delay occa- 
sioned by the bride's brother causing to be borne 
to her side a sedan chair, which he had borrowed 
from one of the Consuls, and he insisted that his 
sister should not walk but be carried in the 
chair. 

The bride's father was dead, and whenever 
that is the case, the brother or next nearest male 
relative, becomes the " master of the feast." 

Finally they succeeded in seating her in the 
sedan chair to her brother's entire satisfaction, 
but in opposition to the will and wishes of the 
Rabbis and the spectators. The former no doubt 
felt themselves cheated by this arrangement out 
of the pleasure of leading her through the streets 
to her new home, and the latter out of the grati- 



FEOM TANGIEE m AFRICA. 211 

fication of feasting their eyes upon her beauty 
and splendid attire. To all it was an innovation, 
and as such it was most cordially frowned upon 
by them, except the enthusiastic and affectionate 
young brother. The bride of course was not ex- 
pected to exercise any desire on that or any 
other subject. She was being married, and was 
passive in the hands of her masters — tormentors 
I felt they must be to her, if she had any feel- 
ing. 

At last the procession was formed and in mo- 
tion. First, the four bridal-candle bearers, then 
the two Rabbis and the bride, borne by four por- 
ters ; around and after them crowded the shout- 
ing, chanting, singing, yelling little urchins, who 
it is said, are in the habit of sticking needles and 
pins into the flesh of the bride to test her forti- 
tude and resignation. 

It was probably a desire to save her this tor- 
ture which led the young merchant to devise for 
his sister the protection of the borrowed sedan 
chair. 

Then followed the bride's relatives and the in- 
vited guests, and after them the public who saw 
fit to give their presence and add to the length 
of the parade. The number of this parading 
public depends upon the popularity and standing 



212 coos-coo-soo, or letters 



of the bride's family^ and was on this occasion 
very flattering in the size as well as in the re- 
spectability of the concourse. 

When the procession had passed over about a 
fourth part of the distance towards her new 
home, her future father-in-law met it and insist- 
ed upon forcing her to descend from the sedan 
chair, and to be led forward between the two 
Rabbis in the customary mode. The bridegroom 
met her at the right hand side of his front door, 
and on the middle of the entrance his mother re- 
ceived her. In her hands she held a plate, on 
which were a glass tumbler filled with water and 
some sugar. She presented the water and sugar 
to the bride's mouth, then threw and broke the 
glass at her feet as she entered the house, in 
token that thereafter she was to be the sole mis- 
tress of her husband's good will and pleasure. 

The Rabbis then placed the bride upon an ele- 
vated seat or throne in the centre of the best 
room in the house, where she remained a few 
minutes, after which she was led by married 
females to a curtained recess at one end of the 
room. 

There they re-adjusted her heavy head dress 
and weighty ornaments, which had become dis- 
arranged by her removal from one house to the 



FROM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 213 

other. She was then returned to her seat of 
honor, on which she remained until one or two 
o'clock, A. M. All this time the music, feasting 
and dancing continued, but she saw nothing of 
them, as her eyes were closed all the time, and her 
hands remained unmovingly in the same position. 

The next morning at about seven o'clock, we 
found her sitting in the same spot, and in the 
same position, with her hands still crossed and 
eyes closed. 

The guests and spectators at that hour 
throDged around her to witness the bestowal of 
the wedding ring. The bridegroom and a Rabbi 
then entered the room side by side. The bride- 
groom placed himself near her on her right hand 
side, and the Rabbi stood before her, while he 
repeated a long prayer in Hebrew. 

He then read aloud in Hebrew the marriage 
contract which he held in his hand; it was writ- 
ten on a scroll of parchment. Having read it 
through, he rolled it up and handed it to the 
bridegroom, who gave it to the bride, she re- 
ceived it with her left hand, and retained it dur- 
ing the remainder of the ceremony. The bride- 
groom then took hold of her right hand and 
placed on its fourth finger a heavy gold ring, 

and said in Hebrew : 

18 



214 

" I take this maiden, Estara B., to be my 
wedded wife, according to the law of Israel, 
Moses and Nathan, as they received it from God, 
whereof this ring is the token." 

Prayer was then again offered by the Rabbi, 
and he closed it by pronouncing the benediction. 

The bridegroom's father then handed the 
Rabbi a large glass tumbler full of wine. He 
held it solemnly in one hand, elevated the other 
over it and invoked a blessing upon it, he then 
drank some and handed it to the bridegroom, 
who drank a small portion, then held the tum- 
bler to the lips of the bride who tasted it. The 
bridegroom then returned the wine to his father, 
who drank of it ; then with the tumbler in one 
hand and a large glass bottle in the other, he 
handed it around the room to the guests, until 
they were all served. It was not oifered to the 
Moors and Europeans, who were there as spec- 
tators, but to the Jews only. 

The young couple were then married man and 
wife. She remained in the same seat, in the 
same dress and position, during all that and seve- 
ral other days, and all that time, the music, 
feasting and dancing ceased not, except during 
a few hours at night. 

After having witnessed the ceremony of giv- 



FEOM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 215 

ing the ring and drinking the wedding wine, we 
resolved to seek relief from the heat of the 
crowded " house of feasting," by taking a morn- 
ing walk out of town. As we passed the inner 
market place or the main street, we saw a row of 
day laborers, with their hoes in their hands, on 
which they were indolently leaning. They were 
standing there " waiting to be hired." As this is 
one of the many old scriptural customs of the 
land, they reminded us very forcibly that we were 
in the old world of the Eastern Hemisphere, and 
far, far away from our home in the Western. 

Having passed through the town gates, and 
the larger market place, we ascended the hill 
beyond it and stood there a few moments to view 
the scene around us. The Bay was as smooth 
as glass, and shining brightly beneath the rays 
of the unclouded sun. The sea breeze had not 
yet reached the shore, but we could see it com- 
ing on apace over the face of the distant waters, 
which were moved by it into gently rising waves. 
The whole aspect of nature around us seemed 
very soothing and very lovely. 

Near us stood a large drove of donkeys, and 
mixed with them a few mules, waiting to be dri- 
ven to pasture. The donkeys and mules of the 
town people, when not hired out or needed for 



216 

the day in the labor of their owners, are taken 
by them to this hill beyond the market place, 
and committed to the care of a herdsman, who, 
at a certain hour, drives them all out to a graz- 
ing field. 

He is usually accompanied by one or two boys 
and several dogs. At about four o'clock in the 
afternoon they return to this hill, where the 
owners meet and pay the herdsman a few cop- 
pers for his trouble and drive their animals home. 
So that if you want to hire a donkey or mule in 
these regions, you must secure him early in the 
morning or wait until late in the afternoon. 

The donkeys are very fond of a coarse, low 
weed, which is here very abundant, its leaf is 
mixed white and green. I have seen some of 
the same kind growing in the flower gardens of 
Pennsylvania, as an exotic, under the common 
name of Virgin Mary's nettle, or milk-weed. 

When we passed the drove of donkeys, we 
saw a numerous train of camels beginning their 
wearisome journey to the Interior. 

They moved along slowly beneath their highly 
piled burdens, as if they were very unwilling to 
leave the place where they had enjoyed a long 
rest and the luxury of drinking as much water 
as they could. 



FROM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 217 

They were all the one humped camels. I 
have never seen any other kind here. They are 
gaunt and uncouth looking creatures, awkward 
and ungraceful in their movements, yet withal, 
they are so gentle, so kind and so patient in their 
disposition, that one cannot help loving them. 

A useful lesson is the one they would teach 
us human beings, if we would but attend to and 
learn it. 

Then we passed the sanctuary of Seedy 
Mekhfee, who is said to be the patron-saint of the 
market place. His memory is held very sacred. 

Probably during his lifetime he was very much 
such a looking person as now is our neighbor 
Seedy Sharkey. 

We then walked about a mile and a half and 
saw the Village Swanny, which contains about 
a hundred huts, surrounded by hedges of prickly 
pears or cactus opuntia, the fruit of which is now 
ripe and very delicious. We thenreturned home, 
past the American, Danish and Swedish Con- 
suls' gardens. 

We were so much refreshed by our rural ram- 
ble, that we were able to begin with renewed 
interest, the labors and studies of the day. 
Adieu, Yours truly, 

&c., &c. 

18* 



218 coos-coo-soo, oe lettees 



LETTER XXXIII. 

A MOOR'S CHANGE OF RANK. CATTLE PRISON. THE CULTI- 
VATED FIELDS. THE CASTLE. 

Tangier, July 29th, 18—, 

My Dear Friend : 

To-day as we were returning from our 
walk we passed by the pretty little garden of 
Alkaid Asoosey. Alkaid means a military com- 
mander, it may be over a hundred, or more or less. 

This same Alkaid Asoosey has been for many 
years the favorite extra guard of the Consuls 
upon their excursions into the country, or occa- 
sional visits to some of the towns in the Interior, 
or on the coast of this empire; during which 
time he was in the highest favor of the Emperor, 
and of the Governor of Tangier. 

The horse he rode was the best and fleetest 
of all the good and fleet horses of the land. 
His wardrobe was in beauty and quality equal 
to any worn by men in the highest rank. His 
turban was invariably the highest and whitest 
that could be seen in all this town of turbans, 
and — in short he was as perfect a petU maitre in 



FEOM TANGIEE IN AFEICA. 219 

his manners and attire, as ever the shores of 
Barbary produced. 

Many times when riding or walking past his 
gardenjwe would see him in it amusing himself 
by weeding it during the cool hours of the early 
evening, but even then, and there, his garments 
and head gear were patterns of perfect neatness 
and good style. 

During a month or two past we saw nothing 
of him, but did not pay that subject any atten- 
tion, as we supposed he had been sent away on 
some mission of honor or of trust by the Governor. 
How great then was our surprise this afternoon 
to see as we passed his garden gate walk out 
from it a little dark figure, meanly attired in a 
soiled and faded old gelab, (gelab is the outer 
garment worn by poor and laboring men,) with- 
out any turban or any other covering on his bald 
head, and to hear the same unrecognizable fig- 
ure say in the voice of our much esteemed and 
admired Alkaid Asoosey, first my own Christian 
name, and then the friendly words of salutation, 
"keefkoontsy?" 

The voice was the familiar one of our dear 
old, favorite guard, Alkaid Asoosey, but poor fel- 
low — the figure, face, and garments, were those 
of a man who by some act of caprice, avarice or 



220 coos-coo-soO; or letters 

injustice of those in authority over him had 
been disgraced by falling into disfavor. 

His fine horses and houses have been taken 
from him by his Government, and this little gar- 
den is all that is left to aid him in earning a 
support for himself and family. 

We then entered the gate which leads to the 
enclosure surrounding the castle. Here we saw 
a man in the garb of a poor villager, led forcibly 
along by two soldiers ; they held him by the 
neck of his gelab, and if he offered to make any 
resistance, or effort to escape from them, they 
twisted it tightly around his throat in a manner 
which at once brought him to a state of perfect 
passiveness. 

They had arrested him for having allowed his 
horses to eat some of his neighbor's wheat. 

The fields ot this land are all unprotected by 
any kind of fence, or hedge, so that domestic 
animals have to be closely watched by their 
owners, or persons employed by them for that 
purpose, to prevent their straying into other 
people's cultivated fields. 

It is a common practice here on these occa- 
sions to seize the trespassing animals when their 
owners, or employed watchers are not con- 
veniently found, and then the animals are takea 



FEOM TANGIER m AFRICA. 221 

to " the pound/' as it is called in England, where 
they are detained until their owners call for 
them, and pay for the damage they have done. 
When they call to get their property they are 
punished by paying a fine, or by being impris- 
oned, or bastinadoed. 

Should the owners not come forward in a rea- 
sonable space of time, the animals are sold or 
turned over to the possession of the government. 

These laws make owners of cattle and horses 
very careful in general to have them well 
watched. 

The bastinado is I believe a very painful op- 
eration, not ever having witnessed its infliction, 
I must be satisfied to give you a second-hand 
description of it. 

They say the person who is condemned to 
this punishment, is made to lie flat on the 
ground with his arms and lower limbs fastened 
to stakes, and then the bastinado is given by 
striking very heavily on the soles of his feet 
with a bunch of leather straps. 

A few dollars will generally suffice to buy off 
the culprit from enduring it, but if he or his 
friends are too poor to pay the fine, then his 
feet have to suffer for the lankness of his purse. 

We sometimes see mules, horses, donkeys and 



222 coos-coo-soo, or letters 

horned cattle in the Tangier pound, (which is a 
small enclosure adjoining the wall of the castle,) 
all huddled most uncomfortably together in the 
small place, poor beasts suffering from hunger, 
thirst and imprisonment, because their owners 
are too improvident to make fences around their 
fields ! 

Gardens and vineyards are always enclosed 
by durable and strong hedges, but the no less 
valuable fields of wheat and other farm produce 
are left open, and unprotected by any sort of 
fence or hedge. 

It is a very pretty sight to see the hill-sides 
and plains covered with a diversity of the rich 
gifts of the liberal soil, and to view the edge of 
a crop of wheat, meet lovingly the leaves of a 
bean field, or the long graceful leaves of dra 
boughing affectionately over a cluster of neigh- 
boring barley-heads ; but around and above all 
this beautiful union there ever will creep into 
my mind the cooling reflection, that there is a 
want of thrift in the owners of them all, or they 
would be better and more safely protected from 
the feet of intruding animals. 

If we w^ould talk of field fences to a Moor, he 
would scorn the idea, and say that the labor of 
making them would be unendurable, that his 



FROM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 223 

father lived without field-fences, and what was 
good enough for the sire, must of necessity be 
good enough for tho son. 

The Tangier Castle is now unoccupied, as the 
present Governor prefers residing in his own 
private house, the Emperor allowing him to do so. 
It is divided from the town by a lofty wall on the 
brow of a high and steep hill. This wall bears 
evidence of having been in former times heavily 
mounted with cannons, Avhich have long since 
been removed to other places. This castle is the 
union of several buildings erected at various times, 
different ages and in as many styles of architec- 
ture ; they are now a cluster of walls and 
masonry in several states of preservation ; there 
are two high towers overlooking them all, one 
of which is the minaret of a mosque. Some of 
these walls and gateways are ornamented with 
arabesque designs, which no doubt were hand- 
some decorations when fresh from the hands of 
the artists who put them there, but now they 
are sadly marred and tarnished by the lapse of 
time. The continuation of the castle's sketch 
must be postponed for the present. 

Yours, affectionately, 

&c., &c. 



224 coos-coo-soO; or letters 



LETTER XXXIV. 

TANGIER CASTLE. CONTINUED. 

Tangier, July 31st, i8- — . 

Mt Dear Friend : 

Tangier Castle is a vast pile of ancient 
buildings containing over two hundred different 
apartments and about fifty stair-cases. Many 
of the rooms are as dark as dungeons, and not 
more than three feet wide and four or five feet 
long; from this size they vary to that of twelve 
wide and about twenty or twenty-five feet in 
length. The ceilings generally are very high, 
and in some of the larger rooms they are hand- 
somely decorated with arabesque designs, cupo- 
las and arches. In one part there is a large, 
open, square court ; it is surrounded on each of 
its four sides by three handsome large rooms; we 
presume it is in these rooms that the Emperor 
makes his temporary abode when he visits Tan- 
gier. They are handsomely finished, but en- 
tirely unfurnished except by numerous lamps 
which are suspended on hooks in the ceilings; 
some of these lamps are half filled with olive oil 
and seem to be ready for lighting. This court 



FROM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 225 

is paved with marble, and has in the centre a 
large marble fountain similar to the ones usually 
found in mosques. Around the court are several 
white marble pillars with caps of the Corinthian 
order ; they support arches and roofs which form 
a piazza around the court, and over the en- 
trances of the surrounding twelve rooms. 

Over the walls of this piazza, there are rows 
of arabesque designs about twelve inches wide 
worked in on glazed china tiles, and apparently 
these rows of tiles have been as broad as three 
feet, but they have fallen down, and to ruin, by 
the insatiable destructiveness of time. From 
one of these rooms we found a stair-case leading to 
upper rooms ; it was about eight feet wide, and 
was paved in brightly glazed tiles of various 
colors and sizes. 

From a corner of one of these rooms we 
passed through a door that led into a passage 
about four feet wide, which ended in a kitchen 
that had in one end of it the usual cooking fur- 
nace for the use of charcoal ; from this furnace 
proceeded a curiously formed, wide chimney to 
the top of the building ; it looked as if it was 
strong enough to last another century. There 
were two other smaller kitchens connected with 

these twelve rooms. The upper parts of the 

19 



226 coos-coo-soo, oe letters 

walls of some of these rooms were curiously 
worked in plaster with ornamental cornices^ 
which looked like lace and were very beautiful. 

The floors were principally payed with slabs 
of black and white marble ; ^ome few were paved 
with Tetuan tiles. 

After winding through long narrow passages, 
and several suites of middle sized rooms^ which 
were paved with common red and green tiles, 
we suddenly and unexpectedly found ourselves 
at the entrance of a handsome, large garden. In 
it were growing many very superior fruit-trees 
and grape-vines ; over one of the room doors 
which opened into it, we saw a natural curiosity 
in the form of a fig tree about six feet high, and 
in " full bearing." This tree grew from the side of 
the wall, about midway between the top of the 
door, and the flat roof of the building. On it 
were growing some ripe figs, one of which we 
ate. The fruit trees in this garden were larger 
and finer than any we have seen in the neigh- 
borhood. The vines were trellised luxuriantly 
over neatly made arches and bowers of native 
cane. Roses were very abundant, and blooming 
in almost endless variety. They were there of 
all colors, sizes and qualities. Into this gardem 
there opened several windows of the apartments 



FEOM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 227 

above it ; they were glazed and evidently have 
been made comparatively quite recently in imi- 
tation of the Consular dwellings. The rooms to 
which these windows belonged, we were told^ 
had been used as the harem of the former Ba- 
shaw of Tangier, who at one time occupied the 
castle with his families of four wives. The 
larger rooms of this part of the castle were 
painted in modern European style, and from 
the centre of the ceiling of one of them, was 
hanging a very handsome, large chandelier, 
which no doubt had been presented to the Ba- 
shaw by one of the present Consuls. It was a 
costly and beautiful affair, but in a sad state of 
neglect, as it was covered with dust and cob- 
webs. The room of the large chandelier opened 
into a balcony, apparently suspended in the air 
overlooking a steep precipice which seemed to 
be at least two hundred feet deep, at the base of 
which were dashed, in foamy waves, the waters 
of the Atlantic, as they were entering the boun- 
daries of the Straits of Gibraltar. From this 
airy perch we enjoyed an extensive view of this, 
the opposite shore of the Straits, and the ocean. 
From these beautiful and neatly finished apart- 
ments we proceeded for some distance along 
narrow, dark, winding passages, up and down 



228 coos-coo-soo, or letters 

various narrow stair-cases. At one time we 
would enter a large room which we supposed 
would open into a suite of handsome apartments, 
but would find it to be only a solitary one. At 
another the room would open into a long, nar- 
row, winding passage, which would either end 
in a little closet, a stair-case, an open-aired ter- 
race, or a large room. 

Sometimes these long, narrow passages would 
lead to bath-rooms in which were large tanks of 
water. 

These baths were lighted from small apertures 
in the lofty ceilings above them and covered with 
thick glass. 

In one place we saw a very long passage, 
(about forty feet long,) it was so low that we 
had to walk through it bare headed, and in a 
stooping posture. 

We walked along its narrow limits very hope- 
fully, expecting it would conduct us to some- 
thing very odd, but were disappointed at finding 
it end in a plain, simple, small recess. There 
were in many of the walls marks of places 
where doors had been built up and enclosed. 
Where or to what they may have led, will be a 
secret as long as the castle remains in the hands 
of its present owners. 



FROM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 229 

In some places we were obliged to jump over 
yawning crevices in the floors, at others to 
climb up stairs where two or three steps in one 
place were crumbled to ruins, and the green 
grass on the ground far below them would be 
visible. 

Then again we would clamber over a heap of 
an old wall, fallen into a chaos of broken stones, 
mortar and lime. Often a flock of wild pigeons 
would start from their nests almost beneath our 
very feet. The wild pigeons and storks are 
without number in and about the old Castle. 
We did not see any owls, and wondered why, 
as the town is full of them. 

At one time we clambered up a wall, which 
probably had once been a side of a stair-case ; it 
was very tottering and seemed ready to crumble 
beneath our feet. From it we entered a long, 
broad room lighted only by a few apertures in 
the walls ; the floor was a common brick pave- 
ment, and the walls were of plain mortar. This 
plain, large room was surrounded by vaults or 
arches similar to those made to keep wine in. 
Over the door of one room we saw some hand- 
some ornamental work in plaster, and beyond it 
there were several small panes of glass of various 

colors. This was a beautiful work of art, and 

19* 



230 coos-coo-soO; oe lettees 

had a fine effect, surrounded as it was by so 
much ruin and rubbish. We saw also another 
garden, at one end of which were several raised 
terraces that were surrounded by seats. This 
was a quiet, cool and pleasant retreat; no doubt 
there have been many hours of social and do- 
mestic happiness enjoyed within its narrow lim- 
its, by those who have been many years within 
the still narrower homes, which are waiting for 
us all, and alas we know not how short that 
waiting may be for some of us, who are now 
dreaming of living for many future years, in 
peace and prosperity ! 

But time has flown very swiftly while I and 
my pen have been travelling with you through 
the old castle, and the midnight hour reminds 
me that it is wiser to sleep, than to write away 
the whole night. 

Yours, affectionately, 

&c., &c. 



FROM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 231 



LETTER XXXV. 

TANGIER CASTLE CONTINUED. 

Tangier, August ist, i8 — . 

My Dear Friend : 

We were conducted by our guide from 
the interior parts of the castle to an outer apart- 
ment, which proved to be the ante-room to the 
prison, and in it I was astonished to see an 
Alkaid, who a few months ago was in high favor 
with the Emperor, and appeared to be a man of 
wealth and distinction. But he has fallen — and 
is now — without being guilty of any crime, the 
inmate of a prison and in heavy irons. 

Seeing that I was greatly shocked at finding 
him in such a miserable condition, he told me to 
say "Inshaa Allah," which I did say most 
heartily. Then to console him I said, that he 
was not as badly off as were the hundreds who 
were enclosed in the dungeons. He answered, 

"Oh, I go there too, and have only been 
brought out here for an hour to get a little fresh 
air ; but oh, I wish you would write to the 
Governor, and beg him to order that I may not 



232 coos-coo-soo, or letters 

have the chain put around my neck at night ; it 
is so very painful." 

As the manacles were much larger than his 
thin, bony hands, for he is an old man, I asked 
him why he did not slip his hands out of th^m. 
To my question he answered, 

"God will take them off when he sees proper !" 

We then proceeded to the part which was 
allotted to the use of the Governor's or Empe- 
ror's horses. There were not more than six or 
eight horses in the stables at the time ; they 
^were fat and in good order 

The entrance to this part of the castle was 
guarded by a ragged sentinel, who sat cross-leg- 
ged on a goat skin. The stable is a large open 
space, surrounded by arches on all sides, which 
are supported by handsome white marble pillars. 
The horses were all fettered with palmetto straw 
rope. Around the open space and beneath the 
arches were small apartments which were the 
stalls. 

In them the horses were sheltered during the 
rainy season. They were fed on grain, dra or 
barley, which they ate from nose-bags. The 
Moorish horses are never fed from a manarer or 
rack or littered. 

In one corner stood the favorite horse of the 



FEOM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 233 

imprisoned Alkaid, feeding on dry straw. It 
was very affecting to see the poor animal sharing 
the fate of his master. In the centre of the open 
space there were two walls surrounding a very 
large cistern, which is of vast dimensions, and 
consists of several apartments. The water of 
this cistern is good and cold. On the right hand 
side of the open space was a very large and 
heavy door; we walked through it into a large 
room which may be considered the Emperor's 
armory. In one part of it we saw piled up in 
one great heap, the many gun-carriages, which 
were presented to a former Emperor of Morocco 
by Mr. Simpson, our first Consul to this country. 
They were in a state of great neglect — the wood- 
en parts were rotten and worm-eaten — the iron 
covered with rust. About the room were scat- 
tered many pieces of ancient Saracen armor, 
similar to that which was worn by the Saracens 
in the times of the crusades. This armor is very 
curious and enough to make the eyes of any an- 
tiquary twinkle with delight. In many parts 
rust and old father time had made sad havoc of 
the sturdy, hard iron, for there were many holes 
in them that were not put there in battle, but 
by the slow, sure decay of many by-gone years. 
In this room were the instruments which have 



2S4: coos-coo-soo, or letters 

been used in manufacturing his majesty's gun- 
powder. The mortars used for grinding the 
charcoal were handsome, large, marble Corinth- 
ian caps of pillars, the shafts of which are lying 
scattered about in another part of the castle. 
These pillars are said to have been a present 
from the government of Spain to this country. 

This room also had in it four very thick, heavy 
wooden boxes; they were iron-bound and about 
four feet high. In the open space near the heavy 
door there was a steep, narrow stair-case, which 
opened into an old unmounted fort, from which 
we had an excellent view of the new Tangier 
battery, on which we saw seventeen guns and 
three mortars. From this fort we clambered up 
an old wall about six feet high and found our- 
selves in a long gallery, the end of which turned 
into another. ' At one end of this second gallery 
there was a small room, and at the other a long, 
very long narrow stair-case. We ran down the 
steep, narrow steps in great glee, hoping it would 
lead us to some subterranean apartments, where 
we should meet with unheard of wonders of curi- 
osity or of wealth, but on a sudden turn at the 
foot of the stairs, we found ourselves in the pre- 
sence of the nose-bagged horses, and the ragged 
guard of the stable sitting on his old goat skin ! 



FROM TA2CGIER IN AFRICA. 235 

We then took our departure from the Imperial 
stables, and observed as we passed from them 
that their heavy doors were fastened open by a 
rusty swivel on one side and a bombshell on the 
other. Most heartily do we wish that all the 
swivels and bombshells in the whole world might 
never be used in any other manner than to set 
an open door before us in as quiet and inoffen- 
sive a way as these were doing. 

While we were in the castle we asked the 
soldier who accompanied us if he knew who 
built it. 

He said it was built by Seedy Ally, two hun- 
dred years ago. At another time another Moor 
told me that it was built by a great Bashaw, 
named Seedy Hamet, that he was a relative of 
the prophet Mohammed, and had five thousand 
horsemen in Tangier, and that his body-guard 
consisted of a thousand soldiers. He was im- 
mensely rich, and took the customs or duties on 
the merchandise of Tangier as his own, and 
never paid a copper to the Emperor. That the 
Sultan at last became jealous of his power and 
declared war against him ; he was killed in bat- 
tle and buried with his ancestors at Mistercoch, 
one hundred and fifty years ago. This castle is, 
of course, said to be inhabited by evil spirits and 



236 

to contain many millions of hidden treasures. 
In many places are to be seen in the walls and 
on the ground, the marks of persons who have 
searched for hidden money. 

At one time, as we jumped from one terrace to 
another, we heard beneath our feet a loud crash- 
ing sound ; it was caused by the inside ceiling 
having fallen down. The castle is generally 
supposed to be partly built by the ancient Ro- 
mans. 

There were in many places this word in Ara- 
bic characters, "Allah" — but I could not see any- 
thing that looked like the word Mohammed. 

We spent about six hours exploring the castle. 
Yours affectionately, 

&c., &c. 



LETTER XXXYI. 

JEWISH TOLL. MOORISH FESTIVAL. 

Tangier, August 8 th, i8 — . 

My Dear Friend : 

Hoping that by this time you have re- 
covered from the fatigue of our long ramble 
through the venerable old castle of Tangier, I 



FROM TANGIER IK AFRICA. 237 

again venture to address you with my wearisome 
coos-coo-soo dottings. 

This afternoon we went to enjoy the pleasure 
of a horseback ride on the beach. While we 
were there we saw eight Jews and four Moors 
starting on a journey to Tetuan. The Jews 
never travel anywhere in the empire of Morocco 
except under the escort of Moors. 

When they depart from one town for another 
they are obliged to pay toll to the gate-keeper of 
the town they are leaving. They never live in 
the country or villages, but always in the larger, 
w^alled towns, where they earn their living by 
speculation, commerce, or as artisans and me- 
chanics. They never become tillers of the soil, 
because they feel and realize that it is not their 
own. 

But I must return from this Jewish digression 

and inform you what we saw happen to one of 

the unfortunate Jews who were beginning their 

journey to Tetuan. This party of travellers, 

Moors and Jews, although so diverse in their 

races, habits and attire, were still more so in the 

ways and means by which they were to perform 

their wearisome journey. Two of the Moors 

were stout and able-bodied soldiers, they were 

mounted on handsome horses, the other Moors 

20 



238 coos-coo-soO; or letters 

were seated on strong, well-kept mules, and were 
furnished with palmetto straw panniers, probably 
destined to bring from Tetuan the beautiful tiles 
which are made there. Four of the Jews were 
riding miserable looking little donkeys, and the 
other four were aided only by long wooden 
staves, and were even without shoes on their 
feet. 

When they had proceeded a few rods down 
the beach towards the Tetuan road, which turns 
from it to the south-east, they were pursued and 
overtaken by an athletic and strongly-built Moor, 
who was one of the Tangier gate-keepers. He 
was in a towering passion and fiercely excited, 
saliva poured from around his chattering teeth, 
was spattered here and there upon his trembling 
beard, " his eyes wildly with phrenzy rolled," 
words of hatred and abuse flew in a vociferous 
torrent from between his ire-bequivered lips. 

As soon as he reached the Jews, he ran to a 
slightly-built and feeble looking youth, and with 
a long staflP he carried he gave the trembling 
stripling an unmerciful drubbing for having dared 
to pass the gate without paying the customary 
toll. 

Poor fellow, he suffered severely for the few 
coppers he saved. The toll was one blankeel, in 



FKOM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 239 

value not quite two cents. A blankeelis exact- 
ly the sixth part of a dime. When the Moor 
had beaten the unresisting Jew to his heart's 
content, he turned and hurried back to his post, 
as if he had performed an act that was soothingly 
satisfactory. 

The poor Jew rubbed his limbs, back and 
head, and in his agony groaned aloud ; but still, 
in spite of his pain, he took an opportunity while 
his Moorish companions were looking in another 
direction, to wink to his fellow Jews, and to 
make gestures to them expressive of the joy he 
felt at having cheated a Moor out of a blankeel, 
and better yet — had the superb satisfaction of 
knowing he had given him a great deal of 
trouble. 

Nothing can trouble a Moor so much as to be 
forced into a hurry. Should a Jew, under any 
circumstances, raise his hand to strike a Moor, 
or to offer him any resistance, the immediate 
loss of his hand would be the consequence. Thus 
ever live the Moors and the Jews, in the same 
country, under the same government, yet in con- 
stant and never ceasing antagonism. The iron 
and the clay of their two distinct natures will 
never mix in concord or peace. 

When we had ridden as far as to the river. 



240 coos-coo- soo, or letters 

we enjoyed a fine and exhilerating gallop on our 
homeward bound course. 

On approaching the town we discovered there 
was something more than common going to be 
the order of the day for some time to come — we 
were to have a public festival in the town ; there 
would be feasting, dancing, singing, music and 
warwallows beyond all computation. 

Do you wish to know how we were enabled 
to dive into futurity and foresee all these fine 
things, and what were the signs by which they 
were revealed to our knowledge? There were 
crowds of women and children standing on the 
highest part of the hill behind the town. They 
were all dressed as for an event of especial pub- 
lic interest, and they were all intently gazing 
upon the western sky, in which were lingering 
the fading rays of the already set sun. 

They were anxiously watching for the appear- 
ance of the new moon. The Moors reckon their 
time by moons, and not having any almanacs in 
common use, they never consider a month begun 
until the new moon is visible in the sky. There- 
fore, when the time of its appearance draws 
near, women dressed in their best attire, repair 
to the hill behind the town walls, where they 
can enjoy an unintercepted view of the western 



FKOM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 241 

sky. As soon as one of the women sees it, she 
utters a loud warwallow, in which she is joined 
by the others around her, then it is repeated by 
those who are standing on the house-tops in the 
town until the sound reaches the guards in the 
batteries on the front part of the town facing the 
Bay. As soon as they hear it, they fire off a 
salute of several cannons. 

Thus the event of the festival moon being 
visible, is loudly announced by the roar of can- 
nons to the distant inhabitants of the surround- 
ing villages. 

Then begin the feasting and making merry. 
Heaps of hot coos-coo-soo are devoured until the 
partakers, wearied with their prowess in this par- 
ticular pleasure, are forced to seek repose in 
sleep. 

This public announcement of the appearance 
of the new moon being made by women, is proof 
positive that the Moors believe in the immortal- 
ity of their souls. 

If they were soulless, certainly they could not 
be allowed to take such an active part in the re- 
ligious festivals of their nation. 

The present moon is the mouloud, and the one 
in which is celebrated the anniversary of the 

birth of Mohammed. The Moors have three 

20* 



242 coos-coo-soO; oe lettees 

great national festivals, the birth of Mohammed, 
the week after the end of the fast rammadan, 
and the sheep holiday. A few days previous to 
each one of these festivals, their houses are 
thoroughly cleansed and whitewashed, inside 
and out, in imitation of the Jews' preparation for 
the celebration of the passover. 

The houses being thus frequently well cleaned 
are always in a neat condition. 

As they never wear their shoes in the house, 
and never spit anywhere, their floors are pat- 
terns of tidiness which might well cast in the 
shade the much vaunted cleanly habits of our 
own country — which, alas, cannot be clean or 
decent, while its inhabitants are the slaves of 
tobacco and its many polluting consequences — 
but a truce to this juicy subject — I dare not 
trust myself to dwell upon it so near the lower 
edge of the last page of this letter, or I shall be 
compelled to prolong its lines into the midst of 
another sheet of paper, which, in mercy to your 
eyes and patience, I will not presume to do at 
present. 

Yours affectionately, 

&c., &c. 



FROM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 243 



LETTER XXXVII. 

FESTIVAL OF THE MOULOTID. A FLIGHT OF STOUKS. 

Tangier, September 6th, 1 8 — . 

My Dear Friend : 

This being the twelfth day of the moon 
mouloud the birth day festival of Mohammed 
began this morning; it is to last eight days. 
Last night the devout followers of the prophet 
spent the night in prayer, either at their own 
houses, or at the mosque, according to the dic- 
tates of their own wishes. 

At about half past three or four o'clock this 
morning a salute was fired from the battery. I 
counted ten discharges of cannon, I may have 
missed hearing some, as not being one of the 
faithful followers of his prophetship, I was not 
very wide awake at the time, and there is no use 
in asking questions of those who were, for they 
will not satisfy infidel curiosity upon such sub- 
jects, and therefore I am unable to say with cer- 
tainty how many were fired. 

From the moment the first report of the can- 
non on the battery broke the solemn silence of 
the early hour, a general firing of muskets by 



244 

men, and of warwallows by women commenced 
in every part of the town, and this deafening 
clamor and uproar was continued without ceas- 
ing for two hours. At about sunrise Moorish 
musicians began to play on their instruments in 
different parts of the town. This is the festival 
during which boys from the age of one year to 
that of five or six, are made to undergo the 
ceremony of circumcision; it is celebrated with 
great pomp and magnificence by those Moors 
who can afford to indulge in displays of gay and 
gaudy grandeur. 

The child to be circumcised is dressed in 
great splendor, and carried either on horseback, 
or in the arms of his father to the great saint 
Seedy Mohammed el Hadg; the child is followed 
on his way to* the saint house by a band of 
musicians who play a lively and joyous air ; the 
musicians are sometimes accompanied by hand- 
somely dressed boys from eight to twelve years 
of age, who wave on high, gay silk flags of bril- 
liant colors ; then the relatives and friends of 
the child's parents follow in an irregular proces- 
sion from the dwelling to the saint house, and 
then they return to the child's home, where 
there is held a feast that is enlivened during the 



FROM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 245 

whole day with musiC; dancing, warwallows and 
hand-clappings. 

We at one time saw a child borne along the 
streets in the arms of his father, who was seated 
on a handsome horse. The child was dressed in 
very rich embroidered crimson satin, and the 
blood was falling in large drops over his feet. 

The operation is performed by a Moorish bar- 
ber, with the common scissors and an applica- 
tion of balsam is used. 

In Tangier the dwelling places of the Moors, 
Jews and foreigners are all mixed together ; the 
town is not divided into different quarters. To 
day one of our Jewish neighbors had an eight days 
old heir, who according to the law of Moses was 
set apart in the rite of circumcision. It seemed 
odd enough that he a Jew, should be thus set 
apart at the same time in which the mocking 
ceremony is performed by the imitative Moham- 
medans around him. 

At seven o'clock, A. M., the beginning of the 
Jewish ceremony was announced by the loud 
warwallows of several Jewish women. The 
Moorish and Jewish warwallows, although per- 
formed in the same manner, and by the same 
means are as easily distinguished by their dif- 
ferent sounds, as are any other traits of charac- 



246 

ter, possessed by either one of the two so curious- 
ly mixed up, and yet so distinctly kept apart 
people. 

Thus it happened that although the Moorish 
warwallows were resounding from every part of 
the town, the moment the daughters of scattered 
Israel sent out upon the morning air the sound 
of their voices in prolonged warwallows of their 
own, we knew that there was to be a Jewish 
merry-making somewhere in the neighborhood, 
to add its jarring noises to the already clamorous 
hilarity by which we were surrounded. 

Presently we heard the long drawn and nasal 
chanting of a psalm in Hebrew, by which we 
were at once reminded that we had in our vicini- 
ty a newly arrived son of Judaism. 

The singing was performed by Rabbis, or Jew- 
ish Priests, and joined by the voices of all the 
male adult members of the family, and a few in- 
vited male guests. The male and female guests 
at a feast of circumcision, meet in different 
apartments until the ceremony is performed ; on 
all other occasions they mix promiscuously to- 
gether. 

The child was carried on a silk cushion from 
its mother s side in the arms of its god-mother 
to the door of the apartment, in which were as- 



FROM TANGIER IN" AFRICA. 247 

sembled the Rabbis and male visitors, where it 
was received by the god-father, and by him 
given to the operating Rabbi ; he performed the 
rite with a knife, and then returned the child 
still lying on the silk cushion to the god-father, 
who bore it to the room door, and to its god- 
mother. Then the music, feasting, dancing and 
singing continued all day and until a late hour in 
the night. 

In the room in which the male guests were at 
first asembled, there was hanging on the wall in 
a conspicuous place opposite to the entrance, a 
gaily decorated large wooden tablet, on which 
were painted in Hebrew the words of the ten 
commandments. Around this tablet were burn- 
ing several large wax candles, and over it w^as 
hanging in graceful folds a very richly em- 
broidered silk scarf. The ten commandments 
written, or painted on tablets, or parchment, are 
held in very high estimation by these Jews ; 
but their spirit and obedience are little regarded 
in the actions of their hearts and lives. 

The ground of the surrounding country is now 
very dry and parched for want of rain ; field 
vegetation is entirely dried away to stubble by 
the heat of the unclouded sun. The orianders 
which grow to a great size, very abundantly 



248 coos-coo-soo/OR letters 

along the beds of the water-courses and streams, 
are in bloom, and their beautiful red flowers are 
the only vestige of existence that is left to the 
forlorn looking landscape. In many places the 
earth is cracked open in fissures several feet 
deep, and three or four inches wide on the sur- 
face. 

About two weeks ago we walked one after- 
noon by the broad, sandy road to the garden. 
By going on this road our walk was more than 
doubled in distance; we entered the Western 
gate of our garden at about sunset, and as our 
shoes were full of sand, we sat on the well-wall 
to rid them of their uncomfortable burdens of 
African sand. While we were thus engaged we 
heard over our heads a sound that seemed like 
the roaring of a stormy sea ; on looking up we 
espied an immense flock of storks ; they were so 
far from us that they did not look larger than 
crows, and yet the sounds of their wings were so 
loud ! They were flying very rapidly towards 
the South-west ; on a sudden they stopped flying 
and soared slowly round and round in the air, 
then there appeared in sight another still larger 
flock, flying from an opposite direction, the first 
flock then flew towards them; then again sared 



FROM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 249 

and appeared to be waiting the approach of the 
latter. 

When the two flocks met they mixed together, 
then for a few moments soared in circuit still 
higher and higher, and then all flew away in a 
South-west direction. They are taking refuge 
from the long rains, which will soon visit us. 
We will miss them sadly from the walls of Tan- 
gier. 

Yours truly, 

&c., &c. 



LETTER XXXYIII. 

A DAY AT THE LAKES. 

Tangier, September 1 2th, 1 8-^— . 

My Dear Friend : 

The other day some English gentlemen 
came from Gibraltar to visit for a few days at 
Tangier. As their company was a rare treat to 
us exiles from all civilized society, far, far away 
from dear ones at home, their arrival was hailed 
by us with real good will, and to celebrate the 
joyful event, Mr. H., the British Consul, resolved 



250 coos-coo-soO; or letters 

to make up a pic-nic party to go to a place 
about twelve miles distant, that is known by the 
name of the Lakes. 

The visitors, some of the inmates of the Brit- 
ish Consulate, all the gentlemen and all the male 
servants of our house, went there in the after- 
noon, with the tents and baggage to be used on 
the occasion, to spend the night in a wild boar 
hunt, and to have our breakfast ready for us on 
our arrival the next morning, which we expected 
would take place at about eight o'clock. I was 
therefore left entirely alone at home with the 
female servants, and as they were Jewesses, 
they of course were to spend the night as usual 
at their own homes. I did not feel at all afraid 
as I had two sagacious watch-dogs in the house, 
but the kind Mr. H. made such an ado about my 
being alone, that to appease him I was obhged 
to agree to have a guard sent for. 

Unfortunately for me, I was more afraid of 
the guard than I was of being alone, but — my 
fears were not consulted and my word was given 
that a guard should be placed in the house before 
bed time. We had an old Moorish soldier, 
named Gayaty, an Eisawy, who was in the habit 
of being hired about the house on extra occasions, 
engaged to saddle my horse the next morning, 



FEOM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 251 

and to attend me to the Lakes. To save the 
trouble of sending to the Governor for another 
extra guard, and also to keep my promise to Mr. 
H., Gayaty was sent for to come and guard the 
house during the night. Mr. H. was not aware 
that I had employed an Eisawy for this purpose 
or he would have been, as I was, rather suspi- 
cious about the propriety of doing so. 

However, I was accustomed to his character, 
(which morally was very good, notwithstanding 
his sect,) and could understand his language, in 
short, I was acquainted with him and felt that 
since I must have a guard, I would rather have 
him, though an Eisawy, than a stranger from the 
Governor. As he was used to the ways of the 
house, as soon as he came the Jewesses departed, 
then Gayaty the Eisawy and the two dogs were 
the sole inhabitants of the house for the night. 

What the Eisawys are I will inform you here- 
after, and will now proceed with the account of 
our excursion to the Lakes. 

I remained sitting in the parlor engaged in 
writing until a late hour, then started to go to 
rest; when I came within sight of my room 
door I was startled to find the old Eisawy 
stretched at full length on the bare floor across 
the threshold fast asleep. But though sleeping, 



252 coos-coO'SOO; or letters 

he heard sharply, for he instantly jumped to his 
feet, drew his long, bright cimeter from his side 
and exclaimed " skoon?" in a deep, low, guttural 
tone that echoed and re-echoed through the 
lonely house with fearfully sounding earnestness. 
I said to him, 

"Gayaty, why don't you go and sleep in 
Hamet's bed, and not lie here in the passage, on 
the cold floor ? " 

He answered, " I came here to guard you, I 
will sleep at your door and no where else ! " 

I saw that commands and arguments would 
be in vain, so I passed him and allowed him to 
have his hard choice of a sleeping place. 

He was a fearful looking old object, when as 
he then was without a turban, and in his savage 
looking night . gear, fearful looking enough I 
thought, to scare even the dogs, but they seem- 
ed to treat him with kind regard, in spite of his 
bald head, shaggy, long beard, and ferocious, 
nightly aspect; still as he was an Eisawy, which 
they could not know, I knew there was no tell- 
ing what he might take it into his head to do, if 
he should be visited by one of his fanatical 
phrensies. Still I believed his natural disposi- 
tion to be very humane, and trusting that I was 
protected by an all-wise Heavenly Father, even 



FROM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 253 

from the power of the Eisawy's fancies, I was 
soon in a sound and refreshing sleep. 

At half-past three o'clock the next morning. 
Seedy Gayaty knocked at my door and told me 
the hour. As it had been arranged that we were 
to start at four o'clock, my preparations for the 
early morning's ride were soon begun. 

While they were progressing I heard the sav- 
age looking Eisawy talking very vehemently in 
another part of the house. I called to him and 
asked to whom he was talking, but he continued 
his harsh, guttural strains, without deigning to 
answer my question ; at last he said, with a queer 
kind of a chuckle or smothered laugh, 

" Fire, yes, fire, fire, that will do ! " 

I then concluded that the old creature was 
getting one of his spells on him, and as it was 
still almost as dark as night, I felt uneasy, and 
resolved not to unlock my own door while he 
was in the house, and if he should attempt to 
break it open, I would jump out of the window, 
which fortunately, was not very high from the 
open street. 

I then requested him to go and prepare our 
horses for our departure. By the time he had 
them ready at the door, the family of the Brit- 



21* 



254 coos-coo-soo, on letters 

ish Consul called *to meet me, and we started off 
on our ride to the Lakes. 

Amid the charms of the pure, bracing, morn- 
ing air, the faint streak of light which so deli- 
cately tinted the sky above the eastern horizon, 
and the still bright morning-star, my mind was 
speedily restored to its accustomed calm. All 
these objects were so lovely, cheering and de- 
lightful, that they soon made me forget my fears 
of Eisawyism and every thing else in this world 
that was disagreeable or painful. Love to and 
adoration of the beneficent Creator of all these 
beauties, swallowed up every earthly sensation* 

The ride to the Lakes was very fine and we 
enjoyed it exceedingly; arrived there, we found 
the over^night party had things very comfort- 
ably arranged fbr our breakfast. 

There were two tents on the border of the 
Lakes. On the ground beneath one of them was 
spread out a new and very thick Moorish carpet ; 
on the carpet was extended a fine, linen table- 
cloth ; spread around the table-cloth were twenty- 
four plates, beside each of which were a spoon, 
knife, fork and napkin ; at one end were three 
sets of cups and saucers, for tea, coffee and 
chocolate. 

The breakfast was very nicely served, and 



FROM TAIlCGlEn IN AFUIOA. 255 

consisted of many delicacies, which had been 
brought from Tangier, and of some wild game, 
that had been procured in the chase by the 
hunters, and cooked according to their epicurean 
directions. 

But good as the whole affair was, we con- 
cluded that the very best part of it was the keen 
appetite we had obtained by our long ride. 

Our dinner was still more luxurious than our 
breakfast. The following is a sketch of what 
was spread before us in the tent for our second 
meal at the Lakes : 



n3 
O to 

Pi 



FIRST COURSE. SECOND COURSE. 

Roast Beef. Chicken Pie. 



Boiled Beef. Boiled Ham, ^ t^ 

aa S 

Two Boiled Fowls. Two S « 



Two Boiled Tongues. ^ 



Fried Brains and 
Tripe. 



Boiled Fish. g^ 

Two Roasted Fowls. 

THIRD COURSE. 
Plum Pudding. Rice Pudding. Custards. Pancakes. 

FOURTH COURSE. 
Raisins. Almonds. Walnuts. Pears. Figs. Oranges. 

FIFTH COURSE. 

Coffee, Cordials and Tea. / 

Cakes and Jellies. 

During the interval between the two meals, 
we sat under the shade of the cork trees, and 



256 coos-coo-soO; oe lettees 

had a very pleasant chat with some three or four 
gentlemen of the party; the others all left us^ 
the tents^and the lakes^as soon as they were 
done eating their breakfast. They went on 
another hunt ; they had been disappointed the 
night before, by not having seen any wild boar, 
and they seemed quite unwilling to give up their 
search after that fierce and savage animal. 

At about half-past two o'clock one of the rov- 
ing hunters came to our sitting party with the 
report that a vessel had run ashore at Cape 
Spartel, and was firing guns of distress. Then, 
on listening, we distinctly heard the guns, but 
the greater part of us could not believe that a 
vessol would, or even could if she tried, run 
ashore in such good weather, and with the wind 
blowing off the land. 

Presently the other gentlemen of the party, 
who had been away with their guns and their 
dogs made their appearance. They were covered 
with a thick coat of mud, where or how they 
could have managed to procure so much wet mud 
at this dry season and in this parched land, was 
as great a mystery as always are some other 
things about other people's habits, which we 
could never comprehend. 

Then there was among them a good deal of 



FilOM TAKGIEE IN AFKICA. 257 

commotion about how they should manage to 
put themselves in presentable condition in pre- 
paration for taking their seats at the table-cloth, 
for which they inwardly were quite ready. 

Some of them had had forethought enough to 
have brought with them changes of raiment, and 
as the majority of these prudent ones did not 
need them, they loaned them to the ones who 
did. Two of the mud-be-covered hunters were 
so hardly driven by force of circumstances, that 
they were under the necessity of borrowing ge- 
labs from two of our Moorish attendants. We 
did not envy them their obligation to put on 
such garments, but the laughter and merriment 
it produced were worth being envied by any 
dyspeptic who has not an appetite for his dinner. 
But ah-— the bell rings for ours, and I must 
therefore conclude in haste. 

Yours, affectionately, 

&c., &c. 



258 coos-coo-soO; oe letters 



LETTER XXXIX. 

A DAT AT THE LAKES CONTINUED. 

Tangier, September 14th, 18 — . 

My Dear Friend : 

As soon as we arose from our dinner in 
the tent on the border of the lakes, one of the 
Consuls said that he felt troubled in his mind 
about those guns which we had heard firing. 

They had ceased for some time, but he still 
felt anxious to know why they had been fired. 

He also said he had a great mind to take our 
head guard with him and ride over to Cape 
Spartel to see if there was a vessel there in dis- 
tress. 

We were all in an agony of fear at the mere 
idea of being left there, in the wild African 
woods, without the protection of the head guard, 
upon whom rested all the responsibility of our 
safety from the half-savage robbers, who were 
said to inhabit the neighborhood, and we tried 
very hard to persuade him not to leave us, or if 
he did so, not to deprive us of the head guard. 

But the more we persuaded, the fuller and 



FROM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 259 

more earnestly he became impressed with the 
idea that there were perhaps some of his fellow 
countrymen at Cape Spartel who needed the 
protection of himself and our head guard, to save 
them from being drowned or from the worse fate 
of being taken into captivity by some wandering 
tribe of Arabian robbers, who would take them 
into the Interior, where they would be sold into 
life-long slavery. He declared that his feelings 
for their condition were so strongly apprehensive, 
that he was imperatively called by duty to go 
forward and prevent by his presence and good 
management, a vast amount of suffering. At 
last he started off, and left with us only the sub- 
ordinate men of the guard, that had been pro- 
vided for our safety by the Governor of Tan- 
gier. 

Like a great many other conscientious people, 
the good Consul ran away from his real duties, 
in the pursuit of others which were imaginary, 
and existed only in his vivid and over-active 
fancy, or else he wished to have the pleasure of 
a solitary ride, free from the restraint of any 
company, except that of a safe and reliable 
guard. 

When the gentlemen of our party found that 
he and the main guard were really gone, they 



260 

concluded to give up any more hunting for the 
present, and while the servants were striking the 
tents and packing up the innumerable amount of 
baggage, they all joined us under the shade of 
the cork trees. While we were sitting there, 
talking very quietly, and feeling rather unpleas- 
antly unprotected, for although there were many 
of us in number, we knew that we lacked official 
authority, which would be requisite to our safety 
in case of an attack from robbers or other 
enemies of the Governor. 

As we were sitting there and looking upon the 
smooth water of the lake before us, we saw the 
reeds which bordered it on the farthest side from 
us moving to and fro, as if something that was 
both broad and long, was swimming or wading 
among them. .We began to fear that an enter- 
prising and travelled crocodile had some how 
found his way here from the rivers of South 
Africa, and we began to question whether or not 
the law of the land, in which we were dwelling, 
would allow us to fight it in self-defence, which 
it certainly would not permit us to do with some 
of its favorite animals. But while these thoughts 
and questions were passing through our minds, 
the something, whatever it was, kept moving on 
through the water towards us, and after a little 



FROM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 261 

while it came out from the shelter of the reeds, 
and then proceeded rapidly through the smooth 
water towards the spot on which we were sitting. 
It was about seven feet long, and about two feet 
and a half wide, of a light, pale green color. 
There was something at one end of it that looked 
like a great bulky head, and on the other end 
there was another article about ten feet long that 
looked as if it might be a tail to wind around its 
victims and draw them into the water. We had 
never seen anything of the kind before, and did 
not know what to make of it, but as it came on 
apace, nearer and nearer, we soon saw that it 
resembled a huge cradle more than it did a croc- 
odile. But there — my sheet of letter paper is 
full, and I will not write another word to-night 
more than 

Yours, affectionately, 

&c., &c. 



22 



262 coos-coo-soO; ok letteks 



LETTER XL. 

A SNAIL VENDER. 

Tangier, September 28 th, 18 — . 

My Deak Friend : 

While we were sitting on the border of 
the lake watching the something — we could not 
tell what, we felt greatly relieved when we found 
that it was not a crocodile, but so much like a 
a cradle that our fears of it were all lost in won- 
dering what it could be. 

When it came quite near the shore of the lake, 
the long article at one end which looked like a 
tail was drawn up out of the water, and we saw 
that the end of it was forked and pronged like a 
rake, then we saw emerging — slowly and lazily 
from the middle of the huge cradle, the form of 
a savage looking man, a wild man of the water 
he looked like with his bare bald head and 
couple of tattered rags, which were pinned to- 
gether over his shoulders with aloe thorns, and 
bound around his waist with a cord of palmetto 
straw. 

He carried something in his hand which 
proved to be a small satchel-basket, very rudely 



FROM TANGIER IN" AFRICA. 263 

made of palmetto straw. In the basket were a 
great many snail and muscle shells, with the 
snails and muscles all alive and moving in them. 
The poor man had spent the whole day in gath- 
ering them, and he wanted us to buy them for 
our supper, that he might be able to procure 
some bread for him and his little ones, in his 
rough home in a hovel somewhere in the neigh- 
borhood. 

But unfortunately for him our fancy did not 
coincide with his, and we did not wish to pur- 
chase the fruits of his day's labor. However to 
make amends for his disappointment one of the 
gentlemen gave him some money, which sent 
him on his way rejoicing, and perhaps he felt 
rich enough to eat his snails and muscles with 
his brown bread for his own supper. 

These small, very small snails live upon some 
of the plants of this country in immense numbers. 

They are eaten by the Moors and considered 
very nice. I have never had curiosity enough 
to taste either them or their muscles ; their coos- 
coo-soo is good enough for me, their snails and 
muscles and some other things they eat are be- 
yond my ambition. 

We examined the snail-vender's boat and 
found it to be very ingeniously made of palmetto 



264: coos-coo-soo, oe letteks 

straw and water reeds, pitched with something 
that looked like tar, or pitch and mud combined. 

By the time we were through with our ex- 
amination of this rare and curious boat, our ser- 
vants had our baggage and saddles in travelling 
order, and we took our departure in safety from 
the Cork Wood Lakes. When we had gone half 
way home, we met the Consul who had gone to 
Cape Spartel to find that there was no ship 
there in distress, and that the guns we had 
heard were fired by some villagers in honor of 
the mouloud. 

When we arrived at Tangier it was ten o'clock 
at night, and the town gates were shut, barred, 
bolted and locked, and we had to wait outside of 
them upon the weary backs of our weary horses, 
the wearisome, and worrisome space of a whole 
hour, before they were opened by the wrathful 
and indignant gate-keepers, who devoutly wished 
our race might be scattered. 

This is the last day of the mouloud festival, 
and it is being celebrated with much enthusiasm. 

The streets have been crowded all day with 
showy and noisy processions going to and from 
the saint house, outside of the town walls. 

To-morrow the town will fall back into its 
dead silence, and we will return to our "still 



FROM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 265 

life/' that makes us so mucli like the inhabitants 
of a city of the dead, so dull and quiet will all 
things be until the next Jewish or Moorish fes- 
tival will awaken the numerous sounds of hilari- 
ty and shrillness, which always accompany 
their feasts and celebrations. 

This death-like silence perhaps may be broken 
when we least expect it, by the startling and 
frightful wail of the friends of some poor mortal 
Jew or Moor, who will have ceased to breathe 
the air of this transitory world. 

Yours affectionately, 
&c., &c. 



LETTER XLI. 

THE EISAWYS. 

Tangier, September 30th., 18 — . 

My Dear Friend : 

The Eisawy sect, or order, or society, are 
a set of fanatics who meet together and have 
secret proceedings among themselves, which 
they will not reveal to any person who does not 
join them, on which account they are sometimes 
called by our family the " Barb ary free-masons." 

22* 



266 coos-coo-soo, or letters 

They have other peculiarities which they take 
care to make publicly known, to the dread and 
dismay of their neighbors, particularly to the 
poor Jews, who run away and hide from them 
as they would from savage beasts of prey. 

After holding one of their meetings, they will 
sometimes parade through the streets, either in 
parties, pairs or singly, and will be seen to be in 
a high state of wild and ungovernable frenzy. 
This frenzy always takes the voracious form, 
and they will sometimes kill and devour on the 
spot whatever they can lay hold of. They are 
peculiarly fond of drinking blood and eating raw 
flesh. It is related that one day a party of them 
who were passing through the market place, 
seized a living donkey, tore him into pieces with 
their hands and ate him all up, skin and every 
other part included. This is probably an exag- 
geration, but I do know upon very respectable 
and reliable authority, that one of them once en- 
tered the shop of a Jew who dealt in edibles, 
and ate up the contents, which were worth about 
sixty dollars. Soaps and candles, a few of 
which were among the articles, did not escape 
him, but were as greedily devoured as were the 
dates, butter, honey, figs, cakes and other good 
things of the small stock. He did not stop eat- 



FEOM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 267 

ing until the shelves^ boxes and drawers of the 
whole shop were entirely empty. The owner 
meanwhile had escaped to his distant dwelling, 
and hidden himself, greatly fearing that he might 
share the fate of his merchandise. 

The next day the Jew made complaint to the 
GoYernor of Tangier, and wanted to be paid for 
his loss. As there were many eye-witnesses, 
Jews and Moors, to prove the truth of the poor 
man's story, the trespassing Eisawy was brought 
into the Governor's presence. 

His Excellency decided that if he had done 
the feat in malice or ill will to the Jew, he should 
be made to pay him for the loss of his goods. 
But if he did it under the influence of a spirit, 
who had bestowed on him the power of eating 
by the ton, he was unaccountable for his actions, 
and must not be subject to any punishment for 
them, no matter what they might be. The Gov- 
ernor, moreover said, that he would prove the 
man's state by giving him a tub full of coos-coo- 
soo and a whole sheep, which he ordered to be 
prepared and brought before him as quickly as 
possible. In due course of time the savory dish 
in its gigantic dimensions was, in the presence of 
the assembled spectators, placed before the vora- 
cious eater, and in an incredibly short space of 



268 coos-coo-soo, oe lettees 

time^ all swallowed. Instead of seeming to be sat- 
isfied with his bountiful meal^ he turned from the 
empty tub, and began to eat the grass that was 
growing in the corners of the Court of Justice, 

The Eisawywas then pronounced by the Gov- 
ernor to be supernaturally governed by a spirit, 
over which he had no control, and was left to 
depart in peace. 

The Jew had to submit to the loss ; for him 
there was no appeal from the Governor's deci- 
sion. 

It was therefore no wonder that the Eisawys 
were feared and much dreaded. But faithful old 
Gayaty never did us any harm. He was after- 
wards hired by the month in our house, and a 
better or more useful servant we never had; 
thus he proved that even among the Eisawys 
there may be good and honest men. 

Another remarkable peculiarity of these peo- 
ple among whom my lot is cast, is that they 
never build either barns or stables. For the 
latter when required, some room which was 
originally built for the use of the human family 
is appropriated to that of the domestic animals. 
Barns for the storing of grain they never erect. 
They never make hay but feed their cattle on 
pasture until it is all parched up by the dry 



FKOM TANGIEE IN AFEICA. 269 

Summer, but even then, when it is parched up, 
they still daily send their animals out to the 
fields, and in the evening they give them a mess 
of some kind of grain in a nose-bag. The dra is 
the grain most commonly used for cattle when 
pasture fails. 

Yours affectionately, 

&c., &c. 



LETTEE XLII. 

MOORISH GRANAEIES. MTJIEY ABDRAHAMAN. 

Tangier, October 4th, 1 8 — . 

My Dear Friend : 

Dra is a very cheap grain, and is not 
much esteemed as bread stuff; the very poor 
people grind and make bread of it, which is for 
sale in the market ; it is very dark and looks 
like bran bread. The dra when growing looks 
more like our broom corn than anything else I 
can think of comparing it to, but it is lower than 
the broom corn, and the grain or seeds grow in 
shorter and thicker clusters. Instead of build- 
ing barns for the storage of their grain, the 



270 

Moors dig in the ground and form pits or exca- 
vations, which they call matamores. 

There are about a dozen of these grain-pits 
outside of the Tangier walls, and I have often 
noticed that the Jews and Moors carefully avoid 
walking over the mounds of earth which mark 
their entrance. 

The pits are thickly lined with straw and 
matting before the grain is poured into them, 
and after it is in it is covered with thick 
layers of straw, over which is tightly placed a 
thin stone slab, large enough to cover the whole 
aperture of the pit. Over this stone the earth 
is piled in a mound to prevent the rain from 
washing its way into the pit. 

These subterranean granaries are always on a 
place where the ground is sloping, for the pur- 
pose of being better protected from dampness. 
All kinds of grain it is said will be well pre- 
served in these pits several years, free from in- 
jury by mould or dampness. 

It is also stated that some of these pits in 
other parts of the Empire are large enough to 
hold a hundred bushels. 

Wheat or any kind of bread-stuff is held in 
high estimation by both Moors and Jews in this 
land. Bread is never thrown away. If by ac- 



FEOM TANGIEE IN AFEIOA. 271 

cident a piece should fall upon the ground or in 
any way become "unclean/' it is picked up, 
reverently kissed, and put on the fire in a solemn 
and devout manner; while doing so the person if 
of a devotional disposition, will pray that he or 
she may never know the want of bread. 

The present Emperor of Morocco is called 
Muley Abdrahaman Ben Hishcom ; Muley means 
Prince, Royal Prince or Sovereign. He ascended 
the throne in the year 1822 ; his reign has been 
unusually long. During the greater part of it, 
he has been busily employed by keeping in sub- 
jection the inhabitants of some of his provinces, 
but upon the whole his government has been 
comparatively quiet. He has several times had 
difficulties wdth divers European powers, but 
eventually, by good management, has made out 
to live until the present year 1856, without hav- 
ing come to actual rupture with any one of them. 
He is in great awe of the English and the French, 
and it is to be feared that sooner or later his peo- 
ple will fall into the hands of one or the other of 
these two nations. 

He is an absolute despot. All the land and 
bouses of the whole Empire are his, and he can 
demand possession of them for his own use 
whenever he sees fit to do so. 



272 coos-coo-soo, oe letters 

The dog is in great demand by all classes of 
the community as a safe-guard, but he is seldom 
if ever petted and loved as the horse is ; the 
horse and camel are the pet animals of the land. 
There are some few domestic cats, but their num- 
ber compared to that of the dogs is very small. 

In the villages the dogs are reared in incredi- 
bly large numbers, and besides them they are 
thickly filled with flocks of chickens and storks. 

The dogs, chickens and horses in bad weather 
share the shelter of the one room of the hut in 
common with its master and his family. During 
the dry seasons the storks peacefully lodge in 
their nests on the tops of the low huts, only a 
few feet in elevation above the level of the nume- 
rous dogs and children, yet they are unmolested 
and undisturbed by either dog or child. Often 
while riding along past these villages and seeing 
these immense hordes of bipeds and quadrupeds, 
all so lovingly and so thickly herding together 
in such large numbers, we have wondered in 
amazement where their simple and ignorant 
owners could procure for them the food they 
must get some how, or they would not be there 
to prove it. 

Yours affectionately, 

&c., &c. 



FROM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 273 



LETTER XLIII. 

MOORISH SNUFF TAKING. 

Tangier, October 8th, i8 — . 

My Dear Friend : 

The storks are highly venerated by the 
Moors, and are never allowed to be incommoded 
in any way, because they destroy many reptiles 
and insects, which but for them would increase 
to a troublesome extent, and then the Moors 
would have to go to work and devise some plan 
by which to be rid of them, so that the Moors 
may be said to love the storks because they are 
labor-saving machines — they heartily detest any 
kind of labor. Fowls are abundant and very 
cheap. They are generally hatched as in Egypt, 
by artificial heat; eggs are also very plentifully 
supplied' at low prices, so that if you wish to 
live cheap on luxuries, you must come to Tan- 
gier. 

One commendable habit the Moors have in 
which they show better taste than the inhabi- 
tants of other lands do — they never smoke or 

chew tobacco ! 

23 



274 

Some few of them, so few that they must be 
considered the exceptions, chew the leaves of a 
native plant called keef, it very much resembles 
hemp. It grows wild here and I believe is never 
cultivated by the Moors. The leaves of this 
plant are sometimes dried and pulverized, then 
taken in doses of two or three spoonsful in 
sweetened water. In this form it is called 
hassesha, and is very injurious to the human 
system; its effects are similar to intoxication 
from strong drink. 

Its use is disreputable among the better class 
of the inhabitants, and its victims are much des- 
pised. But the Moors make very free use of 
tobacco in the form of snufP, and in this way 
consume immense quantities. There is a large 
snuff mill at Tetuan, and from there it is carried 
to Tangier and the other towns of the Empire. 

The taking of a heap of snuff, is by them 
made quite an affair of time and ceremony — a 
pinch it cannot be called, and therefore being at 
a loss for a proper term, it must be named a heap 
— they do not snuff, snuff, snuff all the time as 
the snuffers with us do, but when they conclude 
to indulge their nasal organs with this treat of a 
heap, they go regularly to work about it, with 



FROM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 275 

almost as much pomp and parade as they would 
to eat a meal ! 

They first sit down, then roll up their sleeves, 
adjust their turbans, gird up their flowing man- 
tles more closely beneath their waist-bands, and 
put them into unfall-ofF-able order, then they 
take their snufF boxes from their pockets, and 
slowly pour from them as much snuff as they 
can heap up on the back part of the hand which 
is between the joint of the wrist and the inner 
joint of the thumb. 

Then with much effort they draw it up, and 
pack it away, in first one nostril, then in the 
other, until the whole heap is conveyed from 
the hand to the nose, and as they wind up the 
whole ceremony by bringing it to a conclusion, 
they very reverently say, 

" Besm Allah wu Mohammed razul Allah." 

" In the name of God, and of Mohammed the 
Prophet of God." 

This is unquestionably a broad and flagrant 
violation of the third commandment, yet many 
of them do it with the most scrupulous and con- 
scientious feelings of devotion to their Maker as 
far as their knowledge of him will allow them to 
possess ! 

This morning we were treated with a refresh- 



276 coos-coo-soo, or letters 

ing novelty in the shape of a heavy rain, which 
is the first we have had for several long months. 

How reanimating it was ! The very sight of 
a cloud seemed to be a blessing ! At noon the 
wind changed, the sky cleared and the sun re- 
sumed for a few days more his reign over us. 
After dinner we walked to the garden ; how re- 
vived all nature seemed. 

Beneath the shelter of the orange trees, were 
still lingering in dew-like moisture the remains 
of the morning shower. The soil of the roads 
was beaten down to a smooth level, and the 
dust was nicely settled ; our walk was the most 
pleasant one we have had for some time. 

In several gardens which we passed on our 
way out, we saw many busy groups of Jewish 
men and boys, engaged in cutting down cane 
stalks. When we were on our way home, we 
saw the marks on the sand of the road which 
were left by bundles of fresh cane stalks, having 
been drawn over it towards the town. When 
we afterwards went to our house-top, to enjoy 
for a few moments a twilight promenade, we 
saw in all directions around us thick, high 
bunches of green cane-leaves peeping gracefully 
over the walls of the Jews' houses. 

To-morrow will be Friday, and at sunset will 



FROM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 277 

commence their feast of Tabernacles, and they 
will live in those cane built arbors for eight days 
in commemoration of their having spent forty 
years in the wilderness. 

Yours, affectionately, 

&c., &c. 



LETTEH XLiy. 

JEWISH FESTIVAL. LADY JOHN FRANKLIN. A MOORISH 
CHILD'S FUNERAL. 

Tangier, October 9th, 1 8 — . 

My Dear Friend : 

Last Saturday the Jews fasted all day 
and went barefoot. JSTot a Jew in the whole 
town that we saw had a shoe on his or her foot, 
except one who is rich and wears the European 
costume ; he wore a pair of thin cloth slippers. 
We saw some rich, delicate and superbly dressed 
Jewesses going about the streets with their bare 
feet. 

That fast was the most solemn one of their 
year, and was kept in commemoration of the 
destruction of the temple at Jerusalem. 

To-night at sun-set every Jewish household 

23* 



278 coos-coo-soo, or letters 

killed a chicken. In those families who could 
afford it, there was a chicken killed for each 
male member. At about seven o'clock we called 
on one of our Jewish neighbors to take a near 
view of his booth of canes. We found the whole 
family standing around their supper table, which 
was placed in the centre of the booth. It was 
covered with a white table cloth, in the middle 
stood a deep, large dish of fricassee chickens, 
around it were scattered some round, hard biscuits. 
The male members were chanting a psalm 
and waving their bodies to and fro, from side to 
side, as some children will do when they are 
learning their lessons. The females did not join 
in the chanting, although they did in the wav- 
ing of their bodies, in a manner which proved 
their hearts to be in union if their tongues were 
not with the passing ceremony. When they 
were through with the psalm, the father of the 
family poured out a large glass tumbler full of 
wine, and placed it before him on the table, then 
raising his hands he chanted a long benediction. 
The chanting was all in the Hebrew language. 
After the benediction he drank a little of the 
wine and handed it to his wife, she partook of 
it and passed it to the oldest child, after which 
it was handed round the table, until all the 



FEOM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 279 

family had partaken of it. They then remained 
standing and ate the chickens and biscuits. 

During the eight days of the feast of taber- 
nacles the Jews will not work any more than is 
positively necessary. These Jewish festivals, 
occurring as they do so frequently, are very in- 
convenient to the Europeans who reside at Tan- 
gier, as, with few exceptions, their house ser- 
vants are Jews and Jewesses. 

During their festivals they indulge very freely 
in feasting on dainties, for which it would puzzle 
our most experienced confectioners to find names, 
but their flavor and taste prevent the existence 
of any difficulty in the way of finding ready con- 
sumers for them. On these joyous occasions the 
Jews are exceedingly liberal in their habit of 
sending portions and donations of these delica- 
cies to each other, and sometimes this liberality 
will be extended to their European friends and 
neighbors. 

Sometime ago, while a long, westerly wind 
was prevailing, and our two small courier boats, 
which attempt and sometimes succeed in making 
weekly trips between this port and Gibraltar, 
were prevented coming across on account of the 
head wind, we were one morning very much 
surprised to see a wee little thing of a boat that 



280 coos-coo-soo, ob letters 

was even smaller than the smallest sized fishing 
boat, row into our Bay. Seeing the boat itself 
was not so very strange, but by examining it 
with our spy-glass, we were exceedingly surprised 
to find sitting in her, two gentlemen and two 
ladies, whom we knew at first sight, were either 
English or American. After they landed we 
found they were Dr, and Mrs. C, of Boston, who 
were recently married, and were travelling about 
among different nations on their bridal tour. If 
their honeymoon was as long as their journey, 
they must be as they appeared to us — a very 
happy couple. The other lady was Lady John 
Franklin, and the gentleman was a relative, 
whose name I have forgotten. We had a very 
pleasant walk to our garden in their company, 
after which Lady Franklin accompanied us home 
to see our collection of Moorish curiosities, in 
which she manifested a very pleased interest. 
We met her again in the evening at the British 
Consulate, where we all spent the evening. She 
is a very interesting and amiable lady, of very 
gentle and prepossessing manners. Her complex- 
ion is fair and countenance pleasant ; she seemed 
to be very warmly kind and social in her feelings. 
Travelling to her was apparently as easy, if 
not more, so, than staying at home is to some 



FROM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 281 

ladies that we know of. On the next day she 
started for Tetuan by land, and was, I presume, 
the first English lady who ever ventured to go 
through the dangers and fatigues of the incon- 
venient trip. She intended to travel along the 
African shore of the Mediterranean sea. 

This afternoon as we were walking along the 
road that runs through the Moorish cemetery, 
we met two Moors walking very fast ; of course 
their unusual speed excited our curiosity, and 
we, looking at them inquiringly, found that one 
of them was carrying on his arms a large white 
bundle, which seemed as if it might contain a goat 
or sheep. Wondering what it could be, we stop- 
ped and asked them what they were carrying 
with so much haste. They answered, 

"A dead child which we are going to bury." 
We then examined the bundle more closely, 
and found that the flesh of the child was still 
quite warm and so limber that it bent down 
between the man's arms, just as a living one 
would do. It was carefully and neatly wrapped 
in new white muslin, with a handsome new silk 
handkerchief, of bright red and white stripes, 
tied on its head, then a white haik, enveloped in 
massy folds, the whole body, face and head. It 
was buried without a coffin, except a loose board 



282 coos-coo-soO; oe letteks 

under and another above it. The grave was 
very shallow, and soon filled by the two men, 
without any ceremony and without the presence 
of any other person. It was apparently about 
five or six years old. If you want a Moor to 
hurry send him to bury the dead, it is the only 
occupation at which he will hurry. 

We continued our walk and returned to the 
town through the castle-gate \ when we passed 
the court in which the Governor daily sits to 
administer justice, we saw lying on the ground 
seven panniers ready for a journey. In each 
pannier were two large boxes filled with money, 
ready to be sent to the Emperor. They were 
guarded by six Moorish soldiers sitting near 
them, and ten others were lolling on mats within 
sight. Near by stood several fine looking horses, 
already saddled and bridled ; the largest, a beau- 
tiful grey, was pointed out to us as the one that 
belonged to "the man who makes the Sultan's 
bed." This honored official had been sent to 
convey in safety the boxes of money to his mas- 
ter; but did he hasten to begin his journey ? No, 
not even seven mules' burden of gold and silver 
treasure would induce him to hurry; nothing 
but death could have that effect on a Moor. 
Yours affectionately, &c., &c. 



FKOM TANGIER IN AFEICA. 283 



LETTER XLY. 

CANES AND PALMETTOS. THE DATE SELLER. PLOUGHING. 
PRAYING FOR RAIN. 

Tangier, October 28th, 18 — . 

My Dear Friend : 

Canes and palmetto bushes ! what would 
the people of this land do without them ? I 
verily believe I could spend a week writing of 
the different uses that are made of these two 
beautiful plants. Of the canes they build ar- 
bors, make hedges, snuff boxes, pens, (the only 
kind they use for writing,) pen cases, broom 
handles, basket frames, musical instruments, 
walking staves and many, man}^ other useful 
things. Of the palmetto bushes they make 
cords, ropes, all kinds and sizes of bags, baskets 
and satchels, belts, girdles, mule and donkey 
bridles, panniers, mats for beds, seats and floor 
covers, brooms for sweeping, scrubbing and 
vjhitewasMng — they never use any other for any 
purpose, and many other things. They would 
miss either one of these useful plants, as much as 
the Laplander would his reindeer, the Arab his 
camel, or the Yankee his newspaper or printing 



284 coos-coo-soO; or letters 

press. The cane grows about twelve or fifteen 
feet high, and when once planted it spreads very 
fast. To walk between two of these hedges 
with their long graceful leaves rustling and 
meeting in a green arch over one's head is very 
pleasant and beautiful. 

To-day we had within our house a genuine 
Arab from the Interior. It is seldom that one 
of his race will enter a Consular house. The 
love of gain induced him to enter our contami- 
nating infidel presence ; he came to sell dates. 
He brought his weights ands cales with him ; the 
pans of his scales were two flat baskets made of 
palmetto straw ; the strings on which they hung 
were made of the same material, and the beam 
was a stick of olive wood; his weights were com- 
mon rough stojies. 

The fields in this country are never manured, 
and when prepared for cultivation are simply 
scraped over on the surface by a limb of a tree, 
with a point of iron fixed at one end, and this 
rude instrument they call a plough ! It is 
pushed by a man, and drawn by almost any 
kind of domestic animal which its owner may 
happen to be master of. The ground is cul- 
tivated in very small patches, and when by over 
usage they begin to yield scantily, they are 



FROM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 285 

abandoned for a few years, while others are 
used, and this no doubt is the reason why they 
are not fenced. 

During the last two weeks the weather has 
been beautifully fine and clear; the showers 
which fell early in the month have " replenished 
the earth" most wonderfully, and it has yielded 
forth a burst of fresh, new, delightful yegetation, 
that makes it look as if it has come fresh from 
the hand of the Greater ! I do not wonder at 
the Moor's ardor and devotion in his love and 
praise of the God that made him. With such a 
flower-besprinkled earth, such a food-teeming 
soil beneath his feet, such a pure, invigorating 
air around, and such a bright sky above him, 
how can he, in spite of his national and intellec- 
tual debasement, be any other than a sincere and 
devout worshipper of the one true God. that 
his mind could be illuminated by reading the 
Scriptures ! 

But this weather, though so beautiful, does not 
satisfy the people here; the burden of their 
wishes is continually more rain, more rain ! This 
voracious thirsting after more rain, will be in 
vogue until next Spring. This afternoon, while 
walking on the house-top, we saw a flock of Moor- 
ish little boys beyond the town walls, capering 

24 



286 coos-coo-soO; or letters 

and jumping up, and throwing their arms over 
their heads, while their faces were turned up- 
wards, in a way which made them look as if 
they had suddenly become a set of juvenile Eis- 
awys, and still as they capered and danced, and 
jumped with their faces upward, they sang, 
shouted and screamed at the top of their voices, 
in a most wonderful manner a chorus of unearth- 
ly sounds ; the only word of which we could un- 
derstand was rain ! 

We could not imagine what they w^ere at, for 
we plainly saw they were too much in earnest to 
be playing, but then our dinner bell rang, and 
amid the more interesting duties of the table, we 
soon forgot their strange behaviour. Dinner 
being over we started on our ride, and it hap- 
pened that we were attended by old Gayaty, 
who is more communicable about his people's 
customs than the other soldiers are. When we 
approached the town-gates we again heard the 
childrens' voices ring out on the air their strange 
chorus, but as soon as we went out beyond the 
walls they ceased, then again when sheltered 
from their sight by the walls of the Swedish 
garden, they began to repeat their song; we 
asked our guard what they were doing ; he said, 
" They are praying for rain, and they will do so 



FROM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 287 

every afternoon until it rains ; they are hired 
by the inhabitants, who believe that the prayers 
of innocent children will be more effectual than 
their own. They always stop if a Jew or Chris- 
tian appears in sight." 

Yours sincerely, 

&c., &c. 



LETTER XLYI. 

CONSULAE CEMETERY. 

Tangier, November 24th, 18 — . 

My Dear Friend : 

In spite of the daily prayers of the " in- 
nocent children," who "cry aloud and spare not" 
their besieging clamor, the clouds are heedless of 
their petitions, and the sun is left to beam his 
unveiled beauties over us as if he were shining 
in May instead of November. 

Our rides and walks are very delightful, and 
surrounded by an air so completely filled with 
the perfume of flowers, and the earth is so richly 
carpeted with their variegated hues, that we 
almost feel as if we must be living in a modern 
paradise, instead of on the northern shore of 
Africa — that land so dreaded by those who 
know it not — so little kuDwn and so much mis- 



288 GOOS-GOO-SOO; OR LETTERS 

represented. This morning we took a walk to 
the Swedish Consul's garden ; it is a beautiful 
spot and cultivated with the most elaborate and 
expensive care by its owner, who superintends 
it with his own personal attention. It costs him 
as much as his family does. 

The arbors and grape vine frames, which are 
very numerous, are made of green iron rods, and 
are brought from Sweden. The ornaments and 
plan of the whole affair, are in a similarly ex- 
pensive and costly style. 

Adjoining one side of this beautiful garden is 
the Consular burying ground. It is in very neat 
and good order, which is, I believe, owing to the 
care and attention bestowed on it mainly by the 
Swedish Consul. Some of the graves are 
mounded up vei;y high with earth, and then firmly 
covered with strong, durable and very pretty 
sea shells. We saw the grave of Miss A. 0. ; 
there is erected over it a handsome marble 
monument, very white and very neat, on which 
are inscribed the following words : 
A. O. 

Elle etait de ce monde 

Oil toutes les belles choses 
Ont le pire destin, 
Et, Rose elle a vecu ce que vivent 
Les Roses, I'espace d'un matin. 



FKOM TANGIER IN AFEICA. 289 

Alas for poor humanity ! How often do we 
see dearly loved ones^ crushed in their hopes, 
driven, broken-hearted, to the silent guardianship 
of the grave; and then, over their insensible re- 
mains are placed the beauty of sentiment, which 
had it been shown them while living, those 
graves might be still undug. 

Yours truly, 

&c., &c. 



LETTER XLVII. 

A CHRISTMAS IN AFRICA. 

Tangier, December 28th, 18 — . 

My Dear Friend : 

From the first day of December until 

three days ago, the rain poured down in torrents, 

but Christmas morning was ushered in with a 

cloudless sky and we have had good weather 

ever since, which we cannot expect to last very 

long. 

We took a walk to the garden on Christmas 

day and picked some ripe blackberries we found 

growing in the hedge on the road-side. The 

geranium hedges inside of the garden were in 

24* 



290 

fall bloom ; the bright colors of their gay 
flowers contrasted beautifully with the green of 
their leaves ; the jessamine and orange blossoms 
scented the air with their lovely fragrance ; the 
ever busy, ever buzzing wings of the honey bees 
murmured a soft and gentle melody that was 
decidedly in union with the feelings of our 
grateful hearts as we looked upon the rich 
beauties of nature, so abundantly flourishing 
around us. These happy sentiments were in- 
creased a hundred fold when we remembered that 
this harmony of fair sights and pleasant sounds 
was only a faint reflection of the mercy and 
goodness of the great I AM, who so loved the 
world as to bestow on it, not only these fair 
blessings of the material creation, but hesitated 
not to crown the towering heights of his love to 
us by giving us the incomprehensibly valuable 
gift ot his well beloved Son. 

On Christmas-eve we were invited to a soiree 
at the house of one of the Consuls from the 
south of Europe ; as his wife is a Spanish lady, 
the entertainment was conducted a la Espanola. 
These consular soirees are in general very dull, 
so dull that fortunately they are not oft repeated; 
but at this one there were several visitors from 
Europe who made it lively enough. It did not 



FEOM TANGIEE IK AFKICA. 291 

vary much from other Christmas-eve parties, 
except that being composed as it was of persons 
from so many different nations, it formed a kind 
of a museum of human curiosities. There were 
the members of the Enghsh Consul's family of 
whom we feel we dare not write, because we love 
them all too dearly. There was a Danish gen- 
tleman who was as fair as a lilly and almost as 
beautiful in his quiet and gentle manners. There 
was a Swedish gentleman who was so ardent in 
character and feeling that I could never see him 
without thinking of an enraged turkey ; his hair 
turned gray before he was twenty-two. Let this 
be a caution to others to keep calm, unless they 
admire gray hair and furrowed brows. There 
was a Mr. F., a Frenchman, who was eighty-six 
years of age ; he was very deaf, but he was as 
gay as the youngest person present. There was 
a Br» P.^ from Naples, who was as dignified as 
an iceberg ; if he and the Swede had changed 
natures or nations, I would not have wondered 
at them as I did. There was a Sardinian who 
was sprightly, gay and witty. There was a 
Spaniard who was grave and sedate, but very 
attentive to the ladies. There was a Swiss lady 
who was surprised to find that Americans could 
have white skins. She said, as she laughed gaily 



292 coos-coo-soo, or letters 

at her ignorance and the confession she made of 
it, that she always thought the Americans had 
red skins. 

There were two French ladies who were a 
contrast to each other. One was as lively as a 
flash of lightning, and the other as dignified as 
a fair Bostonian. There was a pretty little 
Spanish brunette, who seemed only to know 
how to laugh and sing. There was a fair East 
Indian Creole, who looked as much like an angel 
as human nature would let her ; she was mar- 
ried to an Irish gentleman, who was as far from 
the angelic as she was near it. There were two 
fat Spanish friars, with their cowls, crucifixes 
and rosaries, who enjoyed the festivities as much 
as any one. And so on to the end of my paper, 
which being full I must stop. 

Yours truly, 

&c., &c. 



FKOM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 293 



LETTER XLYIII. 

NEW YEAR'S DAY. DEPARTURE FROM TANGIER. 

Tangier, January 8 th, 1 8—*-. 

My Dear Friend : 

Soon after breakfast on New Year's day 
we heard the strangest kind of music and sing- 
ing. It was neither wedding, festival nor funer- 
al noise, w^hich then assailed our ears ; it was 
something entirely new, and therefore a treat 
because new. The instrumental part was Moor- 
ish, but the vocal was Spanish. We hurried to 
the front windows to see what it could be, and 
found on the street before the house about 
twenty stout Jewish Porters dancing in a circle, 
loudly singing as they danced to the sound of 
several Moorish instruments of music : 

" Buenos aiios nuevos, anos mejorados al se- 
nor Consul Americano aiios mejorados." 

This jargon was, in plain English, 

" Good new years and better years to the 
American Consul." 

They danced with an activity that must have 
tired them more than a day's hard work could do. 



294 coos-coo-soo, or letters 

When completely out of breath from their ex- 
traordinary exertions, and we were nearly deaf- 
ened by their noise, they stopped to rest, the 
Consul threw to them a handful of small silver 
coins, which probably amounted in value to the 
sum of two or three dollars. They gathered 
the money up, then went shouting down the 
street, their loud wishes for good years to the 
American Consul. If the amount of the sum 
given had not satisfied them, they Avould at once 
have turned their good wishes to very frightful- 
ly bad ones ; as they will do if they are not well 
paid for their laborious congratulations. 

They were not gone long before another set 
came, and then another, so that the novelty of 
the affair was worn to weariness, but at last they 
all came and went, and we were left in peace- 
many dollars poorer than we were when we arose. 

Then the cards of the different Consuls, with 
the compliments of the season began to be hand- 
ed in. The receiving and sending out these 
civil little messengers, occupied all the morn- 
ing very pleasantly. 

The evening we spent at the British Consul- 
ate, where we were entertained with some very 
good music on the piano, violin and guitar, be- 



FROM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 295 

sides some very pleasant conversation with our 
friendly neighbors, and a few visitors from Eu- 
rope. 

The next morning we went to the beach to 
witness the embarkation of some of our friends 
for Gibraltar. The act of departing from this 
African port is about as curious as many other 
things that are to be wondered at in it. The 
lady passengers generally sit on chairs, and are 
carried on board between two porters ; the gen- 
tlemen generally ride on the shoulders of one 
without the chair. These porters are a noisy 
and avaricious set of men. They go in bands of 
about twenty men in each band, one of whom is 
the leader and director of their movements. But 
on the occasion of carrying passengers on board, 
every man is at liberty to make all the noise he 
can, and to enforce his offered services as loudly 
as he pleases. 

The stranger who does not understand their 
language, looks on the hub-bub in amazement, 
and wonders the while what it can be about. 

In addition to the porters who are striving to 
secure the job of carrying him, there will be, very 
likely, a dozen more who claim having rendered 
him some service, if not on that day, on some 



296 coos-coo-soo, ob lettees 

other one, all about which he has long since for- 
gotten, and they will be as clamorously demand- 
ing rewards for those forgotten services, as will 
be their fellows in their offers to render him 
fresh ones. 

Added to the porters there will probably be a 
flock of Moorish boys crowding around him on 
all sides anxious to have a near view of the for- 
eign infidel, to have the pleasure of counting his 
buttons — and coppers too, if he will have the 
goodness to cast some into their ever ready 
hands, to receive a parting gift. Then when he 
is almost in despair, and begins to think that 
between the hordes of overgrown Jews, and 
undergrown Moors, he will surely be trampled 
or smothered to death ; the upper gate-keeper, 
the captain of the port, or some one of the Cus- 
tom house officers will take compassion on him, 
and with his long wooden staff with many wild 
looking gestures, and as many frantic-like grim- 
aces, in loud angry tones he will vociferate a 
volley of commands to the boys, while he attacks 
them savagely with blows from his staff until 
they scamper in all directions. At last some- 
how — the frightened stranger cannot tell how — 
the noise, uproar and confusion prevent his 



FROM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 297 

knowinghow—but somehow he is raised to the top 
of a great tall Jew's shoulders, and borne through 
the water, mid-thigh deep, and the next moment 
he feels himself pitched into the boat, with about 
as much ceremony as if he might be a bale of 
cotton, or a box of nails, and then, in the twink- 
ling of an eye, some three or four Jews, all 
dressed and looking exactly alike, will be peer- 
ing over the side of the boat — all vociferously 
demanding to be paid for having carried him, so 
nicely and so drily, to his new quarters — he 
looks at them all, but cannot tell which one did 
carry him, and to be rid of them he pays them all, 
and they go away rejoicing in having cheated a 
Christian. He sees them depart with a thank- 
ful feeling, for having escaped from them with 
his life, and resolves never again to visit Tan- 
gier, if he can help it. But he is not yet done 
with these fierce looking barbarians ; they mean 
to give him one more fright before they will 
allow him to depart in peace. He and the pa- 
trone of the vessel in which his journey up the 
Straits is to be made, are no sooner on board 
than he sees two small boats row^ out from the 
shore towards him. They are filled with many 
ferocious looking Moors, who are noisily haran- 
guing each other with loud words, and a multi- 

25 



298 coos-coo-soo, ok lettees 

tude of violent gestures. The stranger becomes 
fearfully alarmed, and thinks there must be some- 
thing terrible going to occur ; but after awhile 
he sees that the angry looking men raise the 
anchors^ and deposit them on board the sailing 
vessel, then their labor being done, they quietly 
return to the shore. 

As soon as our friends were afloat, the flags 
of several Consuls were raised in compliment to 
them, and to cheer them on their way home- 
ward bound. Ordinarily when the Consular 
'flags are raised on similar occasions, they are 
kept flying until sunset. But this afternoon at 
about four o'clock they were all low^ered to half- 
mast, on account of the death of Mr. 0., who 
has never been w^ell since the loss of his daugh- 
ter. A skilful physician from England, who is 
here on a visit, attended him, and has said he 
died from ossification of the heart. 

Is not his case a sad warning to us all, not to 
grieve unreasonably over the sorrows which 
may be thrown in our way, as we pass along 
through our mortal life to the higher one which 
is eternal, and which we all hope will be passed 
in heaven ? Ah, if one half the time, thought 
iind attention were spent in striving to reach 
heaven, which are fruitlessly squandered upon 



FROM TANGIER IN AFRICA. 299 

the petty griefs of earth, and their corroding, 
often fatally destructive cares, few of us would 
be disappointed, in our hopes of reaching that 
blessed haven of never ending rest and happi- 
ness. 

Yours, truly, 

&c., &;c. 



THE END. 



[i v;;j,,M8^ni 



